Textile Mill Diorama

[J.L.]

Hi Don,

Excellent point. 

I hadn't thought of capturing the cover from mishap while removing it.

I know that on my wood lathe chuck, you coud specifiy what threaded adapter you needed to insert in the back of the chuck to fit your spindle threads. My General had a 1" x 8 TPI arbour screwed into the back of the chuck. It came with three socket head lifting screws. Once that arbor was bolted into  the chuck, just removing the bolts to get it off wasn't enough. You couldn't get it out without turning those three recessed socket headed cap screws.

Edit: I misspoke. Threaded holes are in the back of the arbour ready to receive bolts to separate the arbour from the chuck. The three socket headed cap screws mount the tapered arbor.

[J.L.]

This morning I machined the grooves in the crosshead shoe.

This engine will be used for light duty and brass may be okay for the material. However, since this crosshead is being built in sections, if it wears out, it can be easily removed and replaced with another one. This option would not be possible if the crosshead were machined out of one piece of gunmetal. A whole new crosshead would have to be worked up.

With this design, two flat head countersunk socket screws will mount the shoe from below.

A test sled was set up to test the fit of the shoe in the slide bars.

[J.L.]

I think this first picture tells volumes about working up cast parts (sometimes) vs working with bar stock. You can see immediately why the casting was rejected. However, the gunmetal may be used to make a bearing later.

A square bearing block fits into the recess in the crosshead block.

The recess was sawn rather than milled.

The set screw (first photo) will not be expected to hold the piston rod; it will be used to only set the rod's location. Then a pin will be installed.

[J.L.]

Man it's hot out there! Hottest day on record I believe.

What bettr day to feature a purely Canadian invention - the Robertson square drive socket headed screw.

Here, two are being used to fasten the brass shoe to the crosshead block.

[crueby]

Hotter than baked swarf here too, pushing high 90s at least today. Good day to work in the basement!

[b.lindsey]

You guys are actually getting more of the heat wave than the south. Only a high of 90 here today but still humid.

Bill

[J.L.]

Yes Chris, the basement is the place to be. Even with air on, coming upstairs I notice the heat.

Hi Bill,
It is now 32 degrees C. feeling like 43 degrees C. They closed the roof at the Rogers Centre for the Blue Jay's game this afternoon.

John

[J.L.]

The parts...

[Tennessee Whiskey]

1. Parts and everything looking spectacular. Awesome attention to detail
2. The Robertson screw is now the standard fastener on every RV in the US
3. Hot and extremely humid here: to the point that it has spawned some very nasty and devastating storms. I have 10 tons of A/C running in my shop and they never turned off today.
4. Carry on so I can follow along 

Cletus

[J.L.]

Hi Cletus,

Thanks. Interesting fact about the RV use of Robertson socket head screws. Henry Ford rejected them in Detroit when he set up shop. He wanted royalty rights as well I believe.

Here is the finished crosshead.

[J.L.]

A rabbetted flat strip of red oak at the back of the diorama (the workshhp side) seemed to be enough to trim the edge. I think the two vertical walls on either side terminate it well.

But on the front side, a flat strip does not seem to be enough. I think it has something to do with the returns.

The little bit of extra trim seems to make a better finishing statement here.

Tug, I like the solid mahogany trim you ripped and planed from a table top. Your base looks so clean and attractive.

[b.lindsey]

The finished crosshead looks great John. Still following along on your progress.

Bill

[J.L.]

Thanks Bill.

[J.L.]

The cast iron cover has the name of the engine nicely cast with raised lettering. I think it would be best to paint the cover surface 'as cast' to get the nice textures.

The oval/diamond gland projection has to be machined. I am going to try to use my new rotating vice to set the angles to cut the lower half and cut the roundness off the other half with parallel cuts.

I'm not good with a file, but the rounded ends may have to hand worked.

[Larry Sw]

You do very nice work John.  I am truly humbled.  :>)
If you want the Steam Chest cover background a little
smoother you can always dab some filler in there around
the No. 7.  A lot easier than trying to machine around the lettering.


Larry