Author Topic: Stirling engine  (Read 11567 times)

Offline Doc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 868
  • USA ND
Stirling engine
« on: February 24, 2018, 02:35:22 AM »
  I started modeling and putting together a Stirling engine design back a long time ago. I used it as training for learning CAD when I became a CAD tooling design engineer. I thought well maybe some day I would build it. Well today is the day I start. It has been a long time in the works. I put a few finishing touches on the model and will start it soon.

Offline Perry

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 194
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2018, 06:46:31 AM »
 :popcorn:

Offline Ian S C

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1080
  • Stirling Engine Maker Darfield Canterbury N Z
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2018, 11:31:11 AM »
Go for it Doc, I'll be watching.
Ian S C

Offline Doc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 868
  • USA ND
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2018, 02:32:53 PM »
Got a small start. Cut material and turned up a spud on each end these will be used for aligning the hot cap with it left them oversized until the inside dia is bored. I will locate on the inside bore to turn the fins and at that time I'll finish the end alignment spuds.

PS also the length was cut to finish.

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13860
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2018, 03:56:07 PM »
What diameter is it Doc? Looks large next to the little ones in the background. Happy you have decided to post another build.

Bill

Offline Perry

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 194
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2018, 08:04:43 PM »
Hi Doc, what configuration will it be? Do you plan to use some materials like graphite and Teflon?

Offline Brian Rupnow

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7573
  • Barrie, Ontario Canada
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2018, 01:04:40 AM »
Jeez Doc--That looks awfully familiar---

Offline Doc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 868
  • USA ND
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2018, 01:14:56 AM »
 Pretty much the same principle as the engine you just finished by the way good job Brian!
I had is one modeled up nearly complete for at least 20 years. And now finally going to build it.

Offline Doc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 868
  • USA ND
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2018, 01:19:25 AM »
Cooling fins done.


Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13860
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2018, 01:30:23 AM »
Cut and polished as well ....that looks great Doc!!

Bill

Offline Doc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 868
  • USA ND
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2018, 10:50:15 PM »
Well I have the hot cap rough drilled. I drilled to the depth with a .5 drill then stepped up to a 1.0 drill. Now I need t bore it the rest of the way up to size and flatten the bottom out. I'm making the hot cap from stainless steel.

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13860
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2018, 12:09:05 AM »
S.S. is the way to go I think Doc. Takes the heat, but won't corrode easily if at all.
Bill

Offline yogi

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 450
  • Duncannon, PA USA
    • Yogi's Workshop
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2018, 12:12:29 AM »
Interesting Doc!
I'm looking forward to see more...  :popcorn:

Offline Ian S C

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1080
  • Stirling Engine Maker Darfield Canterbury N Z
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #13 on: February 27, 2018, 01:02:04 AM »
Doc,I initially thought that having the hot cap thin all over in one carved out of a solid lump of 316 was the way to go, but since then I have decided thatalength of the hot cap about equal to the stroke at the hot end should be left at a little thicker, so .030", the rest about half that to ward the cool end to act as a heat dam, thinner the metal, slower the conduction of heat.  If you make it too thin, the heat tends to cause the hot cap to droop, and wrinkle, mind you thats after years of use at maximum temperature.
Ian S C

Offline Doc

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 868
  • USA ND
Re: Stirling engine
« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2018, 01:26:30 AM »
Well I finished up the hot cap unless I decide to add to the end of it. I finished with a wall thickness of .047 and an end thickness of .08




 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal