Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal engine

[Brian Rupnow]

I drilled a 7/16"hole thru so it would be about 0.060" shy of the journal, then sawed out the bit on the side away from the journal.

[Herk]

4 cylinder Willys/Jeep engines used bolt-on counterweights from late WWII through end of production in 70's.

[Brian Rupnow]

This morning we have a finished one piece crankshaft. It looks good, and has minimal run-out. I'm not a big fan of turning between centers, but for pieces like this crankshaft it is really the best way.

[Brian Rupnow]

4 cylinder Willys/Jeep engines used bolt-on counterweights from late WWII through end of production in 70's.

Thanks Herk--I've got it sorted now. Each counterweight will be held in place by one socket head capscrew. The counterbored hole for the capscrew will have a brass plug Loctited into it to hide the hole.

[Brian Rupnow]

Drove 185 Km up north to see my 98 year old mother today. She was ill around Christmas time, but is up and about and doing much better now. My metal supplier was supposed to be sawing off two pieces of 5" diameter cold rolled for me today to make flywheels from, but he never got to it. Ah POOP!!!--That's okay. I have material to make a connecting rod and piston over the weekend.

[Brian Rupnow]

And now you know how I spent my Saturday morning. There is nothing really difficult about counterweights, but there is a lot of fussy set up. They look nice in my opinion, and they clear everything when the crankshaft is rotated.

[Brian Rupnow]

Not a whole lot to show today. I had to drive down to Orangeville with my pickup truck and move some furniture for one of my kids. When I got home this afternoon I decided I should do something, so the engine now has an ignition cam and the large o-ring pulley that fits on the crankshaft to drive the cooling fan. I haven't put the groove into the o-ring pulley yet, because I don't have anything to bolt it to, to mount it in the lathe. Once I get the flywheel for that side done, I will drill and tap the holes in one side of the hub, mount the pulley, and then turn the groove.

[Art K]

Looking good Brian.
Art

[Roger B]

Only just caught up with this build, excellent progress     

I have used bolted on balance weights on my last two engines.

[Brian Rupnow]

If someone told me they spent a whole day machining a con rod, I would accuse them of being a slacker. However--I spent from 10:00 this morning until 5:00 this evening  making this one from bar stock. Why so long?--Jeez, I don't know, but it did. Maybe I'm slowing down in my old age.

[b.lindsey]

It's really progressing well Brian. I like the look of the counterweights too especially done in brass!!

Bill

[Brian Rupnow]

Today has been declared "Flywheel Day". I have two slices of 5" diameter cold rolled which cost me $25 in total. there is going to be a ton of machining in these, so I expect tomorrow and possibly the next day also to be "flywheel days".

[Brian Rupnow]

Thank you Bill. I'm always glad to know someone is watching.---Brian

[Brian Rupnow]

This is the first set-up for machining. The entire face has been machined to take off 0.030" because the pieces are cut 13/16" wide and I want the finished flywheel to be 3/4". the center hole has been drilled and reamed to finished size. The cavity in the face has been machined to full depth closest to the hub using a 0.120" wide cut-off tool. This is a time consuming operation, as you have to plunge 0.010", then traverse until the slot is about 0.400" wide, and keep repeating that. The slot is made 0.400" wide to allow my smallest brazed carbide boring bar to enter the slot. I will show it in the next post. I have lightly machined what will be the outer limits of the recess in the side, just to give me a visual when I begin to use the boring bar.
The outside diameter of the flywheel hasn't been touched yet. The cut off tool has been ground to have some of the "heel" removed so it doesn't rub on the side of the flywheel when taking the plunge cuts. So far, it is the only tool I have used.

[Brian Rupnow]

The second machining step involves using a brazed carbide boring bar mounted in the toolpost. I find that what works best for me is running the lathe about 170 rpm and advancing the tool into the pre-made slot about 0.010" at a time, then cranking out towards yourself until the tool reaches the maximum diameter that you want the cavity to be. Every time I do this I vow that I'm going to make an adjustable stop so that I don't have to watch the dro so closely.  After the boring tool had reached the bottom of the slot, I removed it and did a clean-up pass with a HSS tool to remove any ridges. Then I used strips of 180 and 250 grit garnet paper (which I buy on a roll) to clean up my tool marks a little more. This side is finished now, so I can flip the flywheel around and repeat this on the other side. The o.d. of the flywheel hasn't been touched yet.