Textile Mill Diorama

[J.L.]

With the helpful suggestions discussed above, here is the flange being modified. It fits snuggly into the expanded hoe in the machined face on the top of the cylinder.

The nice thing thing about the added spigot is that it does not compromise the ID of the flange hole. The exhaust pipe will thread itself down the tapered threads and come to rest short of the the end of the spigot.

[J.L.]

The void has been filled and machined.

The flange has its dummy studs ground flush.  A faux gasket has been attached.

The last photo shows the flange temporarily in place. It can not be pressed into place yet. Things look a little rough, but when everything is primed and painted, the brasss flange should stand out nicely against the top of the cylinder's side.

[b.lindsey]

A fitting solution John. In the end, no one will ever know the flange isn't screwed into the cylinder.

Bill

[J.L.]

Thanks Bill. I like that - "a fitting solution".  Very clever.

While the JBWeld was curing in the cylinder void, I had a go at the boiler room roof.

I went back to that store where I bought the mineral paint for the concrete floor and bought three colours to represent weathered slate or shakes. The owner gave me a quick lesson on dry brushing.

The roof is a formed plastic sheet. A cardboard template was made for the whole roof and transferred to the sheet. The plastic cut very nicely with a sharp knife.

The results...

[J.L.]

While I was in the boiler room, I installed an industrial 1/12 scale light fixture over the fire door arch.

It may be many months before this light operates, but if all goes well, I look forward to seeing its warm glow on the boiler face.

Now its off to bore thse steam passage holes. 

Hopefully, there will be no weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth coming from the shop today. It's a long way to New South Wales, Australia.

Of course, there is always JBWeld...

But let's not borrow trouble.

John

[J.L.]

Break through ... x 4!
 

[b.lindsey]

Very nice John, and the roof looks superb!!

Bill

[wagnmkr]

Knew you could do it! I agree ... the roof is wonderful.

Cheers

Tom

[J.L.]

Thanks guys.

Jason, the idea of creating a little  pocket at the edge of the cylinder bore worked like a charm. It let the drill/countersink centre drill come to bear on a surface that would not let the point skitter about.

The tip vice was set at 60 degrees. This allowed the 1/8" holes to open out nicely at the bottom of the steam ports.

Jason, I still want to look into those 0-rings you were mentioning that create less friction in the bore. Over here, there are not hobby specific shops for this kind of thing. You get what hydraulic/bearing shops stock. However, they may have a 3/16" silicone ring.

John

[J.L.]

I found some Padauk in the rack which reminded me of pen turning days. It is a bright red when freshly cut, and turns to a dark mahogany shade when exposed to air. When it is oiled, it goes very dark. I'm sure aged cladding on working engines turned almost black with all the oil and grease about.

I have tested with two strips here. I think they will work. If I were dealing with steam, there is enough space between the cylinder wall and the cladding for a nice cosy blanket of insulating material.

[Kim]

That's going to look beautiful, John.

Do be careful when working with the Padauk and take precautions.  I've heard that the dust from that can be pretty bad stuff.  But you probably already new that.
Kim

[J.L.]

Hi Kim,

You are absolutely right. I've turned a lot of exotic woods and I think the worst is Cocobolo. I am quite allergic to it.

As for the padauk, I have a dust collector hooked up to the table saw, and wear a mask when sanding the little pieces.

It's a small job and should take very little shaping to get the lengths to fit between the cylinder's flanges.

Thanks for the caution.

Appreciated.

John

[Ian S C]

It was toxic wood that got me into model engineering, or should I say out of wood turning. Even with a dust mask, the dust was getting me. Following along John, this is going well, hope you have a good area to display your dioramas.
Ian S C

[J.L.]

Hi Ian,

I am actually glad I went into card modelling and now model engineering to take my focus away from wood turning because most of my turnings featured the exotics.

You were wise. Thanks for sharing.

At the time, I started to use positive pressure headgear and not just a mask when at the lathe.

Here is a wood you will recognizre Ian - pau ferro. The knob on the litle box is ebony.

I'm taking the lagging one board at a time - cautiously.

Cheers...John

[J.L.]

I've got a feeling that when this crosshead was designed, it was thought best to make a shoe first that slid perfectly between the guide rails. Next, a steel block would be fashioned for the crank pin and the piston rod. Finally,  the shoe would  be screwed up under the block.

But here we are with a gunmetal casting all in one. If it works out, okay, but if not, it can be made (and perhaps more easily by fabricating it).