Author Topic: Zee Needs Popcorn  (Read 57290 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #405 on: August 31, 2018, 06:57:12 PM »
Marv, I am the one with the sherline, also Bill, Zee has a larger mill and lathe.
 The sherline chucks will go quite small.
Chris

Yes, I know that Chris.  But didn't the Zeester have a Sherline mill before he got the PM tools?
Thought it was a minimill. Could be wrong.

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #406 on: August 31, 2018, 08:33:33 PM »
I had a mini-mill and a mini-lathe. No Sherline.
Now I have a larger lathe and mill.

For years I'd thought about Sherlines. I'm still not sure why I didn't go that route.

the Zeester

"the Zeester"?  :lolb:
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline mklotz

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #407 on: August 31, 2018, 08:46:42 PM »
I had a mini-mill and a mini-lathe. No Sherline.
Now I have a larger lathe and mill.

For years I'd thought about Sherlines. I'm still not sure why I didn't go that route.


If the mini-mill provided high speed capability, why didn't you keep it?  Despite having a mill, I would never give up my Unimat for just that reason.
Regards, Marv
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Offline crueby

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #408 on: August 31, 2018, 08:50:24 PM »
I had a mini-mill and a mini-lathe. No Sherline.
Now I have a larger lathe and mill.

For years I'd thought about Sherlines. I'm still not sure why I didn't go that route.

the Zeester

"the Zeester"?  :lolb:
Be glad your nickname isnt 'Kee'


 :Lol:

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #409 on: August 31, 2018, 11:02:43 PM »
Zee, 0-1/4” drill chucks can be bought very reasonably. You can adapt them in many ways for tailstock applications

Eric

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #410 on: August 31, 2018, 11:07:44 PM »
@Marv: I don't think the mini-mill had very high speed either. If I recall...less than 2000. Same for lathe. Same for current machines.
Not that I wish now I had kept those machines. I think they would have been handy.

@Chris: Yes, I'm glad. But I do have another nickname that my wife and kids use.
A very endearing and loving nickname that only they use when they get upset with me.
It's "turd".
Any other meaning is attributed to differing cultures, countries, states and/or territories, cities, and neighborhood homes.  ;D Not to mention certain forums.

I got two parts made today. No 'in progress' pics. Both in stainless steel.
The manifold valve stem was particularly difficult to get the outer diameter threaded. Very often, the part started twirling in the chuck and I had to back out, clean up, tighten the chuck and continue.

This leads me to a question...I use Marv's equation (or a look-up table) for finding the drill needed for tapping.
But what is the diameter needed when threading with a die?
It doesn't seem to be the outer diameter of the thread.
In this case, I was threading (with a die) for a 1/4-40. The rod was exactly 0.250 (1/4) but I found I had to shave it down a few (several) thou to thread without the part twirling.

@Eric: Just saw your post. Yes, I figured I could find a chuck that would hold smaller bits. My old one did. When I looked closer at the one I have now, I think it's intended for 1/16-ish or larger. The main issue though is RPM. I can only get to 2000 and from what I'm seeing I need much higher for small bits. I wonder if I can do something with my dremel.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline crueby

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #411 on: August 31, 2018, 11:47:20 PM »
I've often run into the same problem on threading, and one thing I often do is file three flats onto the raw bar stock (sometimes just one) wide enough for the chuck jaws to grip on, then it holds like it would on hex stock. Even if those flats are not quite even, it wont matter as long as the turning and threading is done in one chucking. This is usually only needed on the smaller bars, threading things like 3-48 or 2-56, the larger ones seem to hold okay.

As for diameter, I usually look at the drill chart (I know, Marv does the formulas in his head, its easier for me to have it printed out) and look at the numbers in the columns  for brass and steel, and compare that to the major diameter of the thread. Then I'll take the diameter down below the major diameter about the same amount as the drilling would take it above that dimension. That seems to work well for me, for most work. If the thread is going to be under a lot of load, I'll take less off.

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #412 on: September 01, 2018, 02:42:37 AM »
As for diameter, I usually look at the drill chart (I know, Marv does the formulas in his head, its easier for me to have it printed out) and look at the numbers in the columns  for brass and steel, and compare that to the major diameter of the thread. Then I'll take the diameter down below the major diameter about the same amount as the drilling would take it above that dimension. That seems to work well for me, for most work. If the thread is going to be under a lot of load, I'll take less off.

That's what I'm looking for. Sort of. I'd like a bit more 'rule' if I can get it.  ;D
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline crueby

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #413 on: September 01, 2018, 03:45:57 AM »
As for diameter, I usually look at the drill chart (I know, Marv does the formulas in his head, its easier for me to have it printed out) and look at the numbers in the columns  for brass and steel, and compare that to the major diameter of the thread. Then I'll take the diameter down below the major diameter about the same amount as the drilling would take it above that dimension. That seems to work well for me, for most work. If the thread is going to be under a lot of load, I'll take less off.

That's what I'm looking for. Sort of. I'd like a bit more 'rule' if I can get it.  ;D
Rule 47.4, rules are flexible...   :Lol:   well, at least some rulers are...

Offline 10KPete

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #414 on: September 01, 2018, 03:47:03 AM »
If you measure a 1/4" commercial bolt you will find that it's like .020" smaller than 1/4". What I've done over the years is to just caliper a commercial bolt and turn the material to about that.

It's sorta like a tap drill...the usually show 75% thread. Same with the male thread.

Most threads nominal diameter is to a theoretical point, not the truncated thread top.

Lookin' good Zee!

Pete
Craftsman, Tinkerer, Curious Person.
Retired, finally!
SB 10K lathe, Benchmaster mill. And stuff.

Offline john mills

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #415 on: September 01, 2018, 08:25:34 AM »
the od of the thread is the maximum dia measured over the out side  nothing thearetical about it I have not turned threads undersize  they should be the full dia .the under size commercial threads are to very low standard wide tolerance even worse imported stuff we get now from hardware stores.if the die is too hard to cut screw cut but should not be hard in small sizes i have not generally turn undersize.the top of the thread can be a flat or radius depending on what form and how it is produced.

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #416 on: September 01, 2018, 12:19:23 PM »
I also use the full major diameter. I think you might need to be a little more aggressive on the chuck wrench. Also check the condition of your die and don’t forget a good grade of cutting oil. I mostly use the Oatley thread cutting oil found in the plumbing section of your local hardware or DIY store. One more thing; it really helps to have a good chamfer for the die to start on. 

Eric

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #417 on: September 01, 2018, 01:51:31 PM »
Thanks guys.

The die was newly bought and might have been used once or twice on brass. The quality may still be questionable.
Chuck was wrenched as tight as I could and cutting oil used.

Threading started well.

1/4-40 for half an inch.

After about 7 threads is when I ran into problems. To get through this I had to back out after 2 or threads, clean everything and have another go.

Is it wrong of me to believe I should have been able to thread in one go without backing off?

I know in tapping it's sometimes necessary to reverse a bit to break chips and sometimes back out all the way to clear chips.

Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline propforward

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #418 on: September 01, 2018, 01:56:05 PM »
I always back up periodically when using a thread die - that's how I was taught anyway - to break off chips forming in the die. Same as a tap, as you say. I don't know if you should be able to just run the die all the way down, but I like to back up periodically.
Stuart

Forging ahead regardless.

Offline john mills

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #419 on: September 01, 2018, 02:03:20 PM »
what is the material 1/4 by 40 tpi should cut easily. gun taps if you back off the tap will chip they are one were
should wind straight through.

 

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