Author Topic: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss  (Read 39687 times)

Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #285 on: June 26, 2019, 08:09:21 AM »
Jason,

Spokes weren't badly cast at all, picture below shows the flywheel undercut section I'm trying to reproduce.

Simon.
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Online Jasonb

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #286 on: June 26, 2019, 08:35:12 AM »
Thanks Simon and I can also see the thinner section spokes.

Bit of a pain for the foundry man and pattern maker as they would have needed a ring of loose pieces around the edge of the pattern to be able to pull that from the sand.

Is that a one or two piece flywheel?

Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #287 on: June 26, 2019, 08:43:06 AM »
Real flywheel is a two piece - I believe there is now a two piece casting available but that's one detail I'm going to ignore.

Simon.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2019, 08:48:08 AM by sco »
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Offline fumopuc

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #288 on: June 26, 2019, 09:43:46 PM »
Hi Simon, great job.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Dennis

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #289 on: July 08, 2019, 03:47:28 PM »
Hi Simon,

Thank you for posting the flywheel machining photos.  It looks like your machining process is working quite well.  Machining a flywheel this way is a lot of extra work compared to doing the machining on a lathe but if you don't have a big enough lathe it is well worth the extra effort.  I think your posting could help a lot of people.

As far as I know, you are the first person to machine the flywheel rim to match the original engine.  Excellent work and very well thought out.  I would have loved to cast the rim with undercut however, the coring became very complicated and would drive the foundryman crazy not to mention the extra cost, and with the very limited number of foundries that will work with model engineers we need to keep the foundryman happy! 

I left the spokes a little beefy to make sure the iron would flow well throuogh the spokes to fill the center hub.  Machining the spokes a little flatter like you have done brings the flyweel another step closer to the original engine design. 

Looking forward to seeing the finished wheel.

Dennis





Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #290 on: July 09, 2019, 10:49:43 AM »
Thanks Dennis and Achim.  I've finished machining the second side of the flywheel and have attacked the spokes with the Dremel to round off the spokes and get more of a tapered shape - they are still a bit rippled so need some more work to improve that but have taken a break from that op to bore the central hole.

Simon.
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Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #291 on: July 14, 2019, 02:04:48 PM »
Went very slowly and carefully to open up the bore to give a close sliding fit on the flywheel axle - taking out the final cuts revealed a miniscule blow hole in the centre of the bore but nothing to worry about.

I took two pieces of square bar and turned a round section on them, these pins were then fitted in the flywheel bore and held in place by a short piece of bar.  I then used the boring head to machine out the inside of the pins to match the bore diameter minus a few thou to hopefully give me tight fitting keys to lock the flywheeel to the shaft.  Once the inside was machined out the pins were removed and then the un-machined ends sawed off.

Simon.
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Offline Dennis

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #292 on: July 14, 2019, 03:15:45 PM »
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the latest FW photos.  The wheel is looking good.

The small shrink hole in the hub is not a surprise.  The hub is filled by way of the spokes on this pattern.  The spokes are a small cross section so they obviously cool and close off before the hub completely solidifies.  We put some extra length on both sides of the hub (which I had to cut off to get under the 20 pound international shipping weight requirement at the post office) to slow down the cooling of the hub and help keep the shrink in the center where it will be machined out.  The foundry can put a blind shrink bulb on the hub when they make the mold but that is extra work for them so I did not specify it as long at the shrink stays in the middle of the hub.

The keys you made are very interesting,  I have never seen keys like that on the engines I have looked at or I may have missed the detail.  Maybe my inexperience is showing a bit but I am not shure I understand how they work.  Any reference you can recommend would be appreciated.

Dennis

Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #293 on: July 14, 2019, 03:52:35 PM »
Dennis,

The keys are a bit of a cheat to avoid having to cut a square slot in the flywheel but definitely taper keys that drive the flywheel by friction (no slot) are quite common - not the best example but you can see them in the flywheel at the end of this video:

https://youtu.be/3-SFBS85WTM

Simon.
Ars longa, vita brevis.

Online Jasonb

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #294 on: July 14, 2019, 04:30:20 PM »
but definitely taper keys that drive the flywheel by friction (no slot) are quite common -

If they are parallel sided then how can they be taper keys?

I have seen "saddle keys" used where the inner edge of the key is shaped to follow the shaft much like you have done but the outer edge of the key is tapered so they wedge in but the two matching taper in the flywheel ensure the force is at right angles to the shaft, just forcing them in may tilt the flywheel and result in a wobble.

Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #295 on: July 14, 2019, 04:43:31 PM »
Jason,

I'm just trying to get something that looks reasonable and has a light fit to prevent the flywheel from moving on the shaft.  Even with a slotting head I felt it was going to be difficult to cut the 40mm long slot all the way through the flywheel boss so this seemed an easier way to go.

Simon.
Ars longa, vita brevis.

Online Jasonb

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #296 on: July 14, 2019, 04:53:31 PM »
40mm long hub would be no problem with a broach, do all mine that way plain and tapered but if you have spent all your pocket money on that mill then needs must ;)

Offline kvom

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #297 on: July 14, 2019, 08:44:40 PM »
I was able to broach the same flywheel castin, but needed the hydraulic press.  Also had  to buy the breach.  So if you're looking  for economy alternate methods work too.

Online sco

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #298 on: July 14, 2019, 09:04:11 PM »
Broach would undoubtedly do the job but the engine will not do any real work and unlike an i.c. engine the power pulses should be smooth so don't see the need to positively lock the flywheel to the axle.  If it slips in use I'll add some grub screws.

My biggest fear with machining the flywheel on the mill was getting the central bore out of alignment with the rim - I mounted the flywheel on a stub of silver steel and checked the runout - 0,1mm radial and 0.2mm axial - I can live with that!

Simon
Ars longa, vita brevis.

Offline rarach22

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Re: Lane and Bodley 400hp Corliss
« Reply #299 on: July 14, 2019, 10:41:28 PM »
beautiful tool work ...... congratulations
Pavel