Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 327621 times)

Offline zeeprogrammer

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6811
  • West Chester, PA, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #615 on: March 16, 2020, 09:38:44 PM »
The last many pictures of the Tender always has me thinking that you are very close to finish it and start on the Loco ..... But you keep on making more parts for the Tender  :thinking:

Ha. My thought too.

This is going to be a reference for others wanting to build this.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #616 on: March 18, 2020, 08:01:35 PM »
Thanks Per and Zee!
Yes, while the tank itself is close to completion, there are a lot of things left before the full tender is done.  In addition to completing the manhole, there's the hand pump, some pipe work, and several 'decorative' items like stairs and hand rails and such. But it is starting to look recognizable! :)

Kim

Offline scc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1104
  • Lancashire, UK
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #617 on: March 18, 2020, 08:26:30 PM »
Lovely work Kim,       Regards           Terry

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #618 on: March 18, 2020, 10:13:59 PM »
Thank you Terry!
Kim

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #619 on: March 24, 2020, 12:40:53 AM »
The next part on our list is the Manhole Plate.  This is the removable plate that has the manhole access to the tank.  It fits onto the Mounting plate that we just completed.

I squared up the blank and cut it to size, then marked and drilled all the holes.  Kozo recommends waiting to drill the manhole mounting holes till after you complete the manhole itself, but I went ahead and did it now. For things like this, I’ve found if I use the DRO to guarantee the same spacing on the mounting holes in the two parts that things work out quite well. And it saves having to line the parts up, punch the location of the hole, then use my eyeball to line up drilling a hole on that punch mark.  I find the DRO gives me a much higher success rate than punch and eyeball route (go figure :)).


Then I cut the opening for the manhole using the scroll saw.


Tapped the holes:


I didn’t get a shot of punching the faux rivets, but I did that next.  Then rounded the corners just a tad with a file (1/16” radius), and screwed it in place.


Not bad looking!  And the rivets even line up pretty well!
Kim

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #620 on: March 24, 2020, 12:50:49 AM »
Chapter 6.2 – Manhole

The manhole itself is made out of the same 0.040” sheet brass.  If you recall, I cut the piece for this a while back.  Before bending it, I squared up the edges and cut it to the exact length I’d calculated that was required to get the desired diameter. (I used the diameter at the center of the wall.  Not sure if that was the right place or if I should have used the inside diameter.  Regardless, it was close enough that it worked!)

Then I broke out my new slip rolls that I got for Christmas (thank you Santa) and put them to their first use:


After annealing the brass and running it through the rollers again, it came out very nice and round!  Just right! :)  You can see the little attacher piece that holds the cylinder together and aligned.


Next, I needed to make the manhole flange.  This was also cut at the same time.  I took that piece and laid out the location for the manhole.  I made the inner circle just a little small for the outer diameter of the manhole.


After cutting out the circle with the scroll saw, I used a file to carefully and slowly open up the circle till the manhole fit. The thing to remember here is that the manhole is straight up and down, but the flange will be at about a 15o angle to match the top of the tank.  That means the hole for the manhole will be more of an ellipse. Not a big one, but just a tad! So I did more file work to open up the hole and get an angle on the edges.


And here’s out it fits!


Then I added a couple of brass screws – one on the top side (underneath the flange plate) and one at the bottom (above the flange plate) to help hold it in place during soldering.  (Not my idea, this was Kozo’s, and it was a brilliant idea I can tell you!)


Here’s the flange and manhole all prepped and fluxed for silver soldering! (Note that I also knocked the corners off the flange to make the flange easier to round up later).


And here’s after the soldering job.  Not too bad!  I really like how this part came out!  Silver soldering isn’t quite as scary to me as it used to be. I’d even say it was almost enjoyable!


Here’s the post-pickle shot.  (I just wanted to admire my silver soldering job again  :embarassed:)


Next, I mounted it in the Taig 4 jaw and centered it as good as I could, to make the flange round.  With the flange being at an angle, it made for a really bizarre interrupted cut.  The first time I centered it up in the chuck, I didn’t tighten the jaws too tight - I didn't want the brass deforming out of round.  This was a mistake.  As soon as the tool contacted the metal it just popped right off the jaws and went bouncing around in a rather frightening way!  Luckily, the damage was minimal (none to myself or the machine, and one divot in the flange where it hit the tool and a few smaller marks in other areas.  I was able to gently pound out the flange ding, and everything else is fine.  So for my second attempt, I tightened things up a quite a bit tighter and was WAY more careful to sneak up on the cut. I ended up deforming the bottom of the manhole a bit with how tight I got it, but in the end, it won’t matter because that part is being removed anyway.  And all the important parts stayed round!


And here we are, the manhole with a round flange.


That’s as far as I got this weekend.
Thanks for stopping by to take a look!
Kim

Offline Flyboy Jim

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 2002
  • Independence, Oregon
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #621 on: March 24, 2020, 02:24:00 AM »
Excellent Kim!  :popcorn:

Jim
Sherline 4400 Lathe
Sherline 5400 Mill
"You can do small things on big machines, but you can do small things on small machines".

Offline zeeprogrammer

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6811
  • West Chester, PA, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #622 on: March 24, 2020, 02:54:28 AM »
Nice write-up!  :ThumbsUp:
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #623 on: March 24, 2020, 07:45:05 PM »
Thanks Jim and Zee! :)
Kim

Offline Roger B

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6133
  • Switzerland
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #624 on: March 25, 2020, 01:47:42 PM »
I'm still following along and enjoying  :praise2: There's an amazing amount of detail in this build  :wine1:
Best regards

Roger

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #625 on: March 25, 2020, 04:00:48 PM »
Thanks Roger!  :cheers:
Kim

Offline samc88

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 276
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #626 on: March 28, 2020, 06:29:45 PM »
Excellent.Its looking good

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #627 on: March 28, 2020, 11:21:27 PM »
Thanks for stopping by and taking a look, Sam!
Appreciate it :)
Kim

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #628 on: March 28, 2020, 11:24:41 PM »
Continuing with the Manhole, I filed down the lug that I’d used to hold the cylinder together for soldering. This will be used to mount the hinge for the manhole cover eventually.


Then I used a jewel’s saw to remove the bottom half of the manhole (the part NOT needed :) – and yes, I double-checked before sawing!).


And now its in two pieces.  The part on the right is the part I care about.


After filing the bottom flat, I held it lightly in the vice, to drill the mounting holes.  I started with 1/16” end mill since it was on a slope, then switched to a #52 to make the holes the right size.


Now, mounting the manhole on the manhole plate, you can see the ragged edge along the inside of the manhole.  This will now be filed flush.


Like so:


And with that, the manhole assembly is complete!

Or is it!?  At this point, I realized I never made the lug for the manhole plate. So I’ve got one more piece to make before this assembly is complete.

Kim


Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7860
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #629 on: March 28, 2020, 11:26:36 PM »
So NOW, I’ll make the Lug for the manhole plate.  This lug will attach to the bottom of the plate and hold it in place so the bottom doesn’t flap about.

The lug is made from the same 0.040” sheet brass.  I used a scrap piece and made it the appropriate width (15/32”).  Then drilled the mounting holes:


After that, I cut off the piece and filed 15o slopes on each of the front corners.  With that, the lug was complete.


All that’s left is to mount it to the Manhole Plate:


Then put it all together.


And NOW the manhole assembly is complete! :)

Thanks for taking a look!
Kim

 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal