AOG’s Stuart 10V

[AOG]

I got some time to work on this engine this weekend. My 7 BA screws arrived so I set up and drilled the main bearings.



Then they were reamed to size.



Then a quick fit check using the stock that will become the crankshaft.



On Saturday afternoon my new standard arrived. I spent some time cleaning it up with files and my belt sander. then I trued up the feet.



Since I don’t have a faceplate for my lathe I moved the standard over to the mill and brought it to height.



It’s hard to see in the picture but the outer edges are quite hard. Next I set up the boring head to bore the center hole. My bench mill isn’t the most rigid thing in the world so lots and lots of light cuts were the name of the game.



I stoped 5 thousandths undersized to allow for reaming. (Pin gauges are your friends)



Since I had the boring head set up I reconfigured and brought the outside to dimension.



This has been one of those shop sessions where you spend a lot of time but you don’t see much visible progress. In any case, that’s it for this update.

Till next time

Tony


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[Twizseven]

Know that feeling. After today’s efforts on the cylinder studs on mine 10v resurrection.

Colin

[AOG]

It was a fairly productive weekend. The first thing I did was to ream the standard to final dimension.



I was going to do the bolt circle int that setup but I realized the standard was clocked slightly clockwise. Rather than measuring and adjusting,I rebuilt the setup with some pins to clock the part the way I wanted and drilled the holes.



The standard was flipped over and the mounting feet drilled.



That completes the standard so I started the crankshaft. The crank webs were cut to size, glued together and milled to shape.



Naturally when I went to drill the holes the glue bond broke. I rigged up some stops and drilled he crank webs individually.



Next shoulders were turned on the crank pin. I also center drilled the end of the crankshaft for decorative purposes. Then the crankshaft was assembled on a surface plate.




After the loctite cured I drilled the assembly for pinning.



I used some 1/16 inch drill rod as pins to pin the crankshaft.



That’s all I can do until the loctite cures so I’m calling it a session.

Till next time

Tony


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[AOG]

This weekend I finished the crankshaft. The pins were cut short and filed flush. Then the shaft was cut in between the webs and the ends filed flush. That left me with one completed crankshaft.



Next I started the cylinder. The flash was filed off. Then the ends and valve face were flattened on the belt sander. Then I faced one end in the four jaw to make it flat. The part was flipped and the end taken down to within 10 thousandths of final dimension for that side.



Then the center was bored out and the last 10 thousandths were taken off the end with the boring bar to ensure squareness. I ended up with some bell mouthing on the ends of the bore so I came out a few thousandths oversized when I cleaned it up.




Then the part was flipped and placed on a mandrel. The end was turned down to final dimension.



While the part was still on the mandrel I transferred it to a collet block and milled the port face to dimension.




I then set up to mill the first end port when I botched the tool offset. Thankfully I didn’t go to deep but I took that as a sign to call it a day. I mixed up some JB weld and took the opportunity to do a test fit of what I’ve made so far. I’ll end this with a family shot of the test fit.



till next time.

Tony


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[Don1966]

Looking good Tony nice results......



 
Don

[AOG]

Well I’m back after a small break for carpal tunnel surgery. I’m cleared back into the shop but I’m still not back to 100% yet so I’m moving very slowly. Let’s get caught up from my last update. After the JB weld set I placed the cylinder back on the mandrel and faced off the excess JB weld.



Next the part was placed on the mill and the port recess milled.



While I was centered up I drilled the mounting holes for the cover.



The part was flipped and both operations repeated on the other side. Then came the operation I dread the most. Drilling the passages to the ports. (I have destroyed more cylinders doing this task than I would care to think about). Using angle blocks I set the cylinder to a 25 degree angle and made the initial cut with an end mill. This helps keep things from wandering. Then I finished with a twist drill.



Both sides went well enough so I will take it. Since I am still moving very slowly I will wait until I have enough material before I post again.

Till next time.

Tony


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