Jan Ridder's Glass-Cylinder Flame Eater Mk2

[Kim]

Very cool, Bent! It runs quite well.  Should make you feel pretty good to see it running like that
Kim

[b.lindsey]

Nicely done Bent. One thing you might try is using pipe cleaners for a wick, the wire in them will let you bend them more easily towards the port and they will stay put!!

Bill

[Plani]

Congratulations Bent!  That's a nice runner. I especially like the see through cylinder.
Maybe you could also make a longer pipe holding the wick in order to get the flame closer to the port?

Plani

[bent]

Thanks Thomas, Kim, Bill and Plani!

I did notice last night that the engine began to slow down, and eventually quit running.  Couldn't figure out why until I noticed that the threaded pin on the valve piston had worked its way back out under the repeated impacts of the power piston pushing it open.  This results in the valve piston not fully opening the flame port.  Threading the pin back in solves the issue, but I will need to try some threadlocker (wonder how well it will work on graphite?), or put a jam nut on the back side of the piston.

Pipe cleaners - awesome idea Bill!  Plani, your idea is how it looks like Jan built his original - with an angled tube; I'd have to mill off the tube I soldered and re-jigger it, but it would work.

I bolted the whole thing to a plank of wood I found in the back of the shop here at work, and I'll put a drop of 603 on the piston pin, then bring the camera in tomorrow and see if it will run through a full tank of gas alky.

[Ian S C]

Bent, try using a bundle of fine iron, or stainless steel wire, I use a wire that is use by florests in flower arranging.  I'v used this type of wick in sizes ranging from 1/8" dia  up to 3/8".
Ian S C

[bent]

Thanks Ian, another good idea.  I assume you just twist a bundle of the wires together to form a "wick"?  Pretty sure I have some fine stainless wire around, either here at work or at home.

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Good morning Bent,

I just sent you a PM.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[NickG]

Well done, these are tricky to get running! I made the metal version and it takes a long time to eat warm enough to run! Once you get it in the right position you can hear it take off exactly like yours. Mine being the cast iron piston it also likes oil to help it run, it’s messy and needs cleaning out but believe it or not I think the oil prevents build up of combustion residue on mine. They are temperamental to say the least but unique and intriguing to watch once they get going! My other two flame eaters use graphite pistons and are much more reliable - definitely the way forward. I wonder whether your DNA has absorbed a bit of moisture as the flame does look quite orange.


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[bent]

Hi Nick, thanks for the comments.  Jan did reply to my video, and made similar comments about the cylinder needing to be warmed up before the engine will start/run continuously.  After mounting the engine to a piece of wood for a base, which prevents the engine from moving away from the burner, it starts much more reliably.  About 3 or 4 starting spins, then off it goes.  But yes, as the flame burns down and gets more and more yellow/diffuse (more and more water content?) the speed drops and eventually it just stops.  Not a big deal, it runs about 5 or 10 minutes on a fill, so I'm happy with it.  And it is a good way to use up my crappy can of alky .

[NickG]

That’s good going. I do keep planning to replace the iron piston and valve with graphite some day and need something to stop the burner moving as you said, flame position is critical on this design.


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