Maudslay Marine Engine

[b.lindsey]

Chuck, is this double acting or single?

Bill

[cfellows]

It will be double acting.  There will be a passage through the bottom cylinder cover that connects to the bottom of the cylinder.

Here is my first go at frame components.  These pieces will hold the main bearing blocks and the 1/4" rods that extend down to the base.



These were cut on my CNC mill.  They are made of brass although it's kind of hard to tell in the picture.  I applied blue painters tape to the block of wood and to the back of the brass blank.  Then I applied liberal amounts of super glue to the painters tape to glue the brass blank to the wood base.  Works really well and it makes clean up a lot easier.  Gotta love CNC!

[crueby]

Neat trick with the tape and glue. Another one to try and remember!

[cfellows]

Neat trick with the tape and glue. Another one to try and remember!

Thanks.  I actually learned that from a youtube video, NYCCNC. 

I got the ports drilled in the valve body (bottom cylinder cover).





Not particularly pretty, cut hopefully functional.  The photo makes the part look a lot rougher than it is in reality...

[cfellows]

The cove cuts in the outside edges of these frame pieces are the first edge detail I've ever added to a piece that was CNC cut. 



I used the same DXF file, but specified an engraving operation instead of profile or pocket.  The cutter was a 1/8" ball-nose end mill.  I'm pleasantly surprised with the results.

[Johnmcc69]

Really nice work Chuck. Gonna be a very nice model.

 John

[cfellows]

Really nice work Chuck. Gonna be a very nice model.

 John

Thanks, John.  But I have a ways to go before I can match your level of work.   

[cfellows]

I started work on the frame feet.



It has to be freed from the 3/4" square stock material and the 1/8 cove cut on the other side.  A chamfer might have looked better, but already did the cove.  A 1/4" hole will be drilled in the angled top to receive a 4" long piece of 1/4" brass rod for the edge of the frame side.  Gotta say, this new found ability to cut edge details on cnc'd parts has opened up a lot of new possibilities for me.

Chuck

[b.lindsey]

The matching cove detail will look great with the top frame pieces Chuck. These are really looking great!!

Bill

[cfellows]

Thanks, Bill. 

I finished up the feet today, although I may want to add some more detail.  Haven't decided yet.  My 7/8" 2-56 SHCS came in the mail today so I was able to get the cylinder assembly all fastened together, for now.  Here's a rough preview of what I have done so far...



Gonna try to finish up the frame now, if I can.  I had a chemo treatment yesterday and may not feel like working in the shop although I should have a day or two before it starts kicking my butt!

Chuck

[cfellows]

I'm going to cut the inserts on the frames from 1/8" thick brass sheet using my CNC mill.  Here's the drawing from Visio.



Won't be as pretty as the assembled pieces, but a whole lot easier to make.  I've ordered a 1/16" radius corner rounding end mill to add a round profile on the edges.  Both these items were ordered on Ebay and will probably not arrive until later next week.  In the mean time, I'll start work on some of the other pieces.

Chuck

[cfellows]

Plan for today.  I've decided the flywheel is the next most pressing issue, so today I am going to see if I can whittle the flywheel casting on the left into the drawing on the right.



Most of the work will be done on the milling machine with a rotary table, then the final true-up can be done on the lathe.  Got a lot of metal to remove and it's going to be messy!

Chuck

[b.lindsey]

Should be interesting Chuck, but easier that cutting it from a solid piece I expect.

Bill

[cfellows]

Using the mill and rotary table to reduce the diameter turned out to be a non-starter.  Cranking a rotary table crank 90 times per revolution, against a sizable force I might add, was way too labor intensive, so I reverted to the lathe.  Unfortunately My lathe doesn't have a back gear and my 1 hp DC motor doesn't have a lot of torque at low RPM's, so, I had to make 37 passes at .005" per cut to take 3/8" off the OD.  And boy, is machining cast iron messy!  But I got it.



Got a bit of chatter facing off the side, but I wanted it trued up with the rim so I could mount it in my 8" 4-jaw chuck to finish reducing the axial thickness of the rim and the spokes.  I can see this is going to be a lot of work...

[kvom]

Nicely done.  And now you can sell me the Sanderson flywheel.