Author Topic: Zee Needs Popcorn  (Read 57420 times)

Offline Art K

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #240 on: July 31, 2018, 03:27:00 AM »
Ah yes adults, they don't know that they don't know any better.  :lolb:
Art
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Offline Steamer5

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #241 on: July 31, 2018, 07:00:37 AM »
Hi Zee,
I brought an Eccentric Enginnering tool sharpener. It has these..... Gary sent me this link to the ones he use...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231696707291?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Theses more sizes if you click the tool machine accessory button

I asked because I too had locked up the x axis, then in a. :old: moment just cranked the table handle & broke the handle on the lock in half.....they say confession is good for the sole. Now these little handles are sprung loaded so you can just kinda lift them & index by the hex of the bolt. As has been said, check as to the thread you have.

Cheers Kerrin
« Last Edit: July 31, 2018, 07:05:25 AM by Steamer5 »
Get excited and make something!

Offline kvom

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #242 on: July 31, 2018, 12:28:10 PM »
The X-axis lock on my Bridgeport is just a SHCS with a rod cross drilled in the head to provide leverage for fingers.  I never have to turn it too tight.  I rarely need to lock the Y axis.

Offline mklotz

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #243 on: July 31, 2018, 02:56:34 PM »
I have/had hinged locks like that on my mill/drill.  They didn't have the interference problem you have but they were awkward to reach.  Since I like to lock any unused axis when using the mill, the awkwardness was annoying.

I made a rod with a thread on the end that matched the lock thread.  To this I attached an orthogonal handle at the end.  This arrangement means that, when I want to lock Y, I simply drop my right hand, grab the convenient handle and pull up.  Very easy.

You may want to do something similar, although for different reasons.  Move the orthogonal actuator out beyond the shelf with which they currently interfere.

BTW...

I'm with Brian on the power tapping.  I wouldn't dream of attempting to power tap the typically tiny taps used on miniature engines.

Think about it... How much of your time is saved power tapping the twenty or thirty tapped holes on an engine compared with the time it takes to make a new cylinder or whatever because you broke off a tap in the first one?  (I won't compromise my standards and "hide" broken taps with fake bolts, etc..)

Now, if you're going to tap a lot of bigger holes in something like a fixture plate or tilting table, by all means buy the form tap. In that case, the time savings will be major and the chance of a broken tap minor.
Regards, Marv
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Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #244 on: July 31, 2018, 03:06:21 PM »
Thanks Kerrin. The star handled knobs look interesting.
Thanks Kirk. That's helpful.
Thanks Marv. Good point on power tapping. I'd be interested in a pic of your locking mechanism. It sounds like you only move the handle a short distance to go between locked and released.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline mklotz

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #245 on: July 31, 2018, 03:51:19 PM »
The orthogonal handle has a sleeve that can be tightened in any orientation onto the threaded rod that engages the table lock.  I nip up the rod to "just short of locked" and orient the handle downwards.  In this position, raising the handle by ~30 degrees fully locks the table.  Tapping the handle makes it fall downwards to rest on a table, thus releasing the table lock.

But don't think you need to duplicate my arrangement.  It's the concept of moving the actuator that matters.  Analyze your geometry and design your own.

Forming taps...

Jason has already mentioned that thread-forming taps are really only useful on ductile metals.  Cast iron is out of the question.  I'd be interested to know how much torque is required to drive one through steel.
Regards, Marv
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Offline Roger B

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #246 on: August 02, 2018, 08:33:34 AM »
Still following the banter and occasional machining  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1: Keep up the good work  :)
Best regards

Roger

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #247 on: August 03, 2018, 07:37:53 AM »
Zee you could try what are known as "Bristol Levers" over here and also called "ratchet lever handles", both mills in my workshop have them. The lever can be set at any angle when in the "lock" position and then just a small turn to loosen them enough to move the table. I have just put some video on ME forum showing some basic cuts if you look at those you will see me using the levers and how quick and simple they are to use. Currently bottom of this page

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=131318&p=2#PostTop

For power tapping you really want an easy way to start-stop-reverse the mill, some have a tapping function and buttons on the quill lever that make this easy and the electronic braking is set up so the spindle stops almost instantly. If not I would suggest using taps where the shank above the teeth is reduced to less than the thread core dia so that you won't overrun and jam the tap in the hole.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2018, 08:08:54 AM by Jasonb »

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #248 on: August 03, 2018, 02:31:57 PM »
Thanks Marv and Roger.
Thanks Jason. The 'ratchet lever handles' are what's on all the other axes. If it only takes a small amount of rotation to go between lock and release then that should work for X as well. But if the rotation is small enough then Marv's idea is very appealing.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #249 on: August 03, 2018, 03:30:39 PM »
If you wanna be really “cost efficient “ you can knock the pin out of the handle that’s there, drill a hole in the center of the piece that’s digging in and reinstall. Won’t dig in and still enough leverage to tighten the axis

Whiskey

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #250 on: August 03, 2018, 03:36:36 PM »
Or just round the end over.

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #251 on: August 03, 2018, 04:05:38 PM »
@Eric: I'm not sure I understand where the hole to be drilled is supposed to be.
@Jason: While that should stop the digging in, the handle sometimes comes up against the bolt head holding the base to the table.

P.S. @Eric: There's 'money cost efficiency' and 'aggravation cost efficiency'.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #252 on: August 03, 2018, 04:13:49 PM »
In other words, make a “T” handle using the parts that are there. Just move the hole to the longitudinal center of the flat handle part

Whiskey

Offline Mosey

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #253 on: August 04, 2018, 01:11:57 PM »
"Materials particularly well suited for thread forming include aluminum, brass, copper, lead, stainless steel, carbon steel, cast steel, leaded steel and zinc. In general, any material which produces a stringy chip is a good candidate for cold forming threads. If the chips are powdery, the material may be too brittle. Forming taps generate threads without producing chips. The threads produced are much stronger than those created by cut taps because of the displacements of the grain of the metal in the workpiece. Cutting taps produce chips which may interfere with the tapping process.

Thread forming taps are also known as: Fluteless Taps, Roll Taps & Cold Forming Taps. "


Quoted above is from MSC catalog for Balax taps.
Mosey (Still kicking) :old:

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Zee Needs Popcorn
« Reply #254 on: August 04, 2018, 01:35:45 PM »
Good to see you Mosey :)

Bill

 

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