Author Topic: Textile Mill Diorama  (Read 112403 times)

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #60 on: March 15, 2018, 03:50:22 PM »
John just  a thought on the bolts/nut, from my plastic modeling days you could buy a punch and die set that could be used to make hexagonal shapes from plasticard. This option may work out cheaper and quicker for you if you can get them in the right sizes as they are more for smaller scale AFV work.

This sort of thing https://peterhamann.com/2014/03/01/rp-toolz-hexagonal-punch-and-die-set/

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #61 on: March 15, 2018, 05:33:16 PM »
Hi Jason,
That is a very good suggestion for representational hex nuts and bolts if they are to be painted, which I have done with the steel ones. Thanks link to that link.

Here are the brass hex nuts in #0-80 that will be used to fasten the brass flanges on the site valves and the pressure guage.

I have begun to make the cradle for the boiler. It will be bricked on its face and along the sides of the shell. From the pictures I've seen, they liked to paint the bricks around the face of the boiler white.


Online wagnmkr

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #62 on: March 15, 2018, 06:13:23 PM »
Looking Good John!

Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #63 on: March 15, 2018, 06:31:36 PM »
They may also have used glazed bricks at lower levels though teh gloss can look a bit out of scale on a small model.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #64 on: March 16, 2018, 02:11:36 PM »
Good point Jason.

These progress shotss with the bricks show what appears to be rather rough work. The handmade bricks are not exactly all the same thickness. They also have to be applied stacked rather than simply glued face-on like slip bricks. So you will see a little strip of separating white card lying on top of the bricks on the right side of the boiler.

So, to clean things up, I will be using a course large wood file to smooth all the bricks to a uniform face width. It's a luxury with these thick bricks.

Once grouted, I think things will improve dramatically.


Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #65 on: March 16, 2018, 02:44:26 PM »
Even as a faux boiler it looks very authentic John, probably even moreso that if it were a real boiler since you can take a few more liberties with materials, etc.  It's really coming together !!!

Bill

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #66 on: March 16, 2018, 06:58:51 PM »
Thanks Bill.

The front face bricks have now been dressed and are ready for grout.  But first, the rows of bricks along each side of the boiler have to be put in place.

Offline Ramon Wilson

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #67 on: March 16, 2018, 10:53:56 PM »
My word John that's a tidy bit of work in such a short time - you must be well pleased with that result  :ThumbsUp:

Glad those pics were useful - yes they were taken year before last - that's Sue studying the finer points of gauge glasses  :D

Following along with great interest in seeing how you approach things

Regards - Tug
"I ain't here for the long time but I am here for a good time"
(a very apt phrase - thanks to a well meaning MEM friend)

Offline Steamer5

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #68 on: March 17, 2018, 06:58:54 AM »
Hi John,
 Missed the start of this thread, I was swanning around at the beach!

Just caught up & as usual coming along very nicely! Was going to post up the Tower Bridge boiler pick taken a few years back, but Tugs one are very similar.

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #69 on: March 18, 2018, 05:43:00 PM »
Thanks Kerrin. And thanks for the thought of posting a picture of the Tower Bridge Boiler. Tug also posted diagrams of a Lancashire boiler front and side views earlier that have been invaluable in designing the fittings.

Two dampers at the back of the boiler controlled air flow in the brick flues.  Cutting the slots was just a lucky happenstance. There was enough open space between the supports below!

Note: That hole is the hole for the air line into the boiler.


« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 05:46:23 PM by J.L. »

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #70 on: March 18, 2018, 07:45:08 PM »
The brick work is coming along nicely John!!

Bill

Offline J.L.

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Flanges vs. Threads
« Reply #71 on: March 18, 2018, 08:12:31 PM »
Thanks Bill,

I'm rather jumping around a bit here, but wanted to addresss the steam valve issue on top of the boiler. Steam pipes almost always were joined together with flanges and bolts. However, modern scale model valves, elbows, and tees are most often threaded. Such is the case with PMR cast fittings.

I probably will break down and use the threaded fittings, but while still in the boiler room, I wanted to replicate the use of flanges. So these photos show a faux flange being fitted to a threaded stop valve. I could have turned off the hex portion to make the flange smaller, but decided to recess it in the flange.

Too bad metal model elbows and tees are not cast with flanges. It would make the steam models far more historically correct. There are plastic tees and elbows available in smaller scales (i.e. HO), but they can only be used for small model display work.

 
« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 08:46:14 PM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #72 on: March 18, 2018, 08:43:44 PM »
The modified valve...

Offline J.L.

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Top Boiler Fittings
« Reply #73 on: March 18, 2018, 09:38:21 PM »
Here are the fittings on top of the boiler.

The Junction Valve or Steam Valve is removable at this point. It will be internally hooked up to an air line when the diorama walls go up.


Online wagnmkr

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #74 on: March 18, 2018, 09:46:13 PM »
That is looking pretty nice to me John. Those bricks look good as well.

Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!

 

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