Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)

[Steamer5]

Nice work Kim.

Coming on very nicely.

Cheers Kerrin

[Kim]

Thank you Kerrin!
Kim

[Kim]

Chapter 8.8 – Handle

Today made the Lever handle for the pump.  The handle consists of two pieces, a 5/16” bar, for the handle, and a short length of 7/16” tube to connect the handle to the lever.

I started by making the tube.  I made it, because I couldn’t find (or justify the cost of) 1” of SS tubing, 7/16” OD, and 5/16” ID.   And it was easy enough to make.  I started with 1/2” 303 SS round rod.  In the lathe I drilled a 7/16” hole just a tad over 1” deep.


Then I cut it off at 1”.  That was easy.


For the handle, I cut a ~5.5” length and faced both ends off in the lathe. Then holding it in the square collet block I drilled a #29 hole 3/4" back from one end (#29 being just over 1/8”, something on the order of 0.136”).


And used a slitting saw to cut the 1/8” slot up to that hole.  Here I’m almost done cutting the lower edge of the slot.


Here are the two pieces that form the handle.


With this, I used green 638 Loctite to glue the tube around the slotted end of the handle, and it was done!

[Kim]

Chapter 8.9 – Pins

There are three pins required for the hand pump.  Two for the link and one for the plunger.

They were all made the same way out of 1/8” round 303 SS stock.

I started by cutting 3 short lengths for the pins.  This may seem odd – why not just use the long parent stock and cut them off as they are done?  Well, because my parent stock was 4’ long.  And when you have 3’ of 1/8” rod sticking out of the headstock of the lathe, it starts whipping around pretty good when its turning.  So, I chose to just use short bits.  It turns out about the same in the end.

Taking one of the pins, I put it in the 1/8” collet chuck, faced it and chamfered the end with a file.  Then, using the Warner grooving tool (1/64”) I cut a groove for the e-clip.


After that, I flipped the pin around, faced to length, and cut a groove in that end, just like before.

Doing that process three times resulted in this:


With the pins completed, last part for the hand pump was a spring, and I’d already had made appropriately sized springs before (back when I built a pump to pressure test my steam tractor boiler! ), so I didn't do that here.

My final task for the pump, before final assembly, was to form the ball-seats.  A few posts back people were giving advice on how to do the ball seats and what material worked best for them for the balls.  I chose to go the route of the Si Nitride balls (super hard).  I ordered a pack of 50 of these off Amazon. Using these Si Nitride balls, I put one on each seat, gave it a gentle whack. Before assembling, I did look and make sure that I could see a visible ‘seat’ in each location, and I did.  You can see the Si Nitride balls used here.


And here’s a shot that shows the handle removed:


And the pump fully assembled:



Now, for the final test – does it pump water?
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwRfJuTf9-Q" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwRfJuTf9-Q</a>

Yup, it works!  It’s a little stiff in it's movement so I’m going have to work on that.  But it pumps and water comes out

Thanks for checking in!
Kim

[cnr6400]

 

[Admiral_dk]

Yet another box ticked off - nice progress Kim 

[joe d]

Hi Kim.  I've following along since you began, just haven't been saying much.  I look forward to your posts, something interesting every time!

Cheers, Joe

[Kim]

Thanks CNR, Admiral, and Joe!  Appreciate the comments 
Kim

[kvom]

Now just hope you never need to use it.   

[Kim]

   

[Kim]

Having completed the hand pump, it is time to mount it in place, inside the tender tank:


You don’t see it with the manhole cover on, but when you flip the lid open you can connect the handle and pump away!  Pretty cool, eh?  That Kozo is one cleaver fellow!

Now we start the piping for the tender.  This is the last part of the tender.  After the piping work, it will be on to the engine!   I still have to paint the tank which I’ll do after I complete the piping, but I think I’ll get to start the engine this year!  (Its good to have goals, right?)


Chapter 9.1 – Drain Pipe, Drain Plug, Suction Stud, Delivery Stud, Suction Strainer and Nut

Kozo packs a lot of items into this one section.  Granted, they are all fairly simple, but there’s a bunch of them!  We’ll start with the drain pipe.  As the name might imply, this is for emptying the water out of the tender.

The drain pipe fitting is turned from a piece of 5/8” hex brass.  Here I’ve drilled & tapped it 10-32 (for the drain plug, of course), shaped the bottom and am now cutting it off the parent stock.


Next I drilled and tapped the mounting holes, then cut a length of 3/16” brass tubing for the drain pipe.

I’ll silver solder those parts together later.  It’s too stinking hot out there for me to open the garage door!

And that was about all I could take in the shop as it was getting too hot, even with the door closed!    (It stays a lot cooler with the door closed, but it still gets hot!).

Thanks for stopping by!
Kim

[Kim]

First up was to silver solder the drain pipe assembly:


Here’s the after shot, just ready for some time in the pickle!


Now to the Plug for the drain.  This was a fairly simple turn from 5/16” hex brass.  I used a center since it was so long, but now its time to take off the nub on the end.  I cut part way with the Warner grooving tool, then stopped and used a hacksaw the rest of the way.


Then I threaded the end 10-32, to screw into the Drain.


After cutting the plug off from the parent stock, here are the two drain pieces – the drain pipe and the plug:


Next up is the Suction Stud, and the Delivery Stud.  These provide attachment points for the piping to the axle mounted water pump (the Suction Stud), and the output from the hand pump (Delivery Stud).

These were made from 1/2" hex 303 Stainless.  As it turns out, I’d intended to make the drain from stainless too, but mis-read my notes so ended up making them from 360 brass.  I think I’ve got enough extra material to cover this, but the brass is like 40-50% more expensive than the stainless, so I tried to go with SS when possible.

On the lathe I drilled the center hole, took down the end to 5/16”, and then used a 5/16”-24 die to make threads to attach piping later.


After cutting off from the parent stock to the appropriate length, I moved over to the mill and drilled the outlet hole in the side. Coper tubing will be soldered in place here eventually.


And here are the completed Drain and Delivery Studs.


And that was my Saturday shop time!  Sorry its taken most of the week to get around to posting!

Thanks for taking a look,
Kim

[crueby]

Some more great parts!

[Dave Otto]

Hi Kim

I neglected to comment on your finished pump, it turned out great!
You continue to turn out very nice work.

Dave

[Kim]

Thanks Chris and Dave! 
Appreciate the kind comments.

Slow, but slowly, piece by piece, I'm moving along.  Eventually, I'll have a completed tender!

Kim