The "Little Pearl" Single Cylinder Marine Engine

[b.lindsey]

Not really Chris, just new and sharp. They are coated but I honestly don't find much difference between the coated and uncoated in a non-production environment.

Bill

[crueby]

Not really Chris, just new and sharp. They are coated but I honestly don't find much difference between the coated and uncoated in a non-production environment.

Bill

I had wondered about that one - never tried the coated ones, wondered if I was missing anything.

[b.lindsey]

Actually its getting harder to find the plain old HSS ones. These were a name brand (Hertel) as I recall and also on sale in the monthly MSC flyer, so I bought 4 and put a few away for later use.

Bill

[crueby]

Actually its getting harder to find the plain old HSS ones. These were a name brand (Hertel) as I recall and also on sale in the monthly MSC flyer, so I bought 4 and put a few away for later use.

Bill

Recently I've tried the Cobalt steel ones, find they last longer. My big drill set is the cobalt steel, like them a lot, they stay sharp a long time. Price is not bad either.

[b.lindsey]

After a bit of fettling and sanding here are the last pictures for today. The smaller end still needs to have the slot cut in it for the middle link, a set screw hole and a couple of oil holes but that will wait until tomorrow as well as a bit more clean-up and polishing.

Bill

[crueby]

Quite a complex little part, looking great!

[steamboatmodel]

Not really Chris, just new and sharp. They are coated but I honestly don't find much difference between the coated and uncoated in a non-production environment.

Bill

In most home shop our equipment does not have the power, speed and rigidity to use the coated ones plus we are usually not measuring tool life down to the minute. Worked at one place where they had just gotten a CNC mill, they were using uncoated mills and drills sharpening them when needed. I got them to try some coated tooling and I adjusted the speeds and feeds, it cut the machining time down to a quarter of what it had been. the only problem I had was the complaints about the noise, you had to wear ear protection around the machine.
Gerald
Retired CNC programmer/operator. 

[b.lindsey]

Here are some pictures of the upper link as it will fit with the other parts already completed in the valve train. Now on to the middle link which is flat and a lot simpler

Bill

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Beautiful machining and nice looking pieces.

[b.lindsey]

Thanks for looking in Thomas.

Bill

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Looking mighty fine Professor  . Hot over y'alls way is it? Smokin here 

Cletus

[b.lindsey]

Sure is Cletus...just went up to the neighborhood WalMart grocery to pick up a few things...thought the soles of my shoes were gonna melt walking across the parking lot...lol!! Supposed to break a little bit around mid week though with some clouds and rain.

Prof.

[b.lindsey]

Started on the middle link last night but didn't get the pictures posted until now. The first picture shows one of the castings supplied which is actually three castings in one, each a rectangular block of varying thickness. The middle link would have come from the middle section of this group. However, rather than go this route, I have a small block of bronze that I thought would be easier to use and with less machining. After getting the width, length and thickness milled and the two holes located and drilled, I put it in the 4 jaw chuck and parted it off with enough material on the parted side to later mill off to a total thickness of just under .187".  That is where I left off and will pick up there this evening. Once the thickness is planned down, both ends need to be rounded, a slight taper added to one side and then two 2-56 holes drilled and tapped for set screws to hold the pins in which connect the middle link to the upper and lower links at assembly. I should have more to post tonight.

Bill

[b.lindsey]

Wasn't able to do much during the week but did get the center link finished today between a few other house chores. Picking up where I left off last time, I flipped the parted off piece over in the mill vise and flycut the parted off side down to the final thinkness needed (photo 1). Then turning it on edge, I located and tap drilled the two holes for the 2-56 set screws that will hold the pins in place (photo 2). For clearance purposes, one edge has a slight taper so I set that up and flycut it as well (photo 3). Finally, the two ends needed to be rounded and I did this with the small drum sander in the mill (photo 4).

The finished part is shown in photo 5 and shown in place in the fork of the top link in the last two photos. This isn't the final pin shown in the photos. I will make that from drill rod. Will start on something new tomorrow, maybe the final of these three links. Thanks for looking in.

Bill

[crueby]

Very nice!

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