Vulcan Beam Engine - AJ Reeves Castings

[Emelbe]

Hi All

After around 16 months lurking in the shadows I have finally decided to step out of the shadows and attempt my first build log.  Firstly let me introduce myself, my name is Martin, I am happily retired and I live in Jersey, Channel Islands.  Although this is my first build log it isn't my first engine, I have completed the Cotswold Heritage Stothert and Pitt Beam Engine, the Stuart 10V, and the Stuart James Coombes Table Engine.

I was attracted to the Vulcan because I think it is a 'pretty' little engine, and I also wanted to build another Beam Engine now I understand a little bit more about them. I have already done quite a bit of work on this kit and unfortunately don't have that many images of the earlier stages, so the first part of this log will have to be a bit of a catch up.
 
Hopefully I have attached an image of where I'm at now, so I'll post this and see the result before I start.

[crueby]

picture came through fine - nice looking start on the engine!

[Emelbe]

Hi All

Back again, you'll have to bear with me until I get the hang of this, Just going to make another post to see what happens, then we should be able to make a start!

[b.lindsey]

Hi and welcome Martin, even though you have been here a while. Looking forward to following along on your latest project.

Bill

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Welcome Martin and will be following along on your build.

Thomas

[Jo]

Looks like you are doing well on your beam engine Martin 

Jo

[Emelbe]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies already.

Let us begin!!!  Firstly I have to say AJ Reeves are a pleasure to deal with.  I ordered the kit by phone and it was with me within three days, Jersey is a bit like the back of beyond when it comes to getting things! There were three castings missing but this was duly noted on the invoice with to follow FOC.  I wondered how many companies would have waited until they had the castings before they sent everything to save the extra postage?  There were a couple of problems with two of the castings, the beam and one of the standards, and also they charged me VAT (Value Added Tax) which we don't pay here.  A quick phone call and this was refunded and they said to return the casings and they would be replaced. Within the week they had arrived and a day or so after the missing castings arrived.

The castings are Gunmetal which was a welcome change from the Stuart Cast Iron (no black dust everywhere). The quality of the castings aren't the best, they are quite rough and the guy who fettles them at the foundry makes the Texas Chainsaw Massacre look like a brain surgeon!! Also some of the castings are fairly close to the bone dimension wise and don't leave a lot to play with.

Ah well, if it were easy anyone could do it, time to settle down with the Dremel and lets get them fettled and primed before I start some machining.  After a week or so and all of Season 3 of Narcos on Netflix I was about ready to make a start on machining the castings and I can start posting some pictures of the results.

[Emelbe]

Hi

Back again with a couple more images of work in progress.  The general idea was to get the main castings set up and aligned, the theory being if I get this right I shouldn't have too many problems later (tempting fate).  For the base I decided to use Aluminium Plate rather than the casting AJ Reeves offer as an add on, quite frankly I couldn't justify the £70 price tag.  Most of the work on the castings was done with a Dremel, Disc Sander, files and wet and dry.  The entablature frames, side stays and vertical stay were quite tricky to align properly, plenty of test fitting before drilling in position.  I'll talk about the flywheel and beam in a later post therein lies a tale!

cheers for now

[Emelbe]

As much as I would like to describe the best way to machine the flywheel, I can't.  It was a case of more good luck than good management.  I tried setting the wheel up on the lathe by gripping on the central boss but it was nowhere near true.  It was getting to the last resort stage where I would have to give in to the faceplate (I once had a nasty experience with one) when I realised the wheel was warped.  I set it up again and marked where it was running out with a marker pen and gave it a little 'gentle persuasion' with a soft hammer.  It was like a miracle had occurred, it was running true.  I didn't waste any time facing and drilling the wheel so I could set it up on a mandrel, in fact I machined both hubs with no problems. The next issue was machining the circumference without any chatter.
There is quite a bit of material to come off to get rid of any casting imperfections, but to be honest it wasn't as difficult as I thought. The bit of chatter I encountered was easily dealt with with some wet and dry.

