Author Topic: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama  (Read 112695 times)

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #105 on: June 21, 2017, 02:24:48 PM »
Big sigh of relief now eh John?  Nicely done :)

Bill

Offline wagnmkr

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #106 on: June 21, 2017, 02:44:18 PM »
I knew you could do it John. Well Done

Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!

Offline J.L.

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #107 on: June 21, 2017, 03:13:13 PM »
Thanks fellows.
Brain surgery done. At least on the brains of the engine as I approach the slide valve...

Offline J.L.

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The Butterfly Valve
« Reply #108 on: June 21, 2017, 04:53:29 PM »
Before making the valve rod and its slide, I am locating the holes in the valve chest cover.
When Tom acquired the engine parts, the gentleman before him had done an excellent job of machining the butterfly valve and its brass housing. The first picture shows it closed - the second - open.

Having this housing and valve already built is a huge leap forward in making the valve chest and its parts.

Offline J.L.

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #109 on: June 22, 2017, 12:07:27 AM »
I made an interesting discovery after drilling the holes to locate the butterfly valve housing on the valve cover. The housing was intended to be used on a #9 engine.
I thought at first that this could be a problem until I had a look at the universal instructions for governor insallations. The VIC./Beam/J.C. and #9 engines all use the same extruded brass stock. So the only difference is not the size of the fitting, but the spacing of the holes: 5/8" CRS with 7 BA or 7/8" CRS with 5BA.

Edit:
I think I am wrong. I found an old 1980 Henley-On-thames drawing #90103 labeled "Details for Building 'Beam Engine' Governor in which the valve cover plate clearly shows the hole spacing for the valve body to be 7/8" spacing rather than the 5/8" spacing.

This does not surprise me at all. Stuart underwent many changes with not only location, but with drawings over their long history. They must have had many inquiries about dinensions during the transitions. There are warnings on later drawings about relying on earlier diagrams.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2017, 10:55:12 AM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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British /American Sizes
« Reply #110 on: June 22, 2017, 01:22:26 PM »
The Stuart line of products uses BA thread sizes. They are not available without expensive import into North America.
As I have indicated earlier, a lot of fittings accompanied the beam engine. I found two studs that were intended to be used to fasten the butterfly valve houseing to the cover of the steam chest.

I did not have a 5BA tap or die. This was a shame. The holes were nicely drilled for 5BA and the nuts were proportional.

What to do? Then I looked around for an equivalent American size - #6-40 was close. So British threads meet American threads on the studs; the 6-40 on the bottom so that the holes in the cover could be tapped, and the 5BA on the top to receive the nuts.

International harmony.  :)



Offline wagnmkr

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #111 on: June 22, 2017, 02:11:06 PM »
Good job again John ... were those studs in one of the wee vials that you "had no use for and you can take them back if you want"? Ya just never know what can be used. Your solution was very clever.

Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!

Offline J.L.

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #112 on: June 22, 2017, 02:52:17 PM »
Yes, Tom, that little pill bottle contains all kinds of little goodies.

I think I was wrong again about the BA sizing. I think those studs have a 4BA thread on them. No matter, the nuts thread on them and I can thread them into the cover.

The six other studs holding to cover in place will be #3-48 (7BA?)

The edges of the cover may need a little trimming.

John
« Last Edit: June 22, 2017, 02:55:44 PM by J.L. »

Offline J.L.

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Brickslips
« Reply #113 on: June 22, 2017, 03:32:02 PM »
Well, I guess there will be no more machining for awhile...   :D

Offline J.L.

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The Engine Plinth
« Reply #114 on: June 23, 2017, 12:56:24 PM »
Bricking begins on the raised plinth of the engine.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #115 on: June 23, 2017, 01:05:34 PM »
Those are really nice John!  A shame the come from so far away though. I assume there is not a domestic supply for them.

Bill

Offline J.L.

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #116 on: June 23, 2017, 02:47:51 PM »
Yes Bill, I really enjoy working with these bricks.

I am also happy to be able to now use only white glue to fasten them. At first, I thought I would have to use contact cement. But the Lepage contact cement is both an eye and skin irrritant. The fumes are also quite strong. So I'm being careful with only the white glue until the grout is applied.

I'm also able to combine a little bit of masonry work and machining. :) I run a course of bricks with glue and let them dry while heading to the shop.

Here is the setup for fastening the valve chest to the cylinder's face.


Offline crueby

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #117 on: June 23, 2017, 03:31:24 PM »
Is the white glue in places where water condensate could collect? If so, the waterproof yellow glues like some of the titebond ones might be be. They handle the same, but resist softening again when wet.


 :popcorn:

Offline J.L.

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #118 on: June 23, 2017, 04:45:15 PM »
Hi Chris,
Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. Moisture is not an issue.
Let's hope the glue holds until things are grouted up.
John

Offline J.L.

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Re: Stuart Beam Engine in Diorama
« Reply #119 on: June 25, 2017, 05:20:54 PM »
The grout is drying. All is well.

The flywheel/crank bearing on the base establishes the placement of a lot of parts.

 

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