Author Topic: Textile Mill Diorama  (Read 112417 times)

Offline mklotz

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #150 on: April 08, 2018, 08:54:57 PM »
Worth remembering...

The OD of a numbered (N) screw thread can be found from the following equation...

OD(in) = 0.013 * N + 0.060

[Mass-produced, rolled on threads may measure slightly less than this value.]
Regards, Marv
Home Shop Freeware
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Offline J.L.

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To Date
« Reply #151 on: April 10, 2018, 08:34:57 PM »
Hi Marv,
Yes, worth writing down.  But when you've got a guy still working with fractions and using terms such as "a little bit more..." or "a little bit less..." the import of this knowledge is lost.  :)

I try.

Here is the project to date. The eight baseplate mounting holes are established meaning that the location of the pedistal can be finalized in the engine room.


Offline Mcgyver

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #152 on: April 10, 2018, 08:50:57 PM »
that looks great!  I really like the boiler

Offline J.L.

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Baseplate Mounting
« Reply #153 on: April 11, 2018, 07:39:29 PM »
Thanks!

Eight studs were made out of 3/16" round bar to pass through the baseplate, the pedestal, and the floor. Each end was reduced to 5/32" for #8-32 washers and nuts. The nuts are scale model nuts with lands.

A great casting.


Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #154 on: April 12, 2018, 12:30:34 AM »
Coming along well John. I guess it's on to some engine parts now  ^-^

Bill

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #155 on: April 12, 2018, 02:11:25 AM »
Thanks Bill.

Yes, the next two items will be the bearing blocks. I'll be interested to see if, when they are made, they will allow the flywheel to clear the floor. Until then, that back wall can not be permenately put in place. I may have to run a router around that floor space for a flywheel pit.

John


Online Kim

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #156 on: April 12, 2018, 05:33:52 AM »
Looks like your cement is dry now, so you can mount your engine :)

I'm following along and enjoying the show.  You do amazing work, John!
Kim

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #157 on: April 12, 2018, 05:08:08 PM »
Thanks fellows.

The diorama is becoming quite cumbersome and heavy to move so I have purchased a stainless steel table.

This diorama is meant to be viewed from both sides. If it were in the centre of a room, you could walk around it to view each side. But in a residential setting where space is at a premium, it probably would be pushed up against a wall.

Thus, I have added large 5" wheels to the tubluar legs. It can be spun around with ease.

The second shot is looking south at the engine room.

The third  photo is looking north into the single storied woodworking shop that is attached to the back of the mill.

Offline J.L.

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Main Bearings
« Reply #158 on: April 13, 2018, 12:07:52 PM »
Okay, here we go with my first attempt at split bearings.
I assume, I can hand sand the gunmetal bearing halves on a steel plate to make them nice and flat.
Then they are soldered together.

Quick question.

The halves are cleaned well and solder paste spead smoothly across their faces. Then they are fastened together (wire?)
If they fit tightly together, will capillary action draw enough solf solder in to fasten them securely?

There is a lot of metal with the two bearings joined together. Should they be cut and each on soldered separately?

Curious. Of course, if this fails, I guess I could get in the car and head to the bearing store and buy two 7/16" bearing sleeves.  ::)

John

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #159 on: April 13, 2018, 12:44:04 PM »
I may have answered one of my questions. The metal is soft and as you can see from these two photos, only a few strokes across a piece of sandpaper on a flat steel surface began to smooth out the castings.

So maybe not making the surfaces perfectly flat will give the solder some 'tooth' to grab and hold the halves together?


Online crueby

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #160 on: April 13, 2018, 01:57:09 PM »
In Kozo's books on builing the trains, he says you need some small gap for the silver solder to be drawn through the joint by capillary action, for wide joints he recommended making a couple small taps with a punch to make dimples to leave the gap.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #161 on: April 13, 2018, 02:14:17 PM »
Chris, it's a soft soldering job. I suppose you could even Loctite the parts together. Later in the process, you have to Loctite the bearings onto a mandrel for finish turning, so heating will be required anyway.

But I'd like to try the soldering first. The trick is, you dont really know how much bond you have accomplished. All we would need would be to have the halves fly apart in the lathe!  :-[

Also,there is a spigot on one end of the castings, so maybe the intent is to grab that spigot in a chuck and bore the 7/16" hole through both bearings at once. You could use the tailstock centre to orient the castings and wrap some wire around the halves for safety.

But boring all the way may be not so good. You could bore in the distance of one bearing and cut it off. Then continue into the second bearing. Might prevent wandering.

Thinking out loud here.  Sorry.

« Last Edit: April 13, 2018, 02:20:13 PM by J.L. »

Offline john mills

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #162 on: April 13, 2018, 02:36:21 PM »
the two faces should be faced late as these are the faces come together when the bearings are finished and the hole is the size to fit the shaft.  you can tin both faces then place them together wiping together only a minimum of solder is required you don't won't thickness as when they are melted apart the hole still needs to be round when the faces are cleaned again light rub on wet and dry . when seeing in four jaw chuck place so the jaws hold
the two halves together.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #163 on: April 13, 2018, 02:58:10 PM »
Thanks John,

So if I understand, I tin each surface and wipe with a rag when still hot. After they have cooled a bit, I wire them together so that they won't shift and apply heat. The tinning should melt and bond as the casting is heated.  Right?

You are right. The bearings are finished later after they are bonded onto a mandrel.

John

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Textile Mill Diorama
« Reply #164 on: April 13, 2018, 03:40:07 PM »
I usually machine the mating surfaces, then as John says you can either tin both and then sweat them together or if you have solder paste that can be applied to one surface then rub the other one onto it so the paste is evenly spread on both surfaces then heat them while held together.

Once soldered hold in the 4-jaw to turn the spigot true then you can use that to hold them by while the outside is trued up. I then like to hold by the outside while drilling and boring or reaming is done so you don't force them apart. Once you have the hole the outside and ends can be finished off with mandrel or collets.

 

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