Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 327626 times)

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #30 on: October 28, 2018, 05:14:02 PM »
Hi Kim, good to see your start of a new projekt. I will following along.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline kvom

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #31 on: October 28, 2018, 06:08:56 PM »
I can't find the error site now myself either.   :shrug:


Offline 10KPete

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #32 on: October 28, 2018, 06:19:26 PM »
Has anyone pulled all the errata together in to one document? As popular as this loco is I would think it might have been done??

Thanks,

Pete
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Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #33 on: November 04, 2018, 12:57:23 AM »
Moving forward on the wheels for the tender.

I mounted one of the blanks into my 3” Taig 4 jaw chuck (I have an adaptor for this chuck that I’ve made for other projects and it works quite well). I indicated it using the outside radius to get it fairly centered in the chuck. Then I faced off one side, nice and clean.


Next step was to pan out a good chunk on the wheel.  This needed a 15o slope on each side of the scooped-out section.  To get this, I ground a tool with a 30o angle with a nice broad rounded tip.


Then went about panning the first wheel. It seemed to be going quite well and was looking really good, except I noticed things sounded funny toward the outside of the section.  I soon discovered that the edge of the tool was interfering terribly with the outside radius of the cut-out section.


And of course I had one of those “Duh…” moments.  All you experienced guys saw this coming from a mile away, I’m sure.  But I had to discover it on my own apparently. :Doh:

So, I modified the tool and created a lot more clearance on the left side of the tip.  I needed to get about 1/8” deep with the tool, so I cut the clearance that far back (plus some safety margin).


With that modification, things worked MUCH better!  And I think I can still pull this one out and NOT have to scrap this wheel (at least, not for this bonehead move.  Maybe for the next one :)).

With the sloping edge of the tool, it was kind challenging to get the correct width of the carved-out area. In addition to the sloping tool, it was difficult to get a good datum on the very center of the wheel. So, I did a ‘good eyeball’ estimate and carved out most of the area, leaving a nice buffer on each side.  Once I got to the correct depth (1/8”) I snuck up on the inside and outside radius, measuring with the dial calipers till I got the correct inside (5/8”) and outside (1 3/4") diameters.


With that completed, next was to make the 5/16” axle hole.  I started this with a center and then drilling a 1/4" hole all the way through.


Then, to ensure that the axle hole was perpendicular to the freshly machined side of the wheel, I bored the hole out to just under 5/16” ( went to about 0.304”, leaving about 8 thousandths for the reamer).


Having ensured the hole was perpendicular, I then reamed it out with a 5/16” reamer:


Having completed all operations on the first side, I flipped the wheel around in the 4 jaw and then centered it using the freshly cut axle hole.


Next op was to face off this side and cut it down to the correct width for the wheel (7/16”). 


And repeat the panning operation on this side (as described above).


And that is the first series of operation for each wheel blank.  After I get all 8 wheels to this stage, then I’ll work on turning the flange and the tread.

I got two wheels turned up to this point.  I think I’m getting faster.  First one took 4-5 hours because I had to grind the panning tool (and then re-grind it to fix the relief problem) and figure out how to do all the steps.  But the second one only took 90 min or so (I didn’t actually time it, but it was much faster).  I’m thinking they’ll get even faster, but it will still take some time.  I’ve got 6 more of them to go!

Anyway, here’s my progress so far, showing the two completed up to this point and one of the ‘blanks’ just for fun.


Thanks for taking a look!
Kim

Online crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #34 on: November 04, 2018, 01:01:43 AM »
Very well done!


 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #35 on: November 04, 2018, 01:02:34 AM »
Hey, that is some good progress Kim. The time should come down a lot on the successive wheels.

Bill

Offline 10KPete

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #36 on: November 04, 2018, 01:17:44 AM »
Sweet!

 :popcorn: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:

Pete
Craftsman, Tinkerer, Curious Person.
Retired, finally!
SB 10K lathe, Benchmaster mill. And stuff.

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #37 on: November 04, 2018, 01:38:55 AM »
Thanks Chris, Bill, and Pete!

I've never done 8 repetitions of something before.  The most I've done is 5 - for Rudy's Radial Five.  Luckily, things will go down to fewer repetitions after the tender wheels & trucks!

Kim

Offline Tin Falcon

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #38 on: November 04, 2018, 02:15:18 AM »
kim  and all  I came across this pbs (Parts breakdown system ) published by martin of the MMX project. it is a free download an engineering tool to manage complex projects. Try it or not but looks interesting could com in handy.


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eKW_-ygHTu2z4inSSGPFnjAoIolORW19d-Xu-uhDw9E/edit#gid=0

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #39 on: November 04, 2018, 05:05:37 AM »
That does look interesting!  That looks somewhat similar to a project numbering system that was used by a company I used to work at.  Each project was given a 4 digit project number, then there was a prefix that indicated what documentation this was for the project, and a post fix for revision control.  The prefix was something like - 100 series was drawings, 200 series was specs, 300 was something else (I can't remember them all) and 900's were for the BOMs.  It was very hierarchical too.

That spreadsheet looks pretty interesting.  Thanks for sharing!
Kim

Offline Tin Falcon

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #40 on: November 04, 2018, 12:17:50 PM »
You are welcome Like I mentioned this is an offshoot of the Marble machine x project.  Wintergaten you tube Chanel. This aspect of the project is described in episode 57 of the build. The guy has been IIrc about a year /year and a half on this project and hopes to have it pretty much wrapped up by Christmas.  Not only is he building this machine but he is designing / redesigning most of the parts as he goes. 

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #41 on: November 04, 2018, 02:57:25 PM »
Wow! I had to go google that.  Pretty impressive! :)
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #42 on: November 11, 2018, 02:58:56 PM »
This is a short update representing a lot of work.  I completed the first phase on all eight tender wheels:


Next will be to add the flange & tread to the wheels!

Thanks for taking a look,
Kim

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #43 on: November 11, 2018, 03:28:27 PM »
You started this while I was on my road trip. I've been looking forward to catching up.

What fun!  :ThumbsUp:
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Online crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #44 on: November 11, 2018, 03:37:22 PM »
Great start, looking forward to seeing the build!
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

 

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