Author Topic: Textile Mill Diorama  (Read 66591 times)

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #600 on: September 05, 2018, 09:17:50 PM »
Hi Bill. Thanks.
A good question. When I bought steel balls for the Benson, four came in the packet, so I had two 9/16 steel ones left. They were smaller than the steel ones I used on the Stuart beam engine, but I thought they would do. But upon assembly, they looked too small, so I scrounged around and found the pair of  5/8" bronze balls the steel ones replaced on the beam engine.

Carl, I modified the design of the jig a bit. I added a centre bolt to stop the bars from arcing downward at each end.

The beauty of this jig is that I could change diameters at will without any modifications to the holding apparatus. If I had made a dedicated jig for the 9/16" balls, I would have to make another one for the 5/8" ones.

Of course, those with a full set of collets for their collet chucks would roll their eyes at this homemade route. I must admit though, having both a 9/16" and a 5/8" collet around would not be a bad thing.


« Last Edit: September 05, 2018, 09:22:06 PM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #601 on: September 07, 2018, 01:28:46 AM »
A governor without a home... yet.

I was hoping to receive that replacement strap from Australia to complete this engine now. It looks as though I'll be puttering with other diorama features for awhile.


Online 10KPete

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #602 on: September 07, 2018, 03:28:15 AM »
John, that's beautiful unit!!

 :cheers:

Pete
Craftsman, Tinkerer, Curious Person.
Retired, finally!
SB 10K lathe, Benchmaster mill. And stuff.

Offline Kim

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #603 on: September 07, 2018, 04:51:26 AM »
That looks very nice John!
I assume it will go round and round, up and down, but won't actually control anything?
Very nice!
Kim

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #604 on: September 07, 2018, 08:12:45 AM »
Thanks Pete.

Hi Kim,
No, actually the governor will be operational. There is a butterfly valve above the steam valve chest that will be linked to the govvernor's spool. I was thinking of something like a Hemmingway style 'U' shaped base that would sit independently in front of the engine. A lot of linkage issues to work out there yet.

But that's a long way down the road. If the eccentric strap casting has been lost in the mail, I will have to source out some brass bar stock to proceed..


Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #605 on: September 07, 2018, 03:40:58 PM »
I'm not historically correct with my fittings (no flanges), but I will make an attempt to simulate the plaster/asbestos wrapped pipes from the boiler room on the long runs.
« Last Edit: September 07, 2018, 10:14:07 PM by J.L. »

Offline BAH

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #606 on: September 07, 2018, 08:22:25 PM »
An Alum and water mix will eat that tap out of the bronze casting. Took about three or four days to and it was sludge so it saved my piece, and saved me ordering a replacement from Australia . You can get Alum powder from any place that has canning supplies. I think I got my container from the pharmacy in my town (small town).
If you make a saturated mix, place the part in and heat the liquid you will save your part. It just wonít work in ferrous metals, but bronze, brass, aluminum, it works.
Lots of info on google and itís very safe to do. 

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #607 on: September 07, 2018, 10:13:26 PM »
 Thanks for the info, but we are long past that possibility. Trying to remove the drill damaged the part beyond use.

Today I acquired a 1/4" bar of brass two inches wide. Maybe starting from scratch will be a good thing as I can now control the shape and function of the part.

Offline Kim

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #608 on: September 08, 2018, 01:40:52 AM »
...the governor will be operational. There is a butterfly valve above the steam valve chest that will be linked to the govvernor's spool. I was thinking of something like a Hemmingway style 'U' shaped base that would sit independently in front of the engine. A lot of linkage issues to work out there yet.

But that's a long way down the road. If the eccentric strap casting has been lost in the mail, I will have to source out some brass bar stock to proceed..

That's going to be pretty amazing!
Now that you re-show those pictures, I remember when you made that.  I just didn't make the connection.

Very nice John, as always!
Kim

Offline BAH

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #609 on: September 08, 2018, 02:03:25 AM »
Thanks for the info, but we are long past that possibility. Trying to remove the drill damaged the part beyond use.

Today I acquired a 1/4" bar of brass two inches wide. Maybe starting from scratch will be a good thing as I can now control the shape and function of the part.

Oh, thatís a bit of a bummer. Oh well, maybe next time (hopefully no next time ).
Your builds are awesome, love the details. Thanks for sharing.

Offline Ian S C

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #610 on: September 08, 2018, 02:02:26 PM »
A couple of years ago I needed some Alum to remove a bit of broken tap from some brass, so I went to the Chemist shop, being a modern shop, no chemicals, so they ordered some, and I got about 10 grams. Mean while I was looking through the garden chemical etc., and found 2 500 gm bags that Mum had bought at the garden shop.
Ian S C

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #611 on: September 08, 2018, 06:46:07 PM »
Thanks guys.

Hi Ian,
My wife, in the recent process of making pickles, just used a lot of alum.  ;)

Here's a tip for anyone who has a 1" sanding belt machine. The 1" metal platen behind the belt makes it impossible to use the machine to sand in tight places. Because I hate filing and am not good at it at all, I'll do almost anything to avoid it.

Tip:

1. Remove the planen.

2. Cut the belt to the required thickness required (Photo 1).

3. To remove metal, you need support behind the belt or it will flex back and be ineffective. Clamp a piece of metal to the table behind the belt the thickness of the belt. This will give you something to push against as you gently profile the part. (photo 2)

4. Remove the metal support and finish the job by letting the belt now flex  and follow the curves.

You end up with curves that are smooth, perpendicular to the faces and finely finished. If I attempted to shape these tight curves with a file, you'd know it!


« Last Edit: September 09, 2018, 01:32:52 AM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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Eccentric Strap
« Reply #612 on: September 09, 2018, 01:41:33 PM »
I mentioned that a replacement cast eccentric strap was kindly sent to me by Ben de Gabriel of E and J Winter Models. It may be still in the delivery system, but I wish to proceed at this time as seen in the recent photos.

Ben suggested that if I could find gunmetal as the material of choice, it would aid lubrication as it contains a certain amount of lead. I did not know this. My friendly machine shop, however, did have a piece of 2" brass bar.

Here we see the first of the original two straps operating the pump's ram. The second photo shows the second fabricated brass strap being cut in half.

Thank you Ben, for your kind customer service. In good faith, you sent me the replacement part as early as possible. That was very much appreciated.

John


Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #613 on: September 09, 2018, 02:17:45 PM »
 :)


Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #614 on: September 09, 2018, 02:42:47 PM »
Still following along John. About the time you finish up on the bar stock replacement part the casting will show up....never fails....l

Bill