The next issue was the keyway, make one or take the easy option of a grub-screw. I think the euphoria drove me to make the decision of broaching the keyway.  I have done this before and knew what to expect, it's not a two minute job on the lathe.  It's just a matter of grinding a suitable tool which is then pushed through the workpiece with the lathe saddle in small depth increments.  The boss is quite long and I expected the tool would deflect a little, which it did, so it was a case of finishing off with a needle file.

The key itself was a cut and file job from 3mm mild steel.  So is was it worth the effort?  I think so. 

[b.lindsey]

Martin, those minimal profile flywheels look great, especially on a beam engine, but because there isn't much material there they really are prone to chattering especially on the rim. Sure looks like you overcame the obstacles though, very nice result.

Bill

[Emelbe]

Hi All

Thanks Bill for your post, as I said it was more by luck, but at least the end result was OK, should look nice when painted as polished.

Moving on I should say a few words about the Beam, and that should bring me up to date with where I'm at now.  As with all the castings, getting the Beam looking reasonable is quite labour intensive, a belt sander or disc sander is a great help.  The main issue is when you come to drilling the holes.  The position of the centre hole for the trunnion is obviously straightforward, you drill it in the centre.  It's when you come to set out the location for the two end holes theres a discrepancy from the drawings, if you measure to the drawing dimensions the holes come nowhere near the centre of the cast bosses, in fact they are only a couple of millimetres from the ends.  I don't think the distance is too critical so it's a matter of messing around with the dividers to find a compromise where the holes are located in the centre of their bosses and equidistant from the centre.  Thankfully the hole for the inner Suspension Link works out OK to the dimensions given (I say thankfully because they need to be the same measurement as the bridle linkages and I had already made them!).

The other issue was the Trunnion, I didn't particularly like the drawing design because there's a chance that the beam would pivot on its centre hole rather than the assembly pivoting in the bearings.  A quick session in AutoCad and I came up with a two part design as shown in the attached image.  All the shoulder distances were taken from the model itself to minimise float etc.

Turning the Trunnions is reasonably straightforward, all I can say is thank goodness I recently invested in a quick change tool-post. how ever did I manage without one before?

[steam guy willy]

Hi, Nice looking to start to this engine,  Re the broaching....you were worried about it being a little bit tapered due to the tool deflexion ? however this would be ok as you could make a slightly tapered key to make the flywheel sit really firmly in place ?

[Emelbe]

Hi,

With regard to being tapered, it probably is!!!!!!

[steam guy willy]

So that is cool then ,just make sure you get the flywheel the correct way round when you insert the tapered key !!    Your comment about the 4 way tool post......You actually used your own skill !!!  Good to see the progress with this ..........Beamengines'R'us.........

[Emelbe]

I think I've just about caught up with the build, so I'm more or less adding posts in 'real time' now.  So, on to the Connecting Rod.  The main problem with the Connecting Rod is 'how do you hold it for machining?'  Having scratched my head over this for a couple of days I finally came to the conclusion I was trying to 'over engineer' the problem.  Back to basics, do it by hand.  To he honest it wasn't a problem, with the aid of my trusty Dremel for the top end, and my Disc Sander for the bottom it was soon ready to be finished off with files.  The only 'hairy' part was when it came to drilling for the top pivot hole, danger of the drill wandering taking the hole off centre, and the chances that the drill can grab without warning on Gunmetal, and yes I did put a small flat on the cutting edges of the drill bit to try to prevent this.  I drilled a pilot hole on either side of the 'fork' before drilling to the finished size of 6mm, which worked OK.

Next job was to machine the strap for the split bush.  I didn't have any bar stock of suitable size so I ended up Milling it from some 16mm square, which as it happens made it easier to get the 11 mm slot centralised.  The radius on the end I did by hand using my Bench Disc Sander.  For the Split Bush I made two bushes and milled half off each.

The Taper Pin and the thing it sits on at the bottom - (I know theres a name for it but can't remember for the life of me) were let in the slot I had drilled in the Strap first, and then I cut the slot in the Connecting Rod to suit.  So there we are for this bit, not sure which part to tackle next possibly be the Suspension Links.

