Author Topic: Textile Mill Diorama  (Read 112366 times)

Offline J.L.

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Water Pressure
« Reply #570 on: August 22, 2018, 10:16:54 PM »
Thanks Chris. Appreciated.

I have drilled the second hole in the pedestal for the delivery pipe to the boiler.

I have a question about the water that is being pressurized and delivered by the engine's pump. When the engine is running, the pump never stops.

In my mind, this creates a problem. If you have a shut off vave at the boiler, that is not going to stop the water pressure from increasing. The  pressure continues to build as the ram pumps water. What prevents the pipes from bursting?

To prevent the pipes from exploding, there must be some way of diverting the water being pumped back into the river or some other reservoir. Does that mean that someone has to physically be present to watch a water pressure gauge and manually divert the water?

Curious.  :thinking:


Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #571 on: August 22, 2018, 10:28:08 PM »
Looks good John. Smoke and mirrors are fine too  ;)

Bill

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #572 on: August 22, 2018, 10:49:18 PM »
There are several different ways of doing that.  It could be a simple as a manual bypass valve to send the extra water back to the tank or to a drain when the desired boiler level was reached.  If the steam usage isn't too high it will probably be a manual system.  On a larger system that would go through a lot of water, an automatic fill system could have been built using floats inside the boiler water jacket to control both the boiler level and the bypass.  Either way you are still going to have a boiler operator going by at regular intervals to be sure the boiler is running OK and not going to go BOOM.

In the older more manual systems it is a balancing act between having a hot enough fire to have the steam when you need it and yet not wasting fuel by generating more steam than you need.

Don

Offline crueby

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #573 on: August 22, 2018, 11:54:56 PM »
On Kozo's design for his Shay (and I am sure in many other places, that is just the one I know) he has a valve on the water line into the boiler to allow controlling the flow. There is a check valve going into the boiler after the valve, so that the pumped water has to push open the ball valve to push its way into the boiler. When the control valve is open, the water has an easier path back to the water tank, and the check valve keeps the pressure inside the boiler.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #574 on: August 23, 2018, 11:08:55 AM »
Thanks Bill and Don.

Yes, Chris, when I was researching the boiler, I encorporated a lot of the items you are mentioning into its design.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #575 on: August 23, 2018, 05:31:05 PM »
The pump piping is now in place with a steel (plastic) split floor plate.

I installed a tee in the line so that the fellows in the engine room could add a spigot to draw water if they so desired.




Offline J.L.

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Drain Cocks
« Reply #576 on: August 23, 2018, 08:43:49 PM »
My water heater has a safety blow off valve with an attached pipe that blows down if necessary.

I have seen drain cocks either joined together with a tee and a down pipe, or each cock with its own pipe curving and travelling downward.

So, it is assumed that condensed water in the cylinder could be safely diverted.

I was planning on having a copper pan placed under the exhaust pipe. Over time, I assume the pan would accumulate sludge of oil and water. I wouldn't want water from the drain cocks to blow into this pan as well. It could create quite a mess.

So does it sound reasonable to separate the two systems and have the larger exhaust pipe exit into the pan and the smaller pipes go down through the concrete pedistal and presumabley vent below? 

I like the idea of the exhaust pipe venting into the pan on the pedestal. You can hear the exhaust.

Of course, the other option is to do nothing with the drain cocks at all and assume they can be safely blown off into open air.

Thoughts?


« Last Edit: August 24, 2018, 09:27:50 PM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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Line Shaft Hangers
« Reply #577 on: August 27, 2018, 09:32:44 PM »
While waiting for some fittings, I thought I'd have a go again at line shaft hangers.

They are quite interesting to make. The first photo was taken today, but I found some old photos of them I used in a couple of jokes.

In the third photo, the bearings are just wandering aroung trying to get their bearings...

In the fourth photo the bearing with the 'white hat' does not want to be the one up front to tell the others that they are about to get the shaft...

Sorry about that.


« Last Edit: August 27, 2018, 10:21:58 PM by J.L. »

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #578 on: August 27, 2018, 10:14:13 PM »
 :facepalm2:
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Offline crueby

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #579 on: August 27, 2018, 10:28:47 PM »
 :ROFL:

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #580 on: August 28, 2018, 02:09:12 PM »
With this kind of projecct on the go, it's easy to keep several irons in the fire at the same time.

I continue to find the threading device very handy for the threading of small holes. Here, a # 1-72 tap is being threaded into a #53 hole in the cap of a hanger just to see if there will be enough clearance when it is enlarged.

Also some beamwork is beginning in anticipation of flooring and the mounting of lights and hangers.

As well, the piping is being brought in from the boiler room to hook up with the steam chest valve.

Note the unforgiving camera eye has picked up on the uneven studs protruding from the valve chest flange. Never noticed this until I saw it in the photo.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2018, 02:13:05 PM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #581 on: August 28, 2018, 07:30:16 PM »
A little .026" jeweller's circular saw made short work of cutting the top portions of the hangers.

Offline J.L.

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Line Shaft Bearings
« Reply #582 on: August 29, 2018, 08:11:38 PM »
A generous amount of 3/8" square brass was provided in the line shaft hanger kit for chucking.

The first step shown here is the milling of the track slots for the bearings.


Offline J.L.

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The Line Shaft Hanger Bearings
« Reply #583 on: August 29, 2018, 10:12:13 PM »
Before leaving the mill/drill I located centre of the bearings and drilled a 1/8" hole followed by a #2 centre drill that created a chamfer that will help centre the bearing on a dead centre in the 4-jaw chuck.

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #584 on: August 29, 2018, 10:32:26 PM »
I'm watching closely.

Not just in admiration...but I learn a lot here.

I have some of those line shaft hangers. I have the model lathe as well and would like to do a small diorama.
Yet another project on my list.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

 

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