Author Topic: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel  (Read 217691 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #600 on: January 29, 2018, 03:17:28 PM »
This morning I've started drilling the rails for the top/bottom panels on the dipper boom. First clamped the rails onto the boom, and lined up the holes in the end fitting, used it as a drill guide for the first four holes.

With the end fitting bolted on to keep the rails in position, and some more clamps down the length, began drilling the rivet holes.

These holes are taking longer to drill than the horizontal ones since the oak doesn't clear chips well on narrow deep holes, so some pecking is needed to clear the flutes. The holes are spaced to go between the horizontal rivets. They will be countersunk the same way the horizontal ones to make the rivet heads go flush. Some of the ones over the gear rack will be countersunk deeper, so I can bolt the rails through and grind off the bolt heads. I still need to work out the holder for the gear cutter to make the racks, the one I've been using won't have enough reach for the length of the racks.
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 08:54:35 PM by crueby »

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #601 on: January 29, 2018, 09:28:07 PM »
Continuing on with the dipper booms, got the holes drilledin the first boom for the vertical rivets, and then counterdrilled part way through the thicker top plate in several places for the bolts to hold the gear rack in place on the bottom edge.

Then cut and installed the rivets in that boom:

Now need to repeat the vertical holes/rivets for the second boom...
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 08:54:43 PM by crueby »

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #602 on: January 30, 2018, 10:31:35 PM »
Well, a whole bunch of rivets later, and the dipper boom parts are test assembled:

The assembly is held together by a set of horizontal and vertical bolts at the bucket end, and is attached to the bucket with a pivot pin at the lower front corner.

Still to do on the booms:
- make up a batch of scale size 5-40 nuts for the bolts, the ones on there now are standard size, way out of scale proportions
- bolt on the fittings at the top and make the straps that go to the top/back corners of the bucket
- make and attach the plugs at the back end of the booms
- make and attach the gear racks on the lower back sides of the booms
- strip the bucket, paint the bucket and booms with the bake on paint like I did for the bucket door. I'll use the longer time/lower temperature option on the paint due to the oak spacers on the booms.

I've been looking ahead at the gear racks, due to their length, I dont think it is practical to cut them with the normal round gear cutters, since they are a smaller diameter than the headstock, so the stock can't go past the headstock during cutting. So, I think I'll make up a single point cutter to be held in the fly-cutter holder and cut the racks that way. I used that sort of single point cutter on the first clock I made, so its a known procedure. I can turn the headstock of the mill 90 degrees, use the z-axis for adjusting depth of cut and the x axis to advance to the next tooth, y axis to make the cut for each tooth. Going to make the small pinion gear first, use that to test the rack tooth spacing on some scrap first.

Once all that is done, only a few thousand more parts to go on the model!   :paranoia:
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 08:54:49 PM by crueby »

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #603 on: January 30, 2018, 11:52:20 PM »
The detail is excellent.

And tell us the story on that anvil.  ;D
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
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Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #604 on: January 31, 2018, 02:06:17 AM »
The detail is excellent.

And tell us the story on that anvil.  ;D
Um, its about 3 or 4 pounds, bought it years ago, not sure where, probably from Rio Grande jewelry tools. Very handy, heavy enough to rivet heavy steel rivets without bouncing but small enough to fit in a drawer. I was using an offcut of iron bar the other day, remembered I had the anvil, finally found it in a big old tool chest in the wood shop.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #605 on: January 31, 2018, 05:48:39 PM »
This morning I started making up a batch of scale nuts for the bolts on the dipper boom. I have a couple boxes of 'small pattern' 5-40 nuts, but they are still a bit out of scale. Rather than make them from scratch from hex or round bar, thought I'd try a shortcut and mill down the ones I have. I drilled/tapped a hole in the end of a bar, ran some of the nuts onto a socket head bolt, jammed them down tight, and ran that tight into the bar held in the hex collet holder on the mill. A few passes later, and some smaller-than-small-patter nuts...

Here are the milled down nuts, center, with the original on the left. On the right is a real one found smushed into the gravel under the steam shovel, still has the tar and grime on it from the machine. I used that to scale the proportions down to the model nuts. Could be a few thou thicker, but its pretty darn close.

