Author Topic: Help with fittings on a Boiler  (Read 13292 times)

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #30 on: September 14, 2017, 04:48:45 PM »

Here is a revised drawing showing the changes that I will be making for the location of some of the half-couplings.

Thomas

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2017, 09:09:48 PM »
Hey everybody,

I have added all of the half-couplings to the tank now but made one mistake. I made several changes to the original design and then changed some of those changes....confusing. Moved the Drain coupling from the bottom to the back end, OK. Moved both of the Stack couplings to just one side of the Stack, OK. Welded the one-inch coupling to the top of the tank rather than on the top of the Stack, not good. Decided to go back to the original location for the Stack, so had to weld it on top of the one-inch coupling, much better.

Thomas
« Last Edit: October 25, 2017, 12:31:01 PM by Ye-Ole Steam Dude »

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #32 on: September 19, 2017, 08:29:36 PM »
Hi to everyone,

Cannot believe it has taken me a day and a half to partially build the PCU enclosure to this stage, still have some milling work to do on the back panel and all of the wiring. I am waiting on two 120Vac sockets before I can install the Terminal Block and the 15-amp Circuit Breaker. I will mill out the rectangle holes for the sockets when they arrive. I left the open space on the right side of the front panel to maybe add a Volt / Amp meter if I feel it is necessary. Thinking with the computer controlled Power Regulator that there will not be a need for the additional meter.

Later,
Thomas
« Last Edit: September 24, 2017, 09:02:40 AM by Ye-Ole Steam Dude »

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #33 on: September 20, 2017, 09:07:00 PM »
All of the interior wiring is completed. As soon as I receive the two power plugs to mount on the back panel, I can take their dimensions and then mill out the slots. I already have the wires in place to connect to the plugs and it will be ready for a test and if all goes well it will be ready to install into the boiler.

Thomas


Offline bent

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #34 on: September 24, 2017, 06:00:52 AM »
Looking forward to seeing your engines turning on live steam, Thomas!

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #35 on: September 24, 2017, 09:01:14 AM »
Looking forward to seeing your engines turning on live steam, Thomas!

Hello Bent,

Yes I am getting a bit anxious to complete the boiler and run some of my engines on steam. I am still waiting on several parts that I have on order to be able to work on the boiler and the PCU. I should be able to complete and test run the PCU this coming week. The company that is supposed to be doing the plasma cutting for the end plates and baffle had a problem with their table, so not sure when my parts will be ready.

Thomas

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #36 on: October 06, 2017, 04:32:49 PM »
Hello all,

Well I got a little bit of work done on the Boiler this morning. I cut and bent to shape the Baffle and then welded it inside the tank. I placed an order with a company over a month ago to plasma cut both ends and still have not received them. It is time to give the order to another company.

Have a great day,
Thomas

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #37 on: October 13, 2017, 04:21:29 PM »
Good morning everyone,

Now that all the work is completed on Steam Engine No.5, I now have time to work on the Boiler. Completed all the internal wiring and only have the Heating Element Cable to make. This is what the cabinet that houses the Control Unit and all of the other parts looks like less the top panel.

Have a great day,
Thomas
« Last Edit: October 13, 2017, 07:18:39 PM by Ye-Ole Steam Dude »

Offline MJM460

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #38 on: October 14, 2017, 12:12:17 AM »
Beautiful job on that heater control system, Thomas.  Have you found an rtd suitable for the temperatures?  Or can your controller be reprogrammed to take a thermocouple?

It sounds like it is time to get out the hacksaw and the milling machine to get those boiler ends underway, those machine shops are supposed to save your time, not prolong the project.

MJM460
The more I learn, the more I find that I still have to learn!

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #39 on: October 14, 2017, 09:06:59 AM »
Beautiful job on that heater control system, Thomas.  Have you found an rtd suitable for the temperatures?  Or can your controller be reprogrammed to take a thermocouple?

It sounds like it is time to get out the hacksaw and the milling machine to get those boiler ends underway, those machine shops are supposed to save your time, not prolong the project.

MJM460

G' day MJM460

Yes, the RTD is specific for boiling liquid and it is a lot more sensitive and more accurate than a TC. The part that I ordered came from Auber Instruments, Inc. and I have used these in the past with excellent results.

