Author Topic: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)  (Read 24869 times)

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #90 on: February 26, 2019, 12:35:49 AM »
Wow.. I'd never have thought of that. Could be what happened I guess.

Tricks of the trade as well!

Offline steamer

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #91 on: February 26, 2019, 12:39:40 AM »
Well...I got the opportunity to tell you because John Klunk   ( yeah that was his real name  Native American, and one of the best Manufacturing Engineers at Heald machine) taught me.     Each one teach one.

Oh and with the paper trick...run the reamer through without it first obviously....the paper is just a little "push"..

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #92 on: February 26, 2019, 12:44:49 AM »
Makes sense all the same.

My main bearing (unlike the flywheel) was too tight on the shaft at first. I just ran the same reamer through it a couple of times more and now it's fine.

I haven't used reamers very much in the past, but it seems they're like everything else - they have a 'feel' to them that you have to learn...


Offline steamer

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #93 on: February 26, 2019, 12:49:01 AM »
You should try a D bit or a tool makers reamer.    They work fantastic.   Very predictable.

And if you make them, they're cheap as dirt!

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #94 on: February 26, 2019, 12:57:05 AM »
OK - will keep in mind for the future.

 :ThumbsUp:

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #95 on: February 26, 2019, 11:05:59 PM »
More work on the flywheel today. First, I turned off the protruding section of the bush that I glued in last night with 'Interseals Loctite', and turned down the boss to make it a bit smaller.

Next, a flat was milled on the shaft to provide a positive location for a grub screw, and the conical end of an M4 grub screw was ground off (using my new vintage hand vice for the first time  :) ) to form a flat end to bear against the flat on the shaft. This did not add any appreciable wobble and the wheel feels rock solid on the shaft.

The flywheel and shaft assembly was held in the lathe with an ER-32 collet chuck in the headstock and a live centre at the other end:



The turning commenced with some chatter at first, but this reduced with the diameter, which I turned down to 55mm. This is 5mm wider than the plans call for, because the original by Steve is a solid disc, whereas mine has some detailing which removes mass, the extra diameter being intended to compensate for this.

The outer aspect and sides of the rim posed few problems and soon ran true, but the recesses were tricky and there was a slight wobble on the inner rim on each side. This is where 'wet and dry' sandpaper and a spot of cutting oil came into their own. I worked away at the recesses for quite some time with this and it occurred to me how valuable an adjunct to turning tools abrasives are. There are still a couple of marks which run out of true and I may go back and  fix these later but overall the wheel is good and as far as I can see the wheel and shaft assembly is sound and runs true. My intention is to never take the flywheel off the shaft again unless I have to.

Next, over to the mill and rotary table dividing setup to make a six-hole pitch circle:



... and the flywheel / shaft assembly more or less complete (with bearing):



At this stage I'm quite happy with It. Both ends of the shaft will be shortened but the end you can see will be left sticking out a bit because I've a notion of putting a pulley on it...

I also honed the cylinder this evening, using two 12mm 'Flex-Hones' (120 grit then 240). These are imported from the USA and not easy to find here. They're damn expensive but I just decided to go for it instead of the split dowel method as sometimes time is more valuable than money. They left the recommended cross-hatched pattern on the inside of the cylinder. No photos of this, as they were all blurry.


Offline b.lindsey

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #96 on: February 26, 2019, 11:11:07 PM »
Very nice Gary. Flywheel run-out can be annoying, but sounds like you have it sorted out well!!

Bill

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #97 on: February 26, 2019, 11:14:53 PM »
Cheers Bill.

Prevention is better than cure, I reckon, though sorting out the inner rim was a bit of a mission. A wobbly flywheel would drive me crazy though!

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #98 on: February 26, 2019, 11:21:05 PM »
I hear ya Gary. A bit on the inner rim isn't nearly as visible though, but the main thing is you are happy with it.

Bill

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #99 on: February 26, 2019, 11:41:42 PM »
Happy enough for now, Bill.

If the inner rim bugs me over time I'll go back to it...

Thanks for your interest.

 :ThumbsUp:

Offline bent

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #100 on: February 27, 2019, 04:24:15 PM »
Dunno why the brush hones are expensive overseas - $20 for typical sub-inch sizes here, and available in all kinds of grit sizes and materials (aluminum oxide is a preferred grit for brass/bronze/aluminum over the more common silicon carbide hones).  If you pay substantially more than that for a 12mm hone, we should set up an import business and make a killing.  The shop I work for will hone/deburr about a thousand parts before the hones see any significant wear, so we consider them pretty cheap tool for what they do.

Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #101 on: February 27, 2019, 09:51:15 PM »
Hi -

I paid $82 worth of British pounds for two brushes (including postage and packing).

I found that hardly anyone over here sells them, so those who do can charge what they like.

 ::)

Offline Gas_mantle

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #102 on: March 03, 2019, 11:00:45 AM »
Gary, the Flex hones are relatively easy to buy in the UK in a 12mm size, not sure how good they are though ?

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/gunson-77075-3-piece-flexible-honing-brush-se/


Offline gary.a.ayres

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #103 on: March 03, 2019, 11:16:35 AM »
Damn! I searched, but only found the more expensive ones that I bought. Somehow managed to miss these. Whether they are as good, who knows, but at the price I'd have bought them and saved myself fifty quid. And it's not like I'll be using them much because my future engines will be bigger. Maybe for spool valve cylinders though I suppose...

Offline Gas_mantle

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Re: A Beginner's First Engine (Single-acting Oscillator)
« Reply #104 on: March 03, 2019, 11:23:17 AM »
Damn! I searched, but only found the more expensive ones that I bought. Somehow managed to miss these. Whether they are as good, who knows, but at the price I'd have bought them and saved myself fifty quid. And it's not like I'll be using them much because my future engines will be bigger. Maybe for spool valve cylinders though I suppose...

Ebay has quite a few also  :)

On a slightly different note, I recently ordered the new Sealey Tools catalogue, it's free for the asking on their website. It arrived yesterday - all 1200 pages of it - The only snag is there are no prices in it. Definately worth a few seconds to email them for a copy though.

 

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