[Zephyrin]

Great thread with the built of your "Vulcan", a beautiful engine.
one of my first built, from the Reeves castings too. I missed the flywheel, (wobbling !) too large for my lathe in those days !
I steamed it, and was very happy with the result, a elegant runner !

[Emelbe]

Hi Zephyrin

Thanks for your comments.  Just had a look at your videos on google, you do realise you might have got yourself a 'new' best friend looking at your effort with the Vulcan!!!

Cheers

Martin

[Chipswitheverything]

Hi Martin, interested in your build of this engine, and appreciate the detailed write up with your experiences of the various difficulties and pleasures of the work.  Have seen a few Vulcan engines at shows over the years, but they remain one of the more unusual designs for the model engineer.  Nice work on the fettling and improvement of the castings, I know how much time goes into that sort of "hidden" side of the work, but it makes all the difference!    Dave

[Emelbe]

Hi Dave

Thanks for your comments.  I agree with what you say that people don't appreciate the time involved in the fettling etc. I know I didn't at first.  It's definitely well worth the effort.  All I do now is put Netflix on the computer and binge watch while I 'fettle away'.  I've added an image of my last effort, the James Coombes Table Engine, (I think that was most of Season 3 of Breaking Bad!!!)

Cheers

Martin

[Emelbe]

Hi,

The next job to tackle is the Suspension Links for the parallel motion.  At first glance they looked quite daunting, and I spent some time agonising over the best way to make them.  I finally came up with a cunning plan which so far seems to work out OK.  I think it's one of those jobs you definitely need to be in the right frame of mind before you start.

I decided that if I made them from square section it would help with work holding and keeping things square when it came to milling. Turning the blanks is easy if you have a self centring 4 jaw chuck, one of the best investments I have made.  First job was to make a form tool for the 'fancy' bit in the middle out of tool steel using the Dremel to grind the required shape. I did quite a few trial runs on some scrap bar until I got the set up right and the tool cutting properly.  The general idea was to 'extend' the lower part of the link so the two parts of the lower bracket could be made from the same piece. You'll probably get the idea if you look at the images.

Turning the blanks is straightforward although forming the central post is a little nerve racking as there's not a lot of metal left once the shape has been formed (I left that until the last operation to be on the safe side).  On to the milling machine and the first job was to drill the holes, I did this first so I had a good face to measure from.  Next step was bringing the thickness down to size and then the width of the upper part to the correct dimension.  I'll leave it there for now, I've hopefully posted the images in the right chronological sequence if anyone is interested.  The next job will be milling the grooves in the upper half, then drilling the holes in the lower part for the strap.

[Chipswitheverything]

As you say, Martin, these links are not the easiest of bits! Brasses and twiddly bits looking good, your form tool has worked nicely. 
 Just looking at the drawing and your milled out steel bar at the top of the second photo, am I right that the "U" strap component has to be turned and threaded on the lower elements of the "U"? Interested in what your plan will be for that part of the procedure...  Dave

[Emelbe]

Hi Dave

Hmmm,  I did contemplate making the straps in one piece, but the problem being how would I get a die on the threaded bit unless I made it flat and bent it afterwards?  Think I'm going to take the cowards way out and drill the ends of the strap for threaded rod (10BA), I doubt I can tap it because the thickness is 1.5mm where 10BA is 1.8mm o/d.  so I anticipate reducing diameter of the threaded rod at one end and use Loctite to secure it, or alternatively make 'legs' of the strap thicker.  Think the first option is favourite as there shouldn't be too much strain on the joint once the links are assembled (famous last words!!), the second option, I think, will make the assembly look a little bulky.  Really a case of 'suck it and see' at the moment

Cheers

Martin

[Zephyrin]

I'm remembering of a flaw in the design during the installation of the cylinder, and unfolding the blue prints after many years, I saw my notes on the drawing: 
The top opening of the cylinder pedestal is 1 3/8", whereas the fixing bolts of the bottom cylinder cover lay on a 1 1/16 PCD, which is very close and leaves little room for the fixing bolt heads !
As a have seen that these parts are already done, I wonder how did you proceed ?

[Emelbe]

Hi Zephyrin,

Looking at the drawings the PCD is 1 3/16" which is OK, possibly a later amendment.  For my last couple of engines I have completely re-drawn the plans in AutoCad, I find it helps me understand the engine and also I can make any design/dimension changes as necessary.  Once all the components are drawn I pre-build the engine on paper first.  I have found that I can then copy the drawings  and take off constructional dimensions to work with. I've added an image to show you what I mean.

cheers

Martin

[Chipswitheverything]

Hi Martin, like the CAD G.A, no doubt a big help in sorting out snags. 
 These straps are even smaller in section than I had supposed, and I dare say the Loctite solution will get by.  Just wondered about slitting the lower ends of the flat part of the "U" strap, say 6 or 8 mm deep, and making up the turned and threaded sections in the lathe from small section flat bar, silver soldering them into the slots in the straps and cleaning up?  Not saying that I greatly fancy doing it, but it would be strong....!
Dave

[Emelbe]

Hi Dave

I did think of going down the soldering route, but to be honest my soldering's not the best in the world, I'd probably spend as much time cleaning it up as I would have making it!!!  I've had some decent results with both Loctite and also Epoxy in the past, so if I make the rod a decent fit into the drilled hole I'm thinking it should do the trick.  Looking at the mechanics of it, the Piston and the inertia of the flywheel are doing all the real work so the stress should be minimal.

Cheers

Martin

[Chipswitheverything]

Just looking back to your opening comment on this log, Martin, I wonder if , when you are taking some photos, you might include a snap or two of your Stuart 10V ?  I'm mucking about with two examples of that little engine right now, finishing off ( maybe! ) some long neglected previous work, I'd be pleased to get a bit of inspiration from your engine...    Dave

[Emelbe]

Hi Dave

I've attached an image of my 10V.  I've actually got some video of it running and my James Coombes as well but I can't figure out how to get the size down so it will upload.  If you want to see the videos I'm actually in the process of making a blog where I've posted them, you can find it at:

modelengineer.blog

Don't know how to set it up as a link either!!!

Cheers

Martin

[Chipswitheverything]

Hi Martin, Thanks for the 10 photo, that looks very neat, I like the blue paintwork!  Finished nicely like that, they do look like a proper little steam engine.  Dave

[Emelbe]

At last the suspension links are finished! On my last post I think I was at the stage where I had turned the blanks and were ready for drilling. The holes need to be pretty accurate but with a bit of care it's not too difficult, to make sure they were vertical I left the opposite faced end of the blank on as a stand, and for the hole positioning I set everything up with the edge finder on the milling machine.  Once drilled it was a case of chopping the other end of the original square section off and square up the end to half diameter of the drilled hole. 

I had already milled the slot for the straps, and once let on the link centre and cut to the correct length it was decision time on how to fit the threaded rod.  If you have read the conversations I have had with Dave (Chipswitheverything), I was more or less settled on drilling a hole in the end of the strap and loctiting the rod in. Theres a saying about 'best laid plans of mice and men' or something like that, but after the drill wandered and broke through the edge of the strap it was obvious that my idea wasn't going to work!  Dave suggested cutting a slot and soldering the threaded rod in position and, seeing that the strap I had attempted to drill was either scrap, or could maybe be salvaged by going down the soldering route I thought I'd give it a go.  If theres a good reason to join a forum this one of them, in truth soldering had never occurred to me but as it happens it was definitely the best way to go.  The slots were formed using my Dremel with a thin cutting disc, the threaded rod was pressed into the gap with pliers, and then it was just a matter of heating it up and running the solder - 'easy- peasy'.  So thank you Dave, I owe you one!

To finish off I cut out the lump between the lower holes and squared the ends off at half hole.  At the end of the day it was a fiddly job, but I'm quite happy with the end result.  Next job the cross shafts.

