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May I suggest that burrs will be minimised if you cut on the flank with the compound slide set to the thread angle?John
Cut the lead screw first, and before cutting the lead screw, also make the blank for the tap at the same time. IE the final tap. You can measure the thread diameter with wires etc, unless you are buying acme 20tpi threading inserts that are the full form. You can keep threading until you get to the measured OD.Making series taps, so ones that are the same but just smaller on the over all dimensions help to get a really nice neat thread form as well.After heat treatment the tap will be ever so slightly larger in diameter, and will make a really neat nut to lead screw. On the leadscrew, just deburr and put a small corner break on the outer edges of the thread form. But not on the tap. Leave the tap outer edges sharp.Neil
I always try and have the follower on the fresh cut material. But it is a 2 way thing. The chips can easily get in the way.Its a pain, but running a vacuum cleaner to draw away the chips works really well. I put my compound on an angle, Normally 30 deg, so that the value on the cross slide, now becomes the diameter of the cut. But it gets worse as you have to reset or bring into the job the steady. I find that the Myford travelling steady often just gets in the way. Sometimes it is also easier to cut a longer blank, to give room for the tools etc, and then set up and cut the excess off later whenthe end detail is being finished,It is small jobs like this that I think I should make up a roller box.But like you have just persevered and made do with what was available at the time.Neil
Well done Dave. Hope the boss appreciates all the effort that went into it!!Bill
I"m done!
Looks good Dave!Dave