Author Topic: Textile Mill Diorama  (Read 112314 times)

Online Kim

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7862
  • Portland, Oregon, USA
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #420 on: July 07, 2018, 04:24:46 PM »
That's a pretty slick idea John - to use the sandwich to cut the thin brass strip.  I assume it worked out OK? The spray adhesive was plenty to keep things together for the sawing job?

Kim

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #421 on: July 07, 2018, 05:38:30 PM »
Yes Kim, the 3M spray adhesive works like a charm. It really holds until you need to release it. It's also good for sticking paper templates onto metal for profiling.

Another advantage to sandwiching is the ease with which holes can be drilled into thin material.

Drilling holes in thin metal, especially brass, as we all know, can be very dangerous. If the drill grabs the thin metal and the metal starts spinning, you've got a problem.

Safety first. The sandwiching takes the drill down into the supporting material and engages the metal and creates a clean hole.

Note: When cutting metal on a table saw in this manner, be sure to wear a faceshield. Little shards of metal are ejected from the kerf of the supporting wood.

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #422 on: July 07, 2018, 07:03:28 PM »
The top of the cylinder will be quite visible when viewed from above, so I thought a little bling would dress up the banding.

I ordered brass hex headed #3-48 1/4" bolts and washers.

Jason, you were right about the JB Weld becoming a problem if a tap skittered between cast iron and the exoxy filler. I could feel the softness of the material as I was threading for these little bolts.

The faux steel studs and nuts were the way to go with this filler.

Actually Jason, I think it was you that gave me the idea of co-ordinating the brass banding with brass fittings. Thanks.

Offline crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #423 on: July 07, 2018, 07:24:33 PM »
That sets off the wood color very well!
 :popcorn:

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13860
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #424 on: July 07, 2018, 07:34:25 PM »
Beautiful John. Live the contrast!!

Bill

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #425 on: July 07, 2018, 08:49:31 PM »
Thank you very much Chris and Bill.

The drain cocks also add a nice touch of brass, but they won't be seen by viewing the diorama from the front. But when we go around back, we will see them through the window or the open door in the woodworking shop.

Cheers...John

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Diorama Shots
« Reply #426 on: July 07, 2018, 10:21:06 PM »
Chris,I was asking about a base for your steam shovel project.

It's great that it is in the middle of the room for easy access to all sides.

Here's a shot of the stainless steel table I purchased for the textile mill diorama. It will require stablilzers before the model becomes operational.

Also some shots of the diorama from angles not previously shown.




Offline crueby

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18559
  • Rochester NY
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #427 on: July 07, 2018, 11:13:09 PM »
Great looking table, where did you find it?
For transporting the shovel, thinking maybe one with larger wheels for parking lots, folding for getting in the car. Maybe just its own trailer, complete with dirt pile... 

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #428 on: July 07, 2018, 11:54:27 PM »
Hi Chris,
It's a stainless steel Hubert table.
Sent you a PM.
John

Offline zeeprogrammer

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6811
  • West Chester, PA, USA
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #429 on: July 07, 2018, 11:58:02 PM »
You're another member that's difficult to keep up with and whose work is fascinating.
Fantastic stuff and, as I've said before, inspirational.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #430 on: July 08, 2018, 02:01:39 PM »
Your comments are very much appreiated Carl.  Thank you.

But really Carl, I am but an amateur in this august company.

The studs for the valve chest were made from #5-40 bolts. The heads were cut off and threaded just enough to let the nut lock itself when being threaded into the receiving hole in the cylinder cover.

I really like the scale model nuts that can be purchased from Amerian Model Engineering. The top of the nuts have a nice curved edge and the botttoms are flat. But to prevent the sharp edges from scoring a painted surface, they have a tiny round shoulder. I'm not sure but I think they are called 'lands'.



Offline 10KPete

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1606
  • Nordland, WA, USA
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #431 on: July 08, 2018, 04:32:50 PM »
Beautiful work, John! That's called a washer-faced nut...

Pete
Craftsman, Tinkerer, Curious Person.
Retired, finally!
SB 10K lathe, Benchmaster mill. And stuff.

Offline J.L.

  • Rest In Peace
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2113
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #432 on: July 08, 2018, 04:43:03 PM »
Thanks Pete. A nut with a built in washer. I was referring to the raised shoulder you are calling a washer as being called a 'land'.

Maybe because the nut lands on the surface being secured.  :Lol:

Edit:
I looked up the word 'land'. I wasn't far from being right. Lands refer to raised metal. In a rifle barrel, the definition is:

"The metal between the grooves is called a "land".
« Last Edit: July 08, 2018, 05:21:58 PM by J.L. »

Offline john mills

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 417
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #433 on: July 08, 2018, 11:06:31 PM »
hi John your doing a great job .
in machinery hand book it refers to the face as washer face the top at 30 deg  .That is american std but that is what i have always known as nut std  ordinary nuts have 30 deg chamfer both sides  some nuts have a washer face. from when i did fitting and turning as an apprentice that is what i was told the way to make them. These days fasteners coming from china they can be any thing.we do get washer nuts where the water part is bigger than the points of the hex.
It looks like your supplier is making proper nuts.

Offline Ramon Wilson

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1942
  • Suffolk in the UK
Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #434 on: July 08, 2018, 11:41:14 PM »
Hi John just caught up - everything looking very 'tickety boo' as they say  :ThumbsUp:

Wonder if I might offer you a tip for when setting the valve. This idea was passed to me by forum member George  'KBC' and proves a god send when valve setting.

Instead of threading the valve rod and nut, keep the valve rod smooth with a nicely fitting a hole in the valve nut to suit. Tap the nut to take a small grub screw. This allows infinite adjustment of the valve rather than half a tread length but more importantly you don't have to keep taking the valve chest off or breaking the valve rod link in order to do so. I did this on my D10 on Georges suggestion and can vouch for it's ease of operation  :ThumbsUp:

Hope I'm not teaching Granny here but it's mentioned in good faith  :)

Regards - Tug
"I ain't here for the long time but I am here for a good time"
(a very apt phrase - thanks to a well meaning MEM friend)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal