Author Topic: Textile Mill Diorama  (Read 112216 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #180 on: April 21, 2018, 09:41:47 PM »
Second what Larry said, the leading tips look pretty dull, they need a sharpening. Not uncommon for that style boring tools.

Offline crueby

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #181 on: April 21, 2018, 09:44:51 PM »
On second look, those bits are meant for a boring head in the mill, aren't they? They have a little flat in the shank?  Oh, and the thin necks are normal, gives the chips more clear path out. For lathe work a boring bar, with a replaceable index tip, is my favorite.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #182 on: April 21, 2018, 09:51:21 PM »
I will try your idea Larry with a test hole in a piece of scrap.

Of course a 5/8" drill with a 1/2" shank would a lot easier.

This hole is just a saddle hole for a bearing. It's there where drilling and reaming will be critical.
John

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #183 on: April 21, 2018, 10:41:37 PM »
No Chris, these boring bars are designed for the tool post on the cross slide.
You clamp down on the square collet to fasten them in place.
But they are useless I find, becasuse the half shaped metal upon which the carbide bit is brazed is larger than the hole the bit makes.
You'd have to grind off much of the metal below the bit to prevent fouling.

I guess I'm out of luck with this hole. Large diameter bits are very expensive for a one-time use.

Hmm....

Offline wagnmkr

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #184 on: April 21, 2018, 10:46:09 PM »
John, I have a lot of experience with those boring tools and I am happy to come over and help. I also have a 5/8 drill with a 1/2" shank.

Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #185 on: April 21, 2018, 10:48:29 PM »
I just used one of those (or similar) for boring my cylinders. My tool post holder was an AXA 250-102...designed to take a boring bar (or turning cutter).
It has a groove running lengthwise on the bottom that the cutter shaft sits in.
The cutters don't have a flat on the shaft.
My cylinders are about 1 1/8" long and I was just able to do it by drilling the bore with a 3/8 drill bit first.
Longer cutters would need a larger bore to get into.

As for springing...sneak up on it and take a finish path.

If your bore is too small, then yes, you may be out of luck. But can you drill it a bit larger before boring?
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline Larry Sw

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #186 on: April 21, 2018, 11:01:00 PM »
A 5/8" drill bit will drill a hole a bit larger than 5/8" but if you can make your bronze insert to fit it's OK.

Larry

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #187 on: April 21, 2018, 11:20:49 PM »
Larry, you are right. The whole idea of getting that hole in the pedistal blocks is so that the bearing inserts can be machined to fit exactly.

Thanks Tom, that's just what I need. I'll send you a PM.

John

Offline J.L.

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The Bedplate
« Reply #188 on: April 24, 2018, 01:19:12 PM »
The cast iron bed plate is fastened to its pedistal with eight #8-32 studs, washers and scale model nuts.

The colour of choice this time - dark green.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #189 on: April 24, 2018, 06:18:13 PM »
Very nice John. The sub-base, just below the pedestal look just like concrete which I am guessing is the look you are going for and definitely achieved!!  Jo will love the studs and nuts  :ROFL:

Bill

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #190 on: April 24, 2018, 08:11:49 PM »
Thanks Bill.

The little flats cast for the washers and nuts were small in diameter. A #8 washer looked a bit oversized so I went down to #6 washers and reamed them  so that they woud slip over the studs and not overlap the cast flats.

Tomorrow I go back to some metal, but today I worked up the window at the back of the mill. There are two different and distinctive style of windows in play here. Industrial windows are set into the wall with no casings. They are often set back in steel frames. This look is seen on the machine room side of the wall.

But on the other side of the back wall, there will be a single storied woodworking shop. A much warmer look is desirable here where the window treatment include stool, apron and casings. It's a woodworking shop!  ;D

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #191 on: April 24, 2018, 08:19:27 PM »
Thanks for the comment about the'concrete' look Bill.

However, I stil like that earlier, warmer brick facade that was used the century before.

John

Offline crueby

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #192 on: April 24, 2018, 09:02:07 PM »
Nice job on the windows - how do you make the grids? Did I miss that in an earlier post?

Offline J.L.

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Muntins and Mullions
« Reply #193 on: April 24, 2018, 09:50:55 PM »
Hi Chris,

Sorry, I did not detail the making of the muntins and mullions. Boy you should have seen the size of the putty knife I was using to glaze those thirty-five pieces of glass!  :Lol:

No, actually a sheet of plastic was scored to set up the gridwork. This time I went back to using wood that was ripped on my table saw from bass stripwood. On the beam and Benson dioramas, I used plastic strips.

The trick is to get the little pieces of wood in place without smearing glue all over the place. I used spray adhesive in a jig. The strip was placed in the jig and the adhesive sprayed on. Then the strip was lifted out and stuck onto the window over the pre-scored lines. The tacky glue in the photo did not work well at all. Nor did CA glue.

« Last Edit: April 24, 2018, 09:54:02 PM by J.L. »

Offline 90LX_Notch

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #194 on: April 25, 2018, 01:02:39 AM »
As far as your boring bar dilemma, there are multiple ways to "skin a cat".  Modify an existing bar, grind one from a hss blank, grind one from a broken endmill/drill, or make one from tool steel and harden it.  I've done all of the aforementioned methods to solve a machining problem.  You're limited only by your imagination and willingness to try.

-Bob
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