Hi guys,
With all the domestic distractions that seem to have gone on for weeks now I've been waiting for a degree of workshop 'continuity' before I get back onto the Corliss build. There has been odd days in the shid here and there so I decided to finally get round to this small project that's been on the cards for a couple of years.
The project is a small glass case intended to display a plastic model or two and as the make up will suit anything I thought some might like to see a few pics of it's make up. I have made various similar cases since the early eighties ranging from ones you can hold in one hand to one around 5ft long. All have been made from glass and wood surround and been made in an identical manner.
The glass used is 3mm float glass (4mm for larger versions). In the past it was essential to stress to the glass supplier that though the actual dimensions wasn't critical, squareness and getting the two long sides an identical length was. The glass I used for this case was 'machine' cut and absolutely spot on.
A simple fixture was constructed from particle board to hold the two long sides the correct distance apart and the end, shorter sides then glued on. Incidentally those small blue pads were on the glass as protectors - ha used to be old newspaper
. Non adhesive but very 'sticky' on a smooth surface one side I found them a very useful aid in places.
The adhesive used is Loctite Multibond which glues glass extremely well. Two pack the catalyst is sprayed on one part and the adhesive applied to the other. The catalyst comes as a spray so the glass is quickly masked off to give a defined area.
The dimensions are such that gluing the end panels on and also the top leaves about half a mm short for the glue to ooze out on and form a fillet.
The base is made to suit the final internal dimensions of the glass box. This timber was all re-claimed from an old mahogany table top. Again the glass was masked off to apply the catalyst and the adhesive applied to the wood. It's not like Cyano - there is time to get things right but grab time is around a minute or so. As previously said there's been quite a few before and I've only ever known one piece of angle beading to come off while wiping a cloth over a case, no doubt due to inadequate cleaning of the glass.
The wood was given three coats of a light mahogany stain before fitting then three coats of french polish rubbed back with 000 wire wool in situ. Time taken to mask the panels is worth it as it prevents a build up of polish on the glass - a tedious job to remove neatly.
The finished product, ready for use
What's going in it? Well it's destined to sit below a picture in my lounge of First World war SE5 aircraft. It will house either one two seater WWI aircraft (as yet to be made) or at present two single seat fighters...
A Sopwith Camel
...and SE5a - both seen here on their respective decorative bases, too large unfortunately to fit inside the case.
It is intended at some stage to make a dedicated groundwork base but in the meantime they are on their own
And that's it in place - quite some time since the idea was muted but another job ticked off the list. The Waller engine has had a permanent home there but now doesn't look right - that now has to be re-homed elsewhere.
Cased models do add a certain air and making one is not as difficult as it may be thought. If you have access to a decent circular saw it's a bonus but there are commercially pre-cut sections that could be used.
As always I hope that's of interest to someone. Any questions just ask, in the meantime I'm off to see where I was at with that flywheel
Regards to you all
Frum the ol shid - Ol Tug
