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Now you're really making me wish I'd gone to that effort That looks bloody perfect . Have you done both bearings or is that the first?Personally I would use En1a for the crankshaft as with cast iron (or cast bronze) that makes for a very good running combination. Silver steel isn't always 'round' either, tends to be three lobed due to the grinding process - perhaps something to bear in mind too. Besides, En1a is so much nicer to machine Nice work Simon - Tug
Good Morning Simon,Just saw the work you have done on the main journal and bearings. Excellent as always. I certainly hope I have an opportunity to see the finish model in person, it is going to be one of the best for this model.If I understand some of the comments correctly, there is confusion as to what is behind the disk on the crank face on the original engine. I was not allowed to take the disk off but if this engine is like others, there is a two piece clamp ring with an inner and outer ring. both rings are tapered front to back on the mating surfaces and slotted. There are bolts running through the taper sections from front to back such that when the bolts are tightened, the ring can expand and clamp onto both the crank shaft and the crank arm resulting in a concentric clamp. I found drawings for this type of crank arm clamp in the archives at Henry Ford Museum. I am sure there are also some keys in both the shaft and crank arm that hold part of the rotation forces. When I had a good look at the design, I decided the parts would be too thin for me and most model builders so decided to leave it out and use a simple key and set screw to attach the crank arm. If anyone is interested, I will try to find my notes from that research trip to the museum (it has been a while) and make a sketch of the locking ring to post here.Hope this helps.Dennis