Muncaster Grasshopper - Work in Progress

[b.lindsey]

Beautiful engine Kirk. Looking forward to seeing the final touches but the base looks great so far with the brickwork.

Bill

[Kim]

That's a really interesting way to make brick!
Kim

[Larry]

I have been waiting for this - CONGRATULATIONS ! Looks and runs great.

[kvom]

I received in the mail today the lovely Sanderson flywheel donated by Chuck Fellows.  I hadn't realized that it was already machined  with a 1/2" bore, so the first job is to remake the crankshaft to fit.  I turned down some 5/8" drill rod to 1/2" for the length of the flywheel hub, and after some finicky shaving got a nice sliding fit.



Test fit on the engine shows how much better it looks with this flywheel.



Normally I would have powder coated the spokes and hub, but I'm not sure how well it would adhere  to the grey paint.  In any case, the color seems harmonious.

Measurement shows that the bottom of the flywheel is 2.7" lower than the bottom of the base, so 3" brickwork seems the order of the day.  The outer edge of the flywheel is 1.5" from the edge of the base, which is 3.5" wide, so the brock base needs to be wider than 5" if I want the flywheel to be in a well.

Question for the knowledgeable:  In cases where the flywheel uses a well, is there a gap between the engine base and the wheel, or does the well have an inside wall separate?

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello kvom,

That new wheel is perfect for that engine, beautiful.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[cfellows]

For what it's worth, the paint on the flywheel is a special filler/primer.  It came in a rattle can but unfortunately I don't remember the brand or the name.

[b.lindsey]

Yes I agree, fits the engine size perfectly.

Bill

[cfellows]

Just did a little research and I believe the paint used was Plastikote filler / primer.

[kvom]

To attach the flywheel to the crankshaft, I decided to use a key on the assumption that the Dumont minuteman broach kit I bought at a show a while back could cut it.  Not wanting to screw up the flywheel, I drilled and reamed a 1/2" hole in some scrap cast iron to try it out.  The kit contains 3 broaches, 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 wide.  The 1/16 wide broach cut very easily, but the key was obviously too narrow for this use.  The 3/32 took more oomph on the arbor press and looked about right.  I tested the 1/8 broach over cutting the 3/32, and it looked too wide unless I wanted to shim for a second pass.  So I decided to use the 3/32.

Because the hub is so long, the broach doesn't quite make it all the way through, but since the key will be much shorter that doesn't matter.



For the corresponding slot in the crankshaft, I mounted it in a collet block and cut it .06" deep and .4" long with a 3/32" endmill (2000 rpm, .01 DOC).



For a temporary key, I whittled down a piece of brass until it fit.  I still need to remove the flywheel often, and this will be replaced by a steel key at a later date.

[crueby]

Great looking flywheel, perfect style for that engine.


 

[Craig DeShong]

First run on air

How can you NOT LOVE this.  Superb!

[Tennessee Whiskey]

I must’ve been on my way back from nowhere and missed the first run. Damn nice Kirk. Love the motion.

Whiskey

[kvom]

Currently trying to redo the two columns with a taper and capitals.  My lathe's taper attachment seems to be a bit out of sorts, and while it will cut a taper getting the taper to start in the proper place  is a no go.  I have two tapered sections in two pieces of aluminum rod, and I think I'll need to make the columns in 2 or 3 pieces.

[Jasonb]

Can't you just offset the tailstock and machine from one length. If you don't want to offset it use a boring head in the tailstock and a simple homemade ctr for it.

[Zephyrin]

Beautiful engine, top notch works...
the movement of these linkages to keep the piston rod in a straight line is fascinating to watch !