Flyboy Jims First Engine

[Don1966]

Nice runner Jim congrats. You may put another grub screw 180 from the first and work with them to true your flywheel. The grub screw wants to push the flywheel away from the shaft. If there is some movement between the shaft and flywheel it will increase the error once tighten.

Don

[zeeprogrammer]

I would also appreciate any input as to how I could of better handled the flywheel process in the first place (again for future projects).

I was hoping to see more of an answer to that. But here's my thoughts...(and remember, I don't have near the experience of these members I'm learning much from)...

You faced one side, then flipped and faced the other, without surfacing the outside rim. Right?
So I'm thinking, without the outside rim being true, when you flipped it and clamped down, the face against the chuck might not have stayed parallel to the chuck. It might have been at a slight angle which when drilled/reamed meant the hole was no longer square to the rim.

I might have...and here's where my more knowledgeable friends will jump on me in...

Face one side, drill/ream for the crankshaft, use that to hold the part (i.e. arbor), surface the rim, then flip and face the other side.

Full confession...I've yet to use an arbor. At least knowingly. 

[10KPete]

Zee has the program!!

Pete

[V 45]

Nice runner Jim !! I should've started with something A LOT easier on my 1st and continuing build. Nice job !!

[Flyboy Jim]

Boy, my knowledge base took a couple more steps forward today!

Roger, thanks for the info on tapered mandrels...........didn't even know they existed. Did a little research on them today.

Zee.....with what you described, along with what Cletus said about an arbor to simulate a flywheel's final destination, it all makes perfect sense now. When a person has something that isn't true anywhere, something has to be trued up and then work from there. There's definitely an order to it all. I had thought about that when dealing with castings (which I haven't done yet) but not with a roughed out piece like a flywheel. Duh! 

Don........I'll try a second grub screw on my flywheel. This is a good project to experiment with. If fact I'd thought about building Tubalcain's double acting wobbler next, but then realized it was almost like the engine I just built. I could just build a new cylinder for it that was double acting and use the rest of my engine.

V45...........I checked your project out. That is a real challenge!  I'll keep working my way through your thread.

I was going to try some of this new knowledge out, but then the UPS guy showed up with the contents of a box shown in pic #1!

Which opened up to expose the goodies in pic #2.

And then I had to try something out, which resulted in pic #3!

Jim

[Kim]

Cool! New tools!  You'll love the Rotary Table.  I've got one of those and its great!  Sherline makes some really nice accessories!
Kim

[10KPete]

On that second set screw, I'd like to suggest that locating it 90* from the existing might be better than having it 180*. 90* should tend to push the axle into the third 'corner' as it were and be a better kinematic situation. 180* might give two opposing pivot points and not cure any wobble. Just a thought....

Pete

[Ian S C]

I would agree with Pete about the placing of the grub screws. Another way of (sometimes) getting rid of wobble on flywheels, two grub screws on the same plane, but one either side of the FW, spaced as far apart as there is room. Normally with one screw it's off centre, and unless the FW is a push fit, there will be a little side movement.
Ian S C

[mklotz]

If you have a flywheel with spokes or, alternately, deep trepanning of the face, you can forego the arbor.


Mount flywheel to faceplate with studs between the spokes.

Machine face.

Fully machine rim.  A bit of sacrificial material twixt wheel and faceplate will allow you to fully machine the rim.

Drill/bore/ream axle hole to size.
[Remember: Drills make holes that are neither straight, round, or on size.  Drill to remove bulk of material, bore to straighten, then ream to size.]

Flip wheel.  Affix to faceplate as above and adjust so rim runs true.  Machine second face of wheel.

The procedure for a trepanned wheel is the same except that instead of clamping to faceplate, the wheel is held in the 4jaw with the inside jaws bearing on the inner surface of the wheel rim.

I've used all three methods but prefer the one above for spoked wheels and an arbor for other styles.  As always, make your own picks from the suggestions and create a procedure that fits your tools, patience and desire for precision.  Do, however, pay strong attention to what I said about drills.

A setscrew will always push a wheel slightly to the side.  That's why folks invented tapered keys and collet mountings.  If you must use setscrews, never mount two 180 degrees apart.  They will just fight each other.  Mount them at 90 degrees.

[Alan Haisley]

...
Another question: I bored a little undersize and then reamed my flywheel with a 3/16" import reamer. Would a .001 undersize reamer have given a noticeably better fit? Also Import vs Made in USA reamers?

Interesting question but the answer depends upon the crankshaft. What I mean is that even ground drill rod has variations in diameter, at least from manufacturer to manufacturer. I assume that you used 3/16" rod for the crankshaft. Measure it carefully with a micrometer as an aid in deciding how big to make the hole.
If it were me I wouldn't ream except for a bearing. If you bore it you can sneak up on the actual shaft size and get a wiggle free slip fit. If you mess up, bore it out bigger and loctite or solder a plug in, drill that, and bore again.
Alan

[Flyboy Jim]

Thanks once again to all for the input on my flywheel questions. I've learned a lot. Not only about flywheels, but how to deal with anything with a shaft. Now I intend to do my part and get it recorded in my new "Flyboy Jim's Machine Shop Notes" notebook. That way when that CRAST disease rears it's ugly head again I'll be able to look it up sometime in the future.........like tomorrow!    Then I'm going to roll over to Zee's Monitor engine thread and do the same thing with the tap info of the last few days, along with some I'd looked up a while back. 

Well at least that's what I say I'm going to do............we'll see how it works out.

After I got my latest tool order a couple of days ago I went back to work on my hold-down clamps that I'd started a while back. Pic #1

Got them finished up. Pic #2

Jim

 

[Xldevil]

Hello.
My metric version of mrpete222 spool valve engine
is not finished yet,but ready to be tested.
Runs nice,without any starting issues.
[youtube1]http://youtu.be/QyOoMaiPee4[/youtube1]
Cheers,Ralph

[Flyboy Jim]

That's a nice running engine Ralph. Thanks for posting the video. I really like seeing it at slow speed.  When it's all finished, be sure and post it over on the "Engines" thread in the Showcase.  That will get it good coverage and easy to find for others wanting to build it. (note to self: I need to do the same with my wobbler)

I'd like to build that spool valve engine myself, but am wrestling with just how to bore the cylinder on my Sherlines. There's a mounting plate available from Sherline that turns the Mill into a horizontal mill which I think would do the job.

Jim