The "Little Pearl" Single Cylinder Marine Engine

[b.lindsey]

OK, today I finally got the through bore done on the base for the Little Pearl. Now the bearings and crankshaft can be fitted (and hopefully line up well). Photo 1 shows the basic setup in the mill vise. After finding the location for the through hole I center drilled it (photo 2), drilled with an 11/16" S&D drill (photo 3), bored it closer to the required .750 final size (sorry forgot to take a picture of that), and then finally reaming with a .750" reamer (photo 4). The results are shown in the final photo sitting on my desk. Maybe this is the weekend I can get Zee that family shot, well at least a semi-family shot. I do still have to make the second bearing though on the Cowells. Will do that tomorrow.

Bill



 

[b.lindsey]

One evening this week, I also finished up the first eccentric strap by milling the top down to the required height and drilling and tapping the central hole. This is shown in photo 1 and the finished strap in photo 2 (with the exception of the grub screw holes in the hub and the oil hole in the strap itself).  I will try and get the second strap also finished this weekend.

Bill

[zeeprogrammer]

Maybe this is the weekend I can get Zee that family shot, well at least a semi-family shot.

 

I do like family shots. It's not about pressuring any one to get parts done (I can hardly be one to complain). It's just cool to see the progress some one has made and to know the work and love that went into it.

[crueby]

Bill, that base and the straps are sure looking great! Very well done! I like your setup for boring the crank holes, looks like it was good and solid.

[b.lindsey]

Thanks for looking in guys. I will have more to show tomorrow I hope. I was glad to get that boring done, everything depends on good alighment!!

Bill

[b.lindsey]

This is for Zee.... a semi-family shot of the base part of the engine with one bearing installed along with the crankshaft, straps (one not finished yet), and flywheel. The other bearing will be made today.

Bill

[b.lindsey]

I spent a nice afternoon on the Cowells making the second bearing. I turned the major OD and then bored for a close slip fit on the crankshaft (photo 1), using the small hole gage to check the bore as it got close (photo 2). The drill rod crankshaft measures .5005" and the bore of the bearing is .501".  LH and RH turning tools were used for the undercut portion with tailstock support (photo 3). Once that was done it was parted off and the  cut off end cleaned up to the final length needed. The cowells now needs a good vacuuming (photo4). As I get more used to the DRO set-up, the more I like it. It seems to be dead on and certainly makes life easier when working with imperial dimensions. The last picture shows the second bearing in place and ready for the cap to be put on. Fortunately things lined up well and though it needs some running in, I am happy with the fits.

Bill

[crueby]

I haven't seen that kind of hole gauge before, is that something you made?


 

[Thor]

I haven't seen that kind of hole gauge before, is that something you made?


 

I got mine from Arceurotrade - http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Inside-and-Outside-Gauges/Small-Hole-Gauge-Set-4pcs-3mm-13mm-18-12

Thor

[b.lindsey]

Chris, I have had these for at least 20 years, probably more and find them useful for just such things as these bearing bores and sheaking up on the desired diameter. Much like telescoping gages for larger holes, they require a feel in order to be accurate. They are what I consider a passivie tool, they don't measure directly and so require a mic or calipers to measure. I added a couple of pictures. As you can see they are only good from .125" up to .500" or 3.2mm up to 12.7mm. I nearly fainted when I looked them up on MSC:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/86425378?fromRR=Y

I know I didn't pay more than $40 or so for them back then. But since they aren't a direct measuring tool and aren't used constantly, then a less expensive set would do just as well. They can also be used to measure slot width within the same ranges but for shallow slots what is called a half ball type would be better.

Bill

Edit: on this side of the pond it looks like Penn Tool would be the go to option:

http://www.penntoolco.com/shg-050/

[zeeprogrammer]

This is for Zee.... a semi-family shot of the base part of the engine with one bearing installed along with the crankshaft, straps ...

 

That's looking more than great Bill.

Thanks for the shot!

[b.lindsey]

Thanks Zee. Even though there is more finished it is all waiting on the pedestal to be added to the base so things can go vertical. As good start has been made on the cylinder, and the head/crosshead assembly is already done, just haven't found a way yet to hang them in mid air for a "taller" family shot and I must say the pedestal has been and is a bit of a head scratcher as far as machining goes. I keep hoping for some kind of epiphany on that but nothing yet 

Bill

[crueby]

Bill/Thor, thanks for the info on the gages, look like a useful item, and glad there are options other than that Starrett set!

How do you feel they compare to an inside-micrometer, with the pins out the jaws, accuracy wise?

[b.lindsey]

Today O finished up the second eccentric strap so here is a picture of the base with both finished straps, both bearings, and the flywheel. The oil holes and grub screws on the strap hubs have also been added so these are now done. Its on to finish up the cylinder now.

Bill

[crueby]

All that bronze looks great!