Hauser Jig Borer

[Twizseven]

Been having a clean of the BCA.  Coming up nice and shiny using a bit of Solvol Autosol on the paintwork.  Should hopefully have t under power sometime on Monday.  Managed to check the collets.  Have a full set of  eleven collets 1/16" to 3/8" in 1/32". a 1/4" collet threaded for Clarkson end mills, a 6mm collet and a 10mm collet.  Need to keep eyes open for 3/8" threaded collet and would be nice to find 6mmand 10mm threaded.  If by any chance anyone has one of the above they wish to part with (unlikely I know) please message me.

If anyone is interested there is a BCA for sale on Ebay at the moment.  Item no.323228441028.  Three days 22hr to go and sat at £215.

Colin

[pgp001]

Tenga do the threaded collets at £75 each 

I thought I had got a full set of collets with mine, also going up in 1/32", then I discovered you can get ones going up in 1/64" as well. I have quite a few but annoyingly not a full set.
Good luck with finding any of those. Then you can start looking for the metric ones as well, they go up in 0.5mm increments. Unfortunately if you are like me you will not be happy until you have them all.

One watch out for you.......Be careful you dont buy Lorch 10mm collets by mistake, they look very similar.........Dont ask me how I know 

Phil

[Twizseven]

Gulp.

Thanks Phil.

I was going to give then a call, I not sure I will bother now.  I'm just glad its got 99% of the parts it was originally supplied with.

Colin.

PS I have been looking at the thread where you fitted DRO's to your jig borer. What did you use to make it so nice and shiny.

[pgp001]

The chap I bought it from had restored the machine, he worked at Bentley Motors in Crewe.
I reckon he would have used a fair bit of good old fashioned patience and elbow grease.

I must admit I thought it was too good to be true when I bought it, you know maybe just a quick paint job but totally worn out.
I stripped it down completely and found it to be absolutely spot on in every respect apart from needing a new Z axis feed-screw which he did tell me about.

I reckon you have dropped very lucky with yours by the way, they dont usually have any tooling included and you end up paying as much again to get it all.

Phil

[Twizseven]

We now have power.    She runs beautifully quiet.

Am I correct in assuming that the tension should be taken off the drive belt if it is not being used.

What is the best way to do this.  At the moment I have just pushed the spring tensioner in as far as can by hand and locked the clamp bolt.

As soon as release the clamp the tension will be back on the belt.  Or do people just pull the belt of the pulleys on the tensioner arm.

What is he best way to centre the rotary table under the spindle?  What tricks have you come up with to make this an easy repeatable task.

Colin

[pgp001]

Colin

I normally run the belt in the middle pulley most of the time as I have it powered from an inverter, so I just pop the belt off the middle pulley onto the small pulley on the spindle to relax the tension when not in use.

As for finding the centre, I have a dead length setting bar that is used on both X and Y axis to do this quickly, it is repeatable to within a thou or so which is fine for most jobs, I also leave both the dials set to zero for that position as well so a combination of setting bar and dials gets me there, otherwise it is back to a verdict dial gauge and the centre hole clocking system if I need it to be any better.
Once zero'ed I set the X and Y to zero on the DRO as well.

Phil

[Twizseven]

Phil,

I must admit I had wondered about making some setting gauges.

You commented earlier about Lorch Long collets not being the same.  Yet I have seen other people say they are.  What is he difference?

Colin