Textile Mill Diorama

[J.L.]

Thanks Tom. Notice the 'bread loaf' curve on the top of the bricks.    I laughed when you told me that some fellows run a piece of sandpaper or a file across the top of the mold before removing them. Very diplomatic way of telling me what would I should have done.

The water gauges are next. I will be using clear acrylic 3/16" OD tubing for the sight glasses. I've never been good with cutting glass.

They have valves at top and bottom. Here are a series of photos shows making them. Rather than thread them, I made a jig and just rounded the rod with a file until a #0-80 brass nut would slide over.

I'm very lucky that the handle levers did not break off when tapped 85 degrees cold with the tack hammer.
 

[J.L.]

I thought it would be wise to assure everyone that there is a horizontal mill engine in the works for this diorama. A lot of time has been spent in the boiler room, but once we get past the fire wall, things should start happening with the castings.

On March 5, a Bolton No. 7 horizontal mill engine with a bore of 1 1/2" and a stroke of 2" was ordered from Bolton Scale Models, in Bathurst, NSW Australia. On March 14 the package was delivered to my door.

That hunk of cast iron in the back of the second shot looks rather intimidating, especially when you consider that I have been drilling holes with a magnifying loupe for # 0-80 bolts and nailing countless 18 gauge escutcheon pins in place for over two weeks now.

The kit is excellent. It was supplied with 41 pages of construction notes written by  Ernest Winter in 1992.

The original drawings were made by O.B. Bolton in 1946! They are larger than full size.

[deltatango]

Hi John, I'm glad that the package got to you so quickly and looking forward to following the rest of the build.

Can you show us the rest of the castings in that package?

DT

[b.lindsey]

Looks like some cast iron machining is in your future John. Will be fun to follow.

Bill

[J.L.]

Hi David,
Here are some of the castings in gunmetal and cast iron.

Hi Bill,
Well, I don't intend to machine all of these castings. In the second photo, I'm holding a bearing block that to me, would be far better made from scratch with clean, crisp bar stock. I can see why some guys would rather do this than try to coax a lump of metal into shape.

The third photo also is a mystery if you are into realistic dioramas. I've never seen a connecting rod made out of soft gunmetal. It would be fine if this engine were intended for display with gleaming brass and bronze, but a hardworking mill engine in a textile mill would have steel (or cast iron in the earlier days) driving its piston.

[J.L.]

At first, I didn't think I would be able to make handles for the cock valves at the bottom of the water gauges. But then I thought of taking 1/6" brass rod and hammering its end against the anvil of the bench vice. Voila! It mushed outward at the end as it was being struck by the ball peen hammer.

An instant handle! Once bent at 90 degrees, it fit into a cross drilled hole through a 1/8" collar.

All the gauges need now are sight glasses. The acrylic tubing is coming from California.

 I just love it when local hobby suppliers are unable to get small items.

 "Oh no, You'll have to get that on the internet..."

[crueby]

Looks good! Sometimes a hammer is just the right precision tool.  If you need to get it thinner than it wants to go after a few blows, heat it red and cool it, that will aneal the brass again and let it form more without cracking.


 

[b.lindsey]

Nice looking castings John. I like how the parting (cut) lines are cast into the eccentric straps and bearing stands as a guide. Wish more casting sets had this feature.

Bill

[J.L.]

Thanks Chris. You gave a great tip about heating the brass and allowing it to cool. As I said, I was lucky bending the larger levers cold without them cracking.

Yes Bill, the parting lines give a nice reference.

While we are on the topic of castings, I must state here before I beginn to build the engine, that I will not be able to do the heavy bull work on it. I have already sent the flywheel out to be machined.  My health has dictated that I step back a bit now. I enjoy the small stuff and will be able to machine some of the simpler parts.

Being able to go downstaris to the shop is still enjoyable.  I want it to stay that way.

John

[b.lindsey]

I totally agree John....do what you enjoy and farm out the rest. When it ceases to be fun it's time to find a new hobby!!

Bill

[J.L.]

Kind words Bill. Thanks.

So now the diorama layout begins. That protoype in the background has been great in getting an overall picture of where we are going.

This engine is larger than antiipated with other model possibilities at the time, so upscaling a bit is easy to do.

March 22, 2018

John

[Jasonb]

It's good to see some more of the castings John and now I won't have to keep quiet and worry about letting the cat out of the bag having been in on the chosen engine since I identified it for you a while back.

Actually that bearing looks quite good and don't be put off by what looks like an oval boss, by the time it has been cut through and machined back that will look round. As for GM conrods like you I would prefer them not to be included in the kit as I don't like to pay for things I too would not use.

[J.L.]

Thank you for holding back on the engine chosen for the diorama Jason!

It would not have happened without your keen eye and instant identification.

Today, the acrylic 3/16" clear tubing arrived!

A piece of 3/32" brass rod was used to prevent it from being crushed in the vice while cutting it to length.

[Ramon Wilson]

Nice work John and very convincing 

Keep it coming 

Tug

[ddmckee54]

I obviously have to get help.  Every time I see that boiler I flash back to the movie "Cannery Row" with Nick Nolte and Debra Winger, and her living in the fire box that boiler.

Setting aside my mental issues, that's still a nice looking fake boiler shell.

Don