Tangential tool holder

[Raggle]

Much as I hate to give publicity to another site, this thread (where Niels Abildgaard joined in) should be of interest

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/another-reason-buy-make-diamond-tool-holder-10702/index2.html

He has carefully analysed this subject with a view to simple home construction, though I do not see his membership here  -  yet

Ray

[Firebird]

Hi

I'm still messing about with this, today I started on a tool holder for round 1/4" tool steel.

I'm working with a bit of steel 30mm x 15mm.

Set up the tilting vise in the mill and zero the angle guage.



Set the angle of the vise.



Zero again for the other angle.



Set the workpiece in the vise.



Checking where the drill needs to be



Drill the hole.



Check the tool steel fits ok.



Remove some waste to get the shank down to around 1/2"



Then machine the other side to form a swan neck



Chop some off in the bandsaw.



In the mill to drill and tap 5mm.



Drop in a brass slug.



Fit the tool steel and lock with a 5mm cap head bolt.





It needs some more work yet but its getting there.

Cheers

Rich

[zeeprogrammer]

Always watching with interest Rich.
I remember when I first started this hobby and following your pump thread.

I admit I look in hopes of another peek out your windows. Always liked that.
I noticed you have a door in your shop to the outside. Right? That's cool.

[Firebird]

Hi Carl

My workshop is seperate and away from the house, that is the entry door.

cheers

Rich

[Arbalest]

Nice work Rich! This is on my to do list as I may get the odd 1/4" Solid carbide shank to work with.

[Firebird]

Hi

The 1/4" round tool steel needs to be cut in half, I have found my multi tool is the best for the job.





In the grinding jig its a quick job to grind the tool.









In use its brilliant. I think this is the best surface finish I have ever had from any of my tools.

Heres a bit of video of the tool in action. I am using the power feed which is set on its maximum speed so an even better finish would be achievable by turning down the feed speed.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7TmDH9p2jM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7TmDH9p2jM</a>

I'm going to make 2 more tool holders to take 1/8" and 3/16" tool steel bits.

I'm also going to try grinding a small radius on the cutting corner of the square tool steel to see if I can get a better finish. The square tool steel cuts very easily and can take .050" cuts with ease but the finish is not so good.

The round tool steel holder can't be used for facing as well as turning like the square tool steel and can't turn up to shoulder, but you can't have everthing. Overall I am really pleased with this tool so far.

Cheers

Rich

[Jo]

Excellent job Rich .

  Another tool I need to make.

Jo

[Arbalest]

Nice work Rich. I'm planning on making one of those soon as I have a few broken 1/4" carbide mills someone gave me!

[sco]

Cool!  Another thing to add to the must make list.

[Firebird]

Hi

Today I made another tool holder to take 3/16" round tool steel. Its made in a similar fashion to the 1/4" version.





With enough steel bar left I have made a one piece tool holder for the 1/4" square tool steel.





Its far less bulky than the earlier version. I have also radiused the sharp cutting corner of the tool steel very slightly with a grinding stone in the dremel type tool. It now cuts beautifully and leaves a super smooth finish.



Heres the 4 tool holders together. The original square holder is bottom right.



Its a great tool and well worth making one.

Cheers

Rich

[sco]

Well I've had a go at my take on one of these tools, went for a different style to Firebirds with the idea that it would work as a left hand and right hand tool, here's the assembly (stud is just temporary till I can get a long cap screw);


View from the top;


End detail of the holder;


Side view assembled;


Top view assembled;


There is a bit more work to do to get it to mount satisfactorily in my QCTP but the sticking point is the grinding jig, I went for a 15degree slope of the bit to the vertical in the pure fore / aft direction so what angle should the bit be ground to?

Cheers for any suggestions,

Simon

[Firebird]

Hi Simon.

Thats a clever way of holding the tool bit

The first jig I made which is similar to the commercial one I used 12? for all angles. This first jig is designed for use on a grinding wheel. The second jig is designed to be used on a disc sander and gives a flat face has a 30? angle but holds the tool bit a different way. Both jigs are shown earlier in the post.

Cheers

Rich

[sco]

Rich,

I saw your jigs - and was going to copy one of them!  I have a combination grinder and belt sander so I can utilise either, your jigs position the bit at a compound angle if I understand correctly.  This is the bit I'm stuck on whether I need a compound angle too or just fore / aft?

I might grind up a test bit first freehand to see what the angle should be approximately and go from there.

Simon.

[Firebird]

Hi Simon

Yes you need the compound angle, this ensures that the point that doe's the cutting is less than 90? and therefore gives clearance. The actual angle is not too critical I don't think, somewhere there abouts will do, the idea being that if you use a jig to grind and re-sharpen you get exactly the same angle every time which is almost impossible to do free hand.

Cheers

Rich

[ScroungerLee]

Simon, how did you make the square hole?

Lee