Author Topic: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine  (Read 3715 times)

Online steamer

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #30 on: February 16, 2019, 12:01:09 AM »
The master at work......beautiful George!

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Online b.lindsey

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #31 on: February 16, 2019, 12:53:32 AM »
Beautiful George!!!

Bill

Online Dave Otto

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2019, 01:13:55 AM »
Beautiful (tiny) crankshaft George.
Very nice!

Dave

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #33 on: February 16, 2019, 03:44:24 PM »
Hi Pete,
Here's a picture of the bifurcated tool that I use for crankshafts. It started out as a 1/2 high speed lathe tool bit. (a lot of grinding) I have used cutoff blades but they don't seem to have the rigidity when cutting out that far. You have to make sure the end is square to the sides. I ground the bit the way I wanted it then using a Dremel and a cut-off type disc I notched the end. I then broke the corners. The inside corners don't need to have a perfect radius, just the outside ones. These get honed with a diamond honing stick. You want to make sure that you leave a little bit of flat on the end.
When setting up to use it it's best to run an indicator across the tip to make sure that it's parallel to the lathe axis. This will insure that the overlapping cut is smooth.
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #34 on: February 16, 2019, 03:46:00 PM »
Hi Chris,
The finish is just from fine emery cloth. I lay a piece on a large flat file and sand the sides and around the radiused ends.
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline crueby

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #35 on: February 16, 2019, 03:49:26 PM »
Hi Chris,
The finish is just from fine emery cloth. I lay a piece on a large flat file and sand the sides and around the radiused ends.
Looks great, have to try that on mine...

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #36 on: February 16, 2019, 03:55:09 PM »
I'm working on the decorative lattice work that goes between the 2 angled uprights.
I'm using a piece of 1/4 x 4.00" 360 brass. The piece is only .093 thick but trying to work with anything thinner to start with poses it's own problems.
I cleaned up the two rolled ends so the plate would sit square in the vise. I then took a clean-up cut on both sides. From my drawing I center drilled all the center locations and drilled out the corners of the mating arcs (.093 dia.)
The rotary table was set up and the center indicated. The plate was mounted with a piece of paper between it and the table surface. This gives a little more friction to insure that the part doesn't move when cutting.
My rotary table is 8.00" and years ago I had a job that was 7.00" diameter so I made some long T-nuts to clamp the job. I put a spacer between the clamp and the T-nut and tighten the bolt. It kind of acts like a clamp.
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #37 on: February 16, 2019, 03:59:51 PM »
I turned up a piece of round stock with a 60 degree tip on it. I put this in my tool holder and with the rotary table on center I move the plate and run the spindle down to locate the center drilled hole. The part is then clamped tight. For the ends of the lattice work there needs to be square cuts so the finished edge on the plate was indicated and the rotary table set to -0-.
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #38 on: February 16, 2019, 04:07:00 PM »
Here are some progress shots cutting the arcs.
I'm going down .083 on the outside shapes and .096 on the inside. When this side is finished the plate will be put in the vise and milled down until the part ends up .093 thick. The centers will break out but there will be a .010 connecting flange all around the outside. I will then cut the part free from the plate and file the thin flange left from the machining.
The last picture shows one side profiled. One more to go. It might be a tiny engine but the work is still the same or in some cases more complicated because of fixturing.
gbritnell
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Offline crueby

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #39 on: February 16, 2019, 04:07:57 PM »
Clever use of the long t nuts to extend the clamps - on my Sherline table the 4-jaw chuck extends so far to the edge that the hold-down clamps are off the rim, have to make up some like that to cure the problem!

 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline 10KPete

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #40 on: February 16, 2019, 05:18:54 PM »
Thank you for showing the bifurcated tool, George. It's close to what I had imagined but nicer. I can see how it would make it much easier to reach in and still get a good finish.

Pete
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Online steamer

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #41 on: February 16, 2019, 06:33:38 PM »
I have a stick of raw T nuts for the Sherline I made but never diced.....and they never will be  :lolb:


Always amazing George.....

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!

Offline Ramon

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #42 on: February 16, 2019, 07:52:04 PM »
That's some really nice R/T work George - love that idea of the extended T nuts too  :ThumbsUp:

'keep 'er coming', great to see :)

Tug
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Offline gbritnell

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #43 on: February 18, 2019, 03:09:10 PM »
I cut all the profile shapes then took the rotary table off and cleaned up the mill. Put the vise back on and indicated it square. I gave myself guide lines on the back of the brass plate with a fine sharpie marker then clamped it in the vase. I went down the required depth to make the part .093 thick.
I cut the center section first so the deeper center areas would fall out the went around the outside cutting to the marker lines. I then took the part to the bandsaw and cut the shapes free from the stock.
The first picture shows the parts cut free. The second shows the part trimmed with diagonal cutters, removing the .010 fin. The last picture shows the part with the radii filed on all the edges and polished with brass polish. Buffing would make it really smooth but working with small parts like that it's too easy to have the buffer cut into the metal giving an irregular edge to everything.
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Online steamer

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Re: Maudslay Marine Steam Engine
« Reply #44 on: February 18, 2019, 03:35:40 PM »
In WR Smiths books, he uses cork blocks and emery to get a polished face, but crisp corners working all the way down to past 1000 grit, and then uses Rubin-brite metal polish and flannel.....

That frame looks just like one of his clock frames. 

Coming along great George.... :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:

Dave
"Mister M'Andrew, don't you think steam spoils romance at sea?"
Damned ijjit!