Author Topic: Back to Steam  (Read 64319 times)

Online Jasonb

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #30 on: September 06, 2017, 07:43:27 AM »
ChuckKey--You are right, of course. It should be called the "cross-head guide". I noticed that error as soon as I had posted, but didn't know if anybody would catch it or not.---Brian

Brian, when it is round it is called a TRUNK guide as Chuck said not a cross head guide even though it does guide the crosshead.

Offline Johno

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #31 on: September 06, 2017, 09:18:44 AM »
I suspect that many of naming conventions derive from old English at a time when such engines were at the forefront of technology and naming conventions were developing rapidly . As others have said; 'trunk guide' seams common for a competent that encircles the crosshead, 'crosshead column' or just 'column' appears to be used for a component where the crosshead slides against it. In either case it appears that it is seldom or ever referred to a the 'cylinder support column' which is its other prime function. Stuart's name for such a component is 'standard'.

In the UK, within engineering, as is other things, there still remains regional differences for the same thing. Does any body want to share a 'glossary of terms'. If so, the debate could be great fun and go on for ever.

Ian

ChuckKey

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #32 on: September 06, 2017, 10:39:14 AM »
Rectangular section guides for crossheads are usually called slidebars, and come as:
1 bar passing through a rectangular hole in the crosshead, used in marine and loco practice
1 bar with a slot through the middle, or two bars to the same side of the gudgeon pin, with an H-section crosshead slipper, often used in marine engines,
2 bars either side of the gudgeon pin, with an 'alligator' crosshead
3 bars to one side,with a T-shaped slipper, these two often used on locomotive outside cylinders,
4 bars with a flat slab crosshead, used on horizontal stationary engines and locomotive inside cylinders.   

Online Jasonb

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #33 on: September 06, 2017, 10:55:54 AM »
Or they don't need to be bars at all  in which case I would just term them cross head guides, bit like these ones on the Tidman engine I made which are a machined part of the "casting"







Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #34 on: September 07, 2017, 12:23:27 AM »
Okay--how are we going to do this?---Maybe--Start with a piece of 1/2" flatbar, with the overall height and width and thickness machined to match the outside of the legs.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #35 on: September 07, 2017, 12:24:31 AM »
Stick it in the mill vice with a piece of aluminum packing on both sides and drill then bore the 13/16" diameter hole as shown. The aluminum packing on both sides protects the jaws of my mill vice, and more importantly, prevents ripping at the top of the legs where they become a sharp corner.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #36 on: September 07, 2017, 12:25:23 AM »
Then we go in and hog away the center material, leaving it as shown.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #37 on: September 07, 2017, 12:26:07 AM »
I turn the cylindrical portion to the correct finish diameter and the turned down section is at finished length. The larger diameter is left about 1" longer than it will end up so I can chuck it in the lathe. I will probably make a holding fixture to hold both parts in the correct relationship to each other, and do my silver soldering at this stage.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #38 on: September 07, 2017, 12:27:38 AM »
At this stage, I will drill and ream the center hole to finished size in the lathe, then over to my chuck on my rotary table to machine the slot in.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #39 on: September 07, 2017, 12:28:23 AM »
And now its back into the lathe and parted off to the correct length. The feet on the bottom of the legs will be silver soldered on as separate pieces.

Offline crueby

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #40 on: September 07, 2017, 01:10:31 AM »
That was virtually interesting, in an imaginary sort of way...   :Lol:


Good way to work out the sequence, maybe you should model the chuck to ensure that the jaws clear the legs?


 :popcorn:

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #41 on: September 07, 2017, 01:20:17 AM »
That was virtually interesting, in an imaginary sort of way...   :Lol:


Good way to work out the sequence, maybe you should model the chuck to ensure that the jaws clear the legs?


 :popcorn:

The legs stick out of the chuck, not inside it.--And by the way, I do have a model of the chuck. in fact, I have a model of darn near everything. :Jester:

Offline MJM460

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #42 on: September 07, 2017, 03:49:50 AM »
Hi Brian, that looks like a great way to proceed.  It makes me feel that even I could do it.  But please show good pictures of your fixtures to hold it all in place for the silver soldering.  That is the area I have the most difficulty.

Following along on a great looking model.

MJM460
The more I learn, the more I find that I still have to learn!

Online Jasonb

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #43 on: September 07, 2017, 07:34:36 AM »
Brian, why not solder the feet on at the same time.

1. you won't risk melting the previous joint
2. you can machine the bottoms of the feet at the same time as the trunk is bored so the whole thing will sit true on the base
3. While you still have the chucking piece the feet can be squared off so it does not matter if the move slightly while soldering, drill for foot fixings at same setting.

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Back to Steam
« Reply #44 on: September 07, 2017, 01:24:07 PM »
Good plan, Jason. I was thinking the same thing after I went to bed last night.--Brian

 

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