Just need to make up a few more sets, and I can assemble them on the booms.
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 08:55:00 PM by crueby »

Offline tvoght

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #606 on: January 31, 2018, 06:00:22 PM »
Nice trick with the nuts Chris. I just had one of those "now why didn't I think of that?" moments. I so often do, when following your builds.


--Tim

Offline RonGinger

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #607 on: January 31, 2018, 06:43:03 PM »
I use standard, but smaller nut and re-drill and tap them. A standard 2-56can be drilled out to 4-40, a 4-40 and be drilled for 5-40, etc

Its pretty easy to clamp one in a vise and drill and tap. Wonder of those combination drill-tap devices would work? i will have to try that.

My current project, the Cornwall Forge engine wants square nuts. I have not found a good way to do that yet.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #608 on: January 31, 2018, 06:43:40 PM »
Nice trick with the nuts Chris. I just had one of those "now why didn't I think of that?" moments. I so often do, when following your builds.


--Tim

I tried making more at once than just the 4, but the flex of the bolt when longer made it iffy at best. Also tried it with the bolt held in the collet directly, but being able to tighten it down against the end of the rod worked much better. Only takes about a minute per batch, mainly to load up/remove/repeat the nuts. Also am making two passes down to the finished dimensions to reduce the depth of cut and the forces. Still, its a lot faster than drilling, parting, tapping, filing it all from scratch.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #609 on: January 31, 2018, 06:45:37 PM »
I use standard, but smaller nut and re-drill and tap them. A standard 2-56can be drilled out to 4-40, a 4-40 and be drilled for 5-40, etc

Its pretty easy to clamp one in a vise and drill and tap. Wonder of those combination drill-tap devices would work? i will have to try that.

My current project, the Cornwall Forge engine wants square nuts. I have not found a good way to do that yet.
Ah, thats sneaky! I like it.

For square nuts, you could try the way I am making them but with the square collet holder, take a standard width one square, should be enough material if you start with the big hardware store ones.

Oh, and we want a build thread on the Cornwall Forge engine!

Offline steam guy willy

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #610 on: February 01, 2018, 12:00:00 AM »
lots more work done there ,I wish i could do more as everything i do seems to take forever !!  Also will you be putting spots of weld on the tines as they used to do to build them up after constant use ?  Just a thought !! :-\ :: :mischief:

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #611 on: February 01, 2018, 02:22:54 AM »
lots more work done there ,I wish i could do more as everything i do seems to take forever !!  Also will you be putting spots of weld on the tines as they used to do to build them up after constant use ?  Just a thought !! :-\ :: :mischief:
So I can call any dings in the teeth 'damage from that big rock'?!

One thing I need to do when the weather warms up (a long list) is get over there and take tracings of the teeth and of the 'root' of the one missing one, to make up a pattern for a replacement. Not sure if I'll carve out a big chunk or make a wood pattern and get it cast somewhere. The base of the missing one is complete, just the replaceable tooth tip  that is missing.

Offline bouch

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #612 on: February 01, 2018, 02:51:35 PM »
My current project, the Cornwall Forge engine wants square nuts. I have not found a good way to do that yet.

I made about 75 square nuts, threaded 2-56, for my wooden beam engine.  If you find a good way to make them, let me know, as making those square nuts was a royal PITA.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #613 on: February 01, 2018, 06:16:57 PM »
My current project, the Cornwall Forge engine wants square nuts. I have not found a good way to do that yet.

I made about 75 square nuts, threaded 2-56, for my wooden beam engine.  If you find a good way to make them, let me know, as making those square nuts was a royal PITA.
Would milling down the standard 2-56 hardware store ones like I did, but to square using a square collet holder, work for them? Or do they need to be even larger across the flats? This method worked nicely for these hex nuts.

Online Dan Rowe

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Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Reply #614 on: February 01, 2018, 07:19:08 PM »
My plan to make square nuts is to use a square collet or my new 4 jaw scroll chuck from Sherline and drill, chamfer and cut off with the lathe. Then use a fixture in the vise with a slot the width of the nuts and a clearance hole for the tap. This method of tapping nuts was shown by Ramon in recent tapping thread.
Dan
ShaylocoDan