And yes again, the Controller will accept a TC, but as stated above the RTD is a better choice.

I have been delayed for over a month because of the company making promise to "knock" my parts out within a few days and never did do the work.

I did receive the new raw plates for the ends yesterday and will start to work on them today. If all goes well, should be ready for an air pressure test next week.

Have a great day,
Thomas

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #40 on: October 14, 2017, 09:54:59 PM »
Hey everyone,

Took almost all day to get this little bit of work done on the Boiler but I am getting closer now. Did the layout and drilled all the holes and then bent each piece to shape. Then I tacked welded the end plates in place so that they would not warp while welding on all the half-couplings. After all the half-couplings were welded on I then completed weld all the seams of the plates.

Now it is time for a refreshing strong drink.

Later,
Thomas

Offline Jon Cameron

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #41 on: October 14, 2017, 11:25:25 PM »
Enjoy the drink Thomas, I've enjoyed reading through the thread and the work you've done.

Not to go over said points again, and you are quite into the build now to make any design changes.....but.......why square again???

I read on page 2 I think about you intending to use baffles, is that one baffle going to suffice or am I missing something?

I know you aren't intending on using at high pressure, but I do worry about the sides bulging as others have mentioned.

I am interested in the electric heating element, certainly a cleaner way to steam the engines

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #42 on: October 15, 2017, 12:24:04 AM »
Enjoy the drink Thomas, I've enjoyed reading through the thread and the work you've done.

Not to go over said points again, and you are quite into the build now to make any design changes.....but.......why square again???

I read on page 2 I think about you intending to use baffles, is that one baffle going to suffice or am I missing something?

I know you aren't intending on using at high pressure, but I do worry about the sides bulging as others have mentioned.

I am interested in the electric heating element, certainly a cleaner way to steam the engines

Hello Jon,

I am making the unit Square to produce more volume of water at the lowest "level" of fill. This allows me to "set" the heating element closer to the bottom with a good safety factor for a low water condition. Draw a 6" circle and place it into a 6" square and you will see what I am describing.

On post #20 I included the formulas ( in a pdf format ) used to calculate the pressure/stress. At 15psi the Boiler has a comfortable 4 to 1 safety factor.

On post #31 is a cutaway drawing showing the placement of the baffle. It is welded to the top, bottom and both sides except for the four corners that have been removed to allow for both the water and steam to pass through both chambers.

Look at post #37, the second photo which is an end view of the tank showing the baffle welded inside. If you look close, you can see the open areas where the corners were removed.

And yes, the electric element is a very fast, simple and clean way to produce a lot of steam. With the advent of all the new compact "controllers" it makes electric heating even better. I used to design and make units ( although not as fancy as the unit that I purchased ) using 10-turn potentiometer ( which are very expensive ) and SSR's. The operation was manual and required constant review, but hey it worked.

Have a great day,
Thomas

Offline Jon Cameron

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #43 on: October 15, 2017, 01:18:12 AM »
Hello Thomas,

I just though that the one baffle seemed a bit low on bracing on paper, I can see you've done the sums, it is a rather unconventional design but I can see the logic of wanting more volume with the added benefit of been able to run the boiler a lot lower.

When it's in steam will you be using an additive in the water to prevent corrosion much like the large steam engines with steel boiler do?

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Help with fittings on a Boiler
« Reply #44 on: October 15, 2017, 01:33:16 AM »
Hello Thomas,

I just though that the one baffle seemed a bit low on bracing on paper, I can see you've done the sums, it is a rather unconventional design but I can see the logic of wanting more volume with the added benefit of been able to run the boiler a lot lower.

When it's in steam will you be using an additive in the water to prevent corrosion much like the large steam engines with steel boiler do?

Hey again Jon,

No I plan on using bottled distilled water. I am on a community water system here at my house which is a deep well but loaded with "treatment chemicals" and I don't want that in the tank. This will be so easy to drain after each use that I don't think I will have any problems. I have been reading up on various "paints" like ceramic and others that will take high heat and very resistant to any form or corrosion and might coat the inside.

Later,
Thomas