Improving the B&S flywheel cover

[b.lindsey]

The only main part of this model that wasn't machined from metal was the flywheel cover. This part was instead 3D printed and has worked so well I never pursued making a formed metal or machined part to replace it. Over the years though the ABS plastic had discolored some, likely due to UV exposure and the striations on the upper curved area didn't hold decals well either.

So I am trying something. I coated the entire outer surface with a thin coat of JB weld and let it sure overnight (photo 1). Then a lot!! of sanding to get back almost to the plastic underneath (photo 2). Next a coat of filler/primer (photo 3). That is where I am now. I may go back and refill any residual dimples or pores that still show and then a final primer coat and then a glossy black final coat (though I am pondering a cardinal red as an option too since B&S did some in red though for other end brands I think). Will let you know how it all turns out in a day or two.

Bill

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hi Bill,

If they are small holes you might try some automotive body filler material ( like the old Bondo ) but much easier to apply and very easy to sand.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[b.lindsey]

Thanks Gary. I did think of that but had the epoxy on hand and went that route. It would be an interesting comparison.
Bill

[Admiral_dk]

I enjoyed your original build series on the other site immensely back then Bill 
... but I can't remember that you got the cover 3D printed  .... that unfortunately says more about my bad memory ...

Interesting that it didn't last and I can't help wondering if that has more to do with the printer or the material - do you have a clue ?

Best wishes

Per

[b.lindsey]

Per, it has lasted very well in fact. It was only the original creamy white color that has yellowed over time that was getting on my nerves a bit, hence this most recent effort to smooth it out and paint it up so it wont be an issue and so the B&S Logo decal will stick better too!!  Mechanically its as strong as it ever was.

Bill

[Admiral_dk]

OK so we are just talking about discoloration (Sun or ?) + eventual surface imperfection that you are fixing as part of giving a painting friendly surface now - makes quite good sense to me.

[b.lindsey]

Yes, mainly just discoloration from age and UV light I suspect. The "striations" are a result of the 3D printing process and are most obvious on curved surfaced in the "Z" direction of the original print, mainly that top curved face where the B&S logo decal is. It wasn't as noticeable in the natural white color of the print material though there was always a slight issue with the decal sticking. Hopefully the smoothing of the surfaces will help this and overall appearance when painted.


The first coat of black paint was done this morning so should have some pictures later.


Bill

[Dreeves]

I got excited and thought you were making one out of metal    looks good I hope to see in in January

Dave

[b.lindsey]

Dave, that is still the long term plan and on the list once I can get the shop back in working order.

Bill

[Dan Rowe]

Bill,
If you are planning to make a metal one a good choice of material is something that is for a deep draw. Like a one pound disposable propane tank. I recycle these tanks and can send you a piece large enough for the cover I think I am not really sure how large the cover is. It is about .020" thick and I use it for making small sheet metal parts and it works cold without cracking.

Dan

[Johnmcc69]

Hi Bill, neat project with the cover.
 What year & model was your engine based on? I had the issue of "home shop machinist" that it was featured in, but alas. ..
 
 How did you create the decal for it?

 John

[b.lindsey]

Hi John. The model was based on a 1951 Model 6S engine. The decals were drawn up in AutoCAD as I recall and printed on clear mylar sticky back label material with a color laser printer.

Bill

[Johnmcc69]

Thank you Bill! Beautiful job on it!
 
 John