[Zephyrin]

great looking these suspension links congratulation!  a difficult part


The strap can be made as in the ETW plan, in one piece of 1.6 or 1.5 mm soft steel turning first the treaded part. You need a small (but strong !) bending device with a roller, bending without it would lead to twisted edges upward, awful, and requiring lot of filling or hammering. the correct length of the strap in adjusted with a jeweller file at the end.

I modified the valve too, as ETW had not given lap on admission, but clearance on exhaust.

[Emelbe]

Hi Zephyrin

Thanks for your kind words.  I did briefly (very briefly) think about making the straps from flat, but I went for a cold shower and completely dismissed the idea!!!!  To get the correct length I made the upper bush and very gradually adjusted the length of the strap on my disc sander until it mated with the lower part of the hole.  It was a fiddly job but very satisfying when completed.

Cheers

Martin

[Emelbe]

A quick update as to progress.  After turning the cross-shafts I fitted the suspension links to the beam and spent an hour or so adjusting the fit to get rid of any slop.  Next up was the two big questions, how do they line up, and when do I drill the holes in the entablature for the outside bridle links?  So back to the lathe to make the main crosshead and drill the upper cylinder cover.  The piston was rod fitted and the rough initial check on alignment wasn't too bad but not quite right, it looks like I will have to adjust the position of the main castings to get the suspension links to hang vertically with the cylinder bore.  I think the minor discrepancy will be due to the measurement problem when drilling the beam, it's not much but enough to spoil the finished model.

I don't think it would be a good idea to drill anything until I've made the piston and piston gland and tested for alignment properly, so its time to get to work on the cylinder. 

[Chipswitheverything]

Hi Martin, the Vulcan is really coming on now, giving a good idea of how the engine will eventually look.    Very pleased that the soldering idea proved handy to you.
  Re. alignment and getting that side of the build satisfactory, I must admit that my Stuart Major beam took a lot of small fiddling adjustment to achieve smooth motion, although I had endeavoured to be accurate in dimensions and squareness, etc.  The height and separation of the many moving elements in a beam engine does cause its share of problems with extrapolation of small discrepancies.  Dave

[Emelbe]

Hi Dave

Think it's going to be a case of pinching a bit here and there, it's not a lot, probably be about 2mm max, which is what I had to adjust the holes in the beam to centralise them in the bosses.  Trouble is with me, I don't know whether it's a blessing or a curse, I really notice these things (my excuse for not decorating etc.).  Have made the piston so I can see exactly what I am dealing with now, so will sort it tomorrow, hoping it's just a matter of elongating a couple of holes in the stays and the cylinder pedestal.  As I said earlier, cheers for the tip about soldering.

Martin

[Emelbe]

Good news and bad!  I've resolved the problem of the suspension links not hanging vertically, that was straightforward, move the cylinder assembly until they did.  As I thought it wasn't much, around 1.5mm away from the beam pivot, and re-drill the pedestal.  Now the bad news, the Entablature Frames and Side Stays are out, I guessed they would be, but was hoping to maybe salvage them. I probably could by packing them out, but I think they would look terrible.  Ah well, these things are sent to try us, I've decided to order new castings and re-do them completely.  As it happens I'm delighted with the result, the beam falls nicely under its own weight which can't be all bad.

Now the confusing bit, to get the holes in the beam to line up with the cast bosses I had to reduce the distance to the pivot, so one would think the cylinder would have to be moved closer to the pivot as well, but in my case it had to be moved away, if anyone has any ideas please let me know. 

[Jasonb]

The links on some engines are not vertical, some more so than others, also the cylinder will only be under the end of the beam at one point in it's rotation even on an engine with vertical links.

I think there was a thread on here where we talked about the differences on various models and full size.

Where are the frames out? can the top be skimmed while they are mounted on the base if they are not equal

[Emelbe]

Hi

Not sure what's happened, checked and double checked the original measurements, that's why I was confident in fitting the stays and entablature in the first place.  The reason I want the links to be vertical is, to me, they don't look right if they're not.  Suppose it's all hypothetical now as I'm happy with them now, it really would have bugged me if I hadn't have fixed the problem.  Every model is a learning curve!

Cheers

Martin