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Had I made it that way, then I could have placed a flat on the cross head guide.
The idea is to counterbore the mouth of the cup so that the unthreaded part of the cap has a place to go. When this is done, the cap will thread on so that the gap between cap and cup disappears.In the future, remember that whenever you thread something up to a shoulder, you might want to do an undercut to eliminate the unfinished or imperfect thread immediately adjacent to the shoulder.I guess I don't understand the logic of an oil cup cap with a hole in it. Isn't the cap meant to prevent dirt getting in the oil? I've never seen one with a hole in the cap.How small was the drill called out in the plans? If you're going to build models, I'm afraid you will have to resign yourself to drilling tiny holes.
@Chris: A hole in the side seems to make more sense but for this oiler the hole would have to go through two sets of threads and line up.
Quote from: zeeprogrammer on August 31, 2018, 04:28:30 PM@Chris: A hole in the side seems to make more sense but for this oiler the hole would have to go through two sets of threads and line up.The hole goes through the side of the cap and intersects a blind hole in the threaded portion of the cap. The other end of this blind hole opens into the oil chamber.
1st is that I don't have the equipment to make tiny holes. So the holes for the oil is a bit large. Not a biggie. This engine isn't going to run for long periods of time.
Quote from: zeeprogrammer on August 31, 2018, 03:04:30 AM1st is that I don't have the equipment to make tiny holes. So the holes for the oil is a bit large. Not a biggie. This engine isn't going to run for long periods of time.I remember you using a Sherline mill. Surely that has the speed and chuck to handle small drills?
Marv, I am the one with the sherline, also Bill, Zee has a larger mill and lathe. The sherline chucks will go quite small.Chris