Peanuts, Popcorn,,Cracker Jacks

[Kim]

Them's some mighty fine looking parts there, Cletus! 

So, what's the story on one end cap having 5 bolts and the other end having only 4?  That's kinda asymmetrical! 
Kim

[b.lindsey]

Looking great Cletus. Glad you are feeling better and finding some shop time as well.

Bill

[crueby]

Great looking parts, glad the bug is gone!

[zeeprogrammer]

Very nice. What's your plan for the steam chest cover? Looks like you milled it down with an idea in mind.

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Tanks for the compliments guys. Kim, I really don’t know. To be honest, I only caught it when I was confirming the bolt circle diameter. Zee, really nothing in mind; I just kinda thought it looked good with the polished surface in contrast with the rough cast. Bill and Crueby, thanks. It does help feeling human again, I might even get in some afternoon shop time now   

Cletus

[propforward]

Fine parts Mr. Whisky sir, looking forward to the finished article.

[propforward]

May I suggest using an alternative photohosting service 

I think Photosuckit has made it clear that they still have no planned date for their parents marriage...

Jo

I can recommend smugmug for any lost souls wishing to flip the middle finger at photofailit. Sorry to go off topic on everyone.

[steamer]

Way to crank it out dawg!..

Dave

[Jasonb]

Looking Good.

The mix of bolt spacings is because you would have a job getting  a 5 bolt pattern to fir around the trunk guide flange as the top and bottom guides are in the way. It's quite a common practice, the Stuart 10 series engines also have it as well as full size examples.

Are you leaving the sand cast surface as rough as that or are you going to dress it down to a more scale texture before painting?

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Hey Prop, thanks for looking in. I saw your post about the bike accident and it’s great to see you made it and are back on two feet and still thinking about two wheels. Being a Harley owner of three, it’s a thought I worry over every time I mount up. You know the saying: “Pay Attention, bikers are “dying to be seen.” I almost went to jail over a 19 year old that was on her cell phone and pushed me over into a turn lane. When we got to the stoplight, I politely proceeded to kick a nice big dent in her door and told her to take that home to daddy and tell him it was from the mean old biker I almost killed today. She called 911 and I was stopped before I hit the city limits. I declared my case and since I knew the officer and he knew I was straight up,  he went back and cited her  . Jason, I want to try and just “polish up” the rough cast area. One of Creators big points of sale was the highly polished engine and it’s ancillaries on the popcorn wagon. I really would like for the only painting to be done on the plinth or base, however you choose to call it. Thanks also for the clarification on the bolt arrangements. I’m really surprised that nobody has caught the “mystery cock up”. Jason, actually I thought you would be the first. It’s nothing that can be “engineered around” , just have to work my way from the front to the rear now ( hint) . Y’all tell everybody I said how they doing and don’t forget your PPE

Cletus

[Tennessee Whiskey]

I thought y’all might want a little update. This morning I made the four 5-40x1” bolts for attaching the steam chest to the cylinder. I then clamped the chest to the cylinder, fixed the cover with a few drops of cyno and drilled tapping size for the 5-40’s, separated the parts, and drilled clearance holes in the chest and cover. I then bolted everything back together. Located the position of the valve rod and drilled the chest to accept the “spigot” for the valve rod and gland nut. The spigot was soldered in using TIX solder. As this engine probably will never see steam, this low temp solder will work and it flowed beautifully. The spigot was threaded 10-32. I did all of this without moving it’s position in the mill. I then turned and threaded the gland nut. I threaded the nut on the spigot and then drilled and reamed the required 7/64” hole for the valve rod all the way through the nut and spigot. I’m hoping this will insure a nice fit on the rod and not introduce any binding. Here’s y’all a “where it’s at” piccy. Thanks for stopping by guys.




Cletus

[Kim]

Nice looking family shot!  You're making some real progress, Eric!
Kim

[Dave Otto]

Looks great Eric!

Dave

[zeeprogrammer]

Here’s y’all a “where it’s at” piccy.

 

No question this corn will pop before mine does. 

[steamer]

I thought y’all might want a little update. This morning I made the four 5-40x1” bolts for attaching the steam chest to the cylinder. I then clamped the chest to the cylinder, fixed the cover with a few drops of cyno and drilled tapping size for the 5-40’s, separated the parts, and drilled clearance holes in the chest and cover. I then bolted everything back together. Located the position of the valve rod and drilled the chest to accept the “spigot” for the valve rod and gland nut. The spigot was soldered in using TIX solder. As this engine probably will never see steam, this low temp solder will work and it flowed beautifully. The spigot was threaded 10-32. I did all of this without moving it’s position in the mill. I then turned and threaded the gland nut. I threaded the nut on the spigot and then drilled and reamed the required 7/64” hole for the valve rod all the way through the nut and spigot. I’m hoping this will insure a nice fit on the rod and not introduce any binding. Here’s y’all a “where it’s at” piccy. Thanks for stopping by guys.




Cletus

Im digging it Cletus!    Keep it coming!

Vern