Oh, one of those “little” projects.

[zeeprogrammer]

This is not a PM machine, it is a Weiss VM32L and I purchased it from DRO PROS out of California. The stand is also a Weiss from DRO PROS and that draw is going to be very handy. Lots of tools I don't keep in the Chip Tray can now be stored in that draw.

Have not had any problems with full travel on X or Y. The lock handles are clear of all items.

Thanks. I took a closer look and I can see the control panel on the left has a different arrangement from mine. Everything else looks the same but I wouldn't be surprised if yours was built with different/better specs.

In thinking about the trouble I've had with the lock handles...I think now it's more my fault. I'm still inexperienced and it doesn't occur to me (or I don't remember) to set the handles out of the way after locking.

Enjoy the shop. It looks really good.

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Very nice Thomas! Always fun to have a new machine to play with.

Bill

Hi Bill,

Can't wait to carve into a piece of metal......

Have a great day,
Thomas

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello again Zee,

Like most machines today, mine was built in China and maybe at the same as yours...who really knows now days. The literature shows a "Wiess" plant and nothing but Weiss machines inside, however the next day it could be another brand. I did over two months research on all the equipment manufactures that I could find on the internet and no other machines could match the specifications on the Mill and Lathe. After several months of use and at least one completed engine, I will be able to give a "review" of their equipment. I can only hope that I have made a wise investment. I have two projects "waiting" for me now and hope the Lathe comes in on schedule.

Thank you for the nice comments and have a great day,
Thomas

[Kim]

Very nice, Thomas!
You've got a fun project to get the DRO's all setup!  Always challenges there, but I've found it really helps you get to know your machine right away

Have fun and enjoy your new tools!
Kim

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hi Kim,

Well the truth be told, I am not looking forward to installing the DRO but it must get done. They (DRO PROS) have mailed me a DVD showing step by step the procedure and I got 3 books in the packages also giving the instructions. I just have to get a mind set when I start to work.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[Kim]

Yeah, installing expensive DROs on an expensive new machine is always a little gut wrenching. 

I just have to dig in and get started, then it gets easier.  And you always run into some seemingly insurmountable issue that you inevitably figure out how to get around.  But in the end, you just have to get started to get it done

You'll get there!  I did, so no doubt you will to!
Kim

[propforward]

Heck - I've seen the work you do - you can handle DRO installs, no worries.

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hi propforward,

Thank you, we will see in a few days.

Have a great weekend,
Thomas

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello everyone,

Got started on installing the 3-Axis DRO on the Mill at 2:am this morning. It is now 1:45pm and I have only installed the Magnetic Rail for “X” and working on installing the Reader Head. This is why I have not been looking forward to this project. Seems like all “add-on’s” always turn into a lot more work than they tell you.

My little roll around chair sure saved my back today. Most of the drilling and tapping was at a waist high level. Being able to sit down to do the work sure helped.

Photo-1
Chair and threading the cut end of the magnetic rail
Photo-2
The “X” Rail installed
Photo-3
Checking that the rail is dead level
Photo-4
Almost no room for a drill and a bit to drill the holes to mount the “reader”. Had to cut down 2 drill bits to fit.
Photo-5
Even harder, was tapping the holes. Only a half-turn at a time and it was hard tapping into that cast iron. I think I hit a 1959 Buick bumper in there somewhere.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[Kim]

Looks like a great start Thomas!
I agree with you on tapping the CI of these machines.  I ended up drilling a little larger hole and making the fit more like a 60% thread, rather than 75% that most charts show.  It could have been because I have cheap metric taps that aren't very sharp.  But boy, I worried about breaking a tap off in one of those holes.  Luckily, that didn't happen.

Keep at it Thomas.  Yeah, it will take you longer than you want, but you'll get it done and be happy you did it!
Kim

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hi Kim,

Like you, I was afraid of breaking a tap. If it did happen, it would break inside the hole and I would have a heck of a time getting it out. So to be safe, I drilled the 75% size a little deeper than required. Then I used a 50% bit about 1/8" deep at the face to make it real easy to get the taper tap started straight. Ran the taper tap as deep as it would go, backing out every 3 to 4 turns. Then a ran a bottom tap to chase the threads to the required depth. Maybe a lot of extra work but no broken taps, and no do-overs. I used cutting oil through out the whole process.

Have a great afternoon,
Thomas

[Kim]

Sounds like you have a good process down!
Kim

[steamer]

Even harder, was tapping the holes. Only a half-turn at a time and it was hard tapping into that cast iron. I think I hit a 1959 Buick bumper in there somewhere.



Usually  a railroad spike....sometimes intact!....ask me how I know this....


 

Dave

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Even harder, was tapping the holes. Only a half-turn at a time and it was hard tapping into that cast iron. I think I hit a 1959 Buick bumper in there somewhere.



Usually  a railroad spike....sometimes intact!....ask me how I know this....


 

Dave

Hello Dave,

OK, now you have to tell me.  ???

Have a great day,
Thomas

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello everyone,

OK still trying to tap all the holes for the DRO installation and hit that 59 Buick bumper again, or rail spike as Steamer suggested.

I need some help and advise. It’s too late now to “over drill” the hole to make it easier for tapping so what can I do. I am using a 1/4-20 tap and can only make a half turn ( sometimes less ) for each cut before having to back all the way out. As you can see in the photo I am even using a cheater ( closed end wrench ) to make the turn. I am afraid that the tap will break sometimes. Anybody with any suggestions????

Thomas