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I had thought of starting a topic with various model governor designs and how to machine their tricky fiddly bits.
Quote from: Jo on October 15, 2012, 02:59:14 PMI had thought of starting a topic with various model governor designs and how to machine their tricky fiddly bits.Yes please! Simon
So long as you start with the balls & springs for a Pickering governor
What ...no Inertia governors!......Scandal!
Zee, sorry butterfly valves. I have no problem with cutting an ellipse with the appropriate angles on the edges. That is easy: You take a piece of brass bar the diameter of the port, cut an angle on the end at the correct angle, stick a piece of hard brass on it, turn the flat to match the bar and Bob's your uncle one valve. It is that fiddly bit of poking it into the slot on the valve spindle, getting it at the wrong correct angle and then securing it with screws which unless the shaft is pretty big (> 3.2mm) are holding on by a whisker.No on small engines (most of mine have steam pipes of 4mm I/D) I cheat, if I want a working valve I make the spindle bigger than the steam port (you can normally hide this diameter under the gland) then cross drill the shaft, to let the steam through. You can fully open this in 90 deg of movement. Ok so it is not as sharp as a butterfly, but that little thieving gnome in the workshop has so many of my Lady S's valves hidden away where I dropped them on the floor trying to mount them. I only do big butterflys now, 6.35 mm+.
Quote from: steamer on October 15, 2012, 09:36:00 PMWhat ...no Inertia governors!......Scandal!We were talking steam engines rather than gas: both my Centaur and R&B have variations on a Watt. I am sure someone has a woodpecker, who would like to "chirp" in .Jo
Very interesting, but hard to understand for folks like me who've never built a valve from scratch. I think we're due for another thread on valve building