Elmer's 36 Reversing Wobbler - 2x - Imperial - Mike's 2nd engine

[mikehinz]

A second to what Tony said. Bore in the lathe with the 4 jaw. That way the skim cut on the face will be perpendicular to the bore. Easier to do that on the lathe than the mill IMO.

Bill

Bill, that's my intent for finishing the cylinder.  I'm planning to make most of the shafts today, then finish the flywheel, the move back to the cylinder.  I don't know how much of all that I'll get done today though!  I do promise pix later though!

Mike.

[mikehinz]

That's fantastic! 

Getting a drawing to do what you need is a big step towards making parts.
I really enjoy CAD. I'm still looking for cam animation.

Thanks!  I actually enjoy the learning process, although it takes me a while!  I certainly note a lot less scrap pieces if I take the time to model and draw whatever it is I'm making.

I'm afraid I can't yet help you with cam type joints.  Evidently that's a weak point in Fusion right now.  I'm sure I'll run into that problem whenever i attempt any sort of IC engine.  Do let me know how you progress on cams as I'm sure I'll need that knowledge in the future!

Hopefully some actual machine work is in the cards for today!

Mike.

[toolznthings]

Hi,

Great job on the 3D model. Way beyond my expertise. Just wait till you are all done with the running engine to post the drawings. Should have all your corrections
solid by then. Look forward to the rest of the build and the drawings, too!

Brian

[mikehinz]

I got some work on the engine parts done today!  Very few interruptions so i got a fair bit accomplished, at least for me! 

I decided to finish all the shafts for the engine today since I had my 5C collet setup installed in the lathe. 

First picture is how I setup to drill the 3/8" brass ball for the reversing valve handle.  That's a 3/8" collet with an adjustable stop set so that the ball fits in the collet such that it's gripped by it's diameter properly. 



Collet and brass ball are installed in the lathe and I'm just putting a small flat on the ball with a 1/4" end mill help in the tailstock chuck.


Then drilling with a #38 to .25" depth



Then tapping 5-40 first with a taper tap then with a bottoming tap.  I'm using a spring loaded tap folder and one of those tiny tap handles from LMS.  Very nice for small taps.  You can easily feel what's going on with the tap!


Then threading 5-40 on the reversing valve arm.  Note that I've made a plug that fits within the backside of a die-stock and has a small hole for the spring loaded tap follower.  This works ok for very small dies, say 10-32 and under but doesn't work at all well for larger sizes.  After this engine is done I'm going to make a proper tailstock die holder as that would seem to be a much better approach.



Completed reversing valve handle and ball.



Pix of all the completed shafts; crankshaft, crank pin, pivot rod, piston rod, reversing valve lever.



Setup the flywheel in the mill and centered it and set the DRO to 0,0.  Shows the completed crankshaft hole plus the spot drill locations for the decorative holes and the crank pin hole.



Pic of the DRO when located at a particular hole.  i drew the flywheel to use x,y coordinates vs polar since this was fast and easy for a simple pattern.  I'll put the polar coordinates on the drawing before I finalize it in case someone wants to do this on a rotary table.



Finally, the crankshaft is assembled in the flywheel.  I had a light interference fit, so I froze the crankshaft and it wold then just barely start by hand.  I quickly applied some Loctite 603 retaining compound and pressed the crankshaft into place using my bench vise.



I'm going to let this cure overnight and then first thing tomorrow, install the assembly in the lathe and true up the flywheel.  It looks like its running fairly true now, but I want to get it as close as I can.  I put center-holes on each end of the crankshaft so that i can turn both sides fairly easily.  Hopefully i also get some more done on the column and cylinder.  I also need to order a bit more material for the crosshead guide.  I thought i had some of the right size tubing around here but it turns out that I didn't.

All for now, hope you enjoy!

FYI

Mike.

[crueby]

For some reason I am not seeing the pictures in the last post, they are there in earlier ones.   

[toolznthings]

No pictures here either. 

[mikehinz]

Could you please see if the pix are visible now?  I had failed to move them to my shared folder before linking them here.  Permissions are wrong unless I have them in the correct folder. 

Let me know if this works  Sorry for the confusion!

Mike

[zeeprogrammer]

If I'm counting right, I can see all but #3, #4, #5, and #9.

[mikehinz]

I've modified and then resaved the post one more time.  See if all the pix are visible now.  I'm running out of ideas as to what else might be wrong with some but not all of the pix. 

I might ask a more general question. For pictures, I started linking the images from a shared Google Photos folder.  I'm doing it this way as its easier and you get the correct size pix easily.  The other way of attaching resized pix is much more work, but is also puts the pix in the forum as a permanent record (more or less).  What's the preferred approach currently?   I've read thru the various forum posts on this subject and it seems like people do both.

I just want this process to be fairly robust and trouble-free.

Mike.. 

[AOG]

I can see all of the pics on my iPad

Tony

[10KPete]

Pictures that disappear before the forum does make threads very useless.

This has been hashed over many, many times on many forums. Everyone seems to agree on 'permanent' images but many still use outside image storage.

As to what's the thing for you to do, that's your decision.

But if allowed a vote I think you should keep your images with the thread when possible.

 

Pete

[zeeprogrammer]

No change for me. I still can't see #3, #4, #5, and #9.

When my 3rd party hosting site blackmailed me (and many of us), I pretty much just went to attaching photos.

But I'd rather be able to post with text in between.

I've yet to decide whether to try another service. Most either cost money, are at risk of closing shop, or will change policies (i.e. blackmail) you.
I understand they idea of paying a bit of money for good service...but it doesn't change the possibility of going out of business or changing policy.

So I continue to simply attach photos from my computer.

[Kim]

Yes, I agree with Pete, a thread with out pictures is pretty useless.  And I also agree with Zee, I prefer the photos between the text.
 
I find posts with the pictures all at the end MUCH harder to follow, and I find they tend to lose my interest faster because of that.  I still try to follow along, but I just have a harder time following what text went with what picture.  Sure, I can read 6 uninterrupted paragraphs of text, but it's hard to retain all the context when I get to the string of eight pictures at the end.  Maybe this is just my personal mini-rant, but I have to believe that others feel this too.  That's why I host my pictures off site, so I can do pictures between text.

The best solution I have found for this is to use the server that Ade has made available to members.  It is currently free, and is hosted the same place as the forum. So it feels reasonable for me to assume that as long as the forum is around, the pictures are likely to be also.

You can get info about this photo storage option here: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,7249.0.html

It has worked well for me!
Kim

[10KPete]

Yep, that link to the lister group is what I'm using . And many thanks to Kim for guiding me in how to use it. I'd never done that sort of thing and I'm not a 'puter guy so Kim got me there. There is a close enough connection that I don't think the pics are going anywhere. Extremely close!!

 

Pete

[zeeprogrammer]

I'll check that out. In the mean time, best of luck Mike, in getting your pictures to show.
What I can see looks great.