Coventry by Roy Ozouf

[crueby]

Not sure what that engine will take - if you have too much flywheel weight it will have a hard time ramping up the speed, but it will definitely carry it around well!

[Jasonb]

Diameter of the large one looks about right to me, you could reduce the width of the rim by at least 50% on that and it would not look wrong but would take some weight out of it. I've done that a couple of times.

Generally with our model steam engines that will just get used for display there is no need to worry about how quick the throttle response will be so the weight does not matter, better to keep the mass so you can get a nice slow tickover as the increased mass will help carry the engine over top and bottom dead ctr.

On the pully, keep all the width but bring the dia down as much as practical to leave a thing rim as pulleys look right that way, about 1/8" would do

[Admiral_dk]

The big one look about right in size to me as a flywheel and the small one might be right for a belt, though a smaller here might be right too - depending on gearing of the load.

You're still moving along and it can't be long before it runs at the current building speed 

[kvom]

I agree with Jason that the large flywheel diameter is good but the width is off.  On mine I have a 5.25" wheel that when scaled 1.5 would be 7.9".  Personally I like to run it as slow as possible, and a larger flywheel helps with that.

[flopearedmule]

Well, when I ordered the flywheel, I went with the heavy knowing I would shave off much of it.  The part I don't like is the diameter of the spokes.  It would probably look fine, I'm just being picky.  The spokes on the 8" regular were half the size (diameter),  but I thought the width was smaller than I wanted. 
thanks for the response tho.   The Ultimate goal is wanting it to look good.

I have slowed down with building parts a little.  The pictures won't come as fast now.
Indoor Archery season has come, and slowed me down on my shop time.

[flopearedmule]

Where do I buy the little grease/oil cups that you guys are putting on the crosshead and main bearings. 
I have seen them on other engines.  you can give them a turn and add some grease or oil??

[fumopuc]

If I see it right, you are based in the US, so may be this could be a source.
https://www.pmmodelengines.com/product-category/steam/lubrication/

[kvom]

I bought mine from PMR at a show. but for the Benson build I made them.  Really depends on how fancy you want to be.

[flopearedmule]

I had some time after work today.  got the crankshaft cut.
and linkage is coming together

[flopearedmule]

I think I'm going to put a slot in the link and put a bolt to squeeze instead of a set screw to mar up the shaft.

 

[flopearedmule]

put the slot in, and it clamps down really good.
it's getting pretty exciting now, I have the slide valve, and rod left to do.
Flywheel might take a little longer. I'll be doing that last.

[Admiral_dk]

You are really tearing through this build very quickly.

I like the smoothness of the linkage motion 

[flopearedmule]

You are really tearing through this build very quickly.

I like the smoothness of the linkage motion 

Thanks. Its been a fun couple of months.  I got to work in the shop for a few hours today.
Got all the linkage done.  I was having a hard time single pointing the 5-40 threads on the .125 shaft, so I put them on 80% and ordered a die to complete them. 
I have the piston, steam chest cover, and flywheel left then I can put some air to it.

[flopearedmule]

I need some advise.  I know how the slide valve works, but does the pressure in the steam chest keep the valve seated tight?  if so, then the valve nut would have to be a slip fit right?  Also, in the print it shows the slot 3/32"  The valve rod was supposed to be 3/32 diameter.  I scaled this engine up 50%, which would give me a valve rod of .140"
I chose to make the valve rod .125" but I still made the slot in the valve .140" (I wasn't thinking when I machined it )
So the valve would be able to float back and forth about .0075" per side (.015" total)
Should I fix that, or can I widen the valve .0075" on each side ??


Another thing, My pictures are always posting 90degrees, I tried to turn them 90 and resave them, but they still post 90 degrees.  is there a simple way to fix that?

[crueby]

The nut in the top of the valve slider should be a slip fit, so that the slider can go up/down on the nut to keep itself pressed to the valve face by the steam pressure - you are correct there. You want the fit to be snug enough so there is as little slop as possible in the forward/back movement, but loose enough not to bind when pressing towards the face.

For the pictures, I had same issue, found a setting in the photo editor I was using (Paint Shop Pro), for jpeg to not save the extra metadata, which includes the orientation of the camera. See if there is another options menu in the save screen, all depends what editor you have.