Stuart No 1

[Jo]

I was thinking something like an oil filled radiator or a night storage heater. If you have it under where you work you will have a nice warm spot in your workshop 

Jo

[john mills]

Nice to see your progress it looks great coming together .
while you have low temperature America with -30  here in melbourne it has mostly been +35 even 42C too hot
to do much. 

[bent]

More kibbutzing.  Looking good for both engines, though I'm a bit confused by the bolt pattern on Eric's bottom...er cover .  It looks like there is a single countersunk screw that goes under the standard, to bolt the cover to the cylinder - are there then two holes to be tapped on either side of the countersunk hole, to hold the cylinder/cover assembly to the cast standard/valve guide?

[Jo]

The two tapped holes are for studs to hold the cylinder Assy onto the Standard 

As Eric pointed out to me earlier neither of us have added the flat area or the stud holes for the valve rod guide... yet  .

Jo

[Roger B]

Coming along well    In the cylinder boring pictures is that a DTI in a QCTP holder in the background? Was the 1 on the gland plate cast in?

[Jo]

Morning Roger  ,

Yes Mr Silky was using that DTI in his tool post to centre up something and has not given it back yet 


Most of the casting in this set seem to have numbers cast in but on the gunmetal ones it looks more like they have been stamped in - it could be the previous owner did this  . Thankfully that number will be under one of the nuts.

Jo

[Roger B]

I wondered if you had a toolholder set up for a DTI to save time especially when clocking bores 

[Jo]

It does save time and its amazing how often it is needed Roger, like this morning 

The big end bearing block has been started providing a new set of datums I would have preferred not to have. Thankfully, although the bolts and centre for the rod are not central there is a little extra still to come off. Having soft soldered, fettled and bolted the bearings together the centre had to be found using the dimple in the end of the bearing where the rod is going to sit  I love my optical centre punch it is so easy to get your centre where you want it.

Specially for you Roger Mr Silky was using his dial gauge, it really should be one of those nice little 5mm throw ones rather than this big one. Having wound the chuck jaws in until there was no deflection on the gauge it was time to check by powering on and 

Once more to brave the artic south to get back into the workshop 

Jo

[Bluechip]

Hi Jo

Oh dear. That last piccy does look rather gloomy and depressing .... 

I shall have a libation of Rum^(*) and Coffee in sympathy.

(*) Note. In accordance with labelling convention, the major ingredient is listed first ... 

Best of luck. Sooner you than me. 

Dave

[Roger B]

As I said last year, never mind the weather run the engine 

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca8DyJE2RHM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca8DyJE2RHM</a>

[Jo]

Good for you Roger 

In the meantime I have bored the bearing and checked it was a good fit on the crankshaft. Then used a piece of ground bar as a superglue mandrel to turn the two sides of the bearing to width and to get the boss. Filed the bottom, not forgetting to counter bore for the nuts. The only remaining bit is the outside curve which will need to be done when it is bolted to the rod.

The next challenge is to work out a machining plan for the rod that thankfully is over sized 

Jo

[Jo]

The connecting rod is over sized but I was not convinced by the centres so I played safe and mounted the top in a four jaw with tailstock support. As this may have been at a different angle than it had been previously turned at it was necessary to face the bottom - this is now the reference to measure off the end of the taper but first the top slide needs to be set over for the taper.

The set up for the taper was approximated by measuring off the top of the cross slide but the real set up is by turning a bit, measuring and adjusting the taper to get the correct angle. I find the easiest way to do this is to mark up the rod so I can see how far has been turned. Did I mention this is another of those joyful pieces of malleable Iron that looks like it has metal worm 

The tip used was 6mm diameter but the bottom of the taper needed to be 12mm so a larger diameter tool was needed.

The other end needed a rounded flange but it the diameter was not given so I played it safe and drew it up before turning it. It does look a little deep 

Jo

[Jo]

I was only convinced that I had turned the square end down correctly once one of the flats had been machined to size. Once the four sides of the top were to size a bit of support was provided under the bottom and the two sides milled to the correct width.

Having drilled and reamed the pivot hole in the correct position the rod can be turned 90 degrees to have the slot cut but I did not have the right sized end mill to finish the cut to size  so I had to drill, mill then bore the hole 14.3mm at the right distance from the bottom of the fork. Then it was an easy case of milling out the slot until the piston rod end fitted snugly.

With the ends of the fork rounded on the BCA I tried to fit the two rods together to find they do not give as much movement as I expect will be needed... something for tomorrow 


I wonder what Eric has done on his engine  I am sure yesterday he said something about adding some special features of his own 

Jo

[b.lindsey]

Coming along very well Jo. I need to get back to making some chips soon...3 unfinished projects at the moment 

Bill

[Jasonb]

With the ends of the fork rounded on the BCA I tried to fit the two rods together to find they do not give as much movement as I expect will be needed... something for tomorrow 

Do you still have some material to come off the bottom of the rod as your hole looks a bit high up compared to the drawing which should cure things.

Best get that flywheel done as you will soon be able to ply round and round an up and down