1st I.C. build "Tiny"

[b.lindsey]

Bob, I found the taps I needed in my toolbox at work, but many thanks for the offer.

Bilk

[gbritnell]

Boy that looks familiar! I can't wait to hear it popping away like mad.
gbritnell

[90LX_Notch]

Thank you George.  Your work and attention to detail has always been an inspiration for me. 

-Bob

[Don1966]

Beautiful work Bob and I bet you will be glad to hear that first pop.....


 
Don

[90LX_Notch]

Thanks Don.  I appreciate that you are still following along. The day she pops I will have a big smile.

-Bob

[90LX_Notch]

I had a very bad bout with my allergies Saturday that prevented me from getting in the shop.  The plan was to make the cutter and gears this weekend, that "went out the window" Saturday.    Feeling much better Sunday I knocked off a few little items. 


Misc.: Linkage rod end,  rod end pin and gas cap. 


I have additional pictures that I will post once the batteries for the camera recharge.


-Bob

[b.lindsey]

It's still progress Bob, glad your allergies are better too!!

Bill

[steamer]

It's coming along nicely Bob!    I'll get back to mine eventually.....

Dave

[90LX_Notch]

Thanks Bill.  Luckily, I only have a few bouts a year with my allergies.

Thanks Dave.  You have to finish yours; then one day at a future Cabin Fever we can get a picture of the three of us with our Tinys.


Here are the pictures I mentioned above of the parts installed.  I also included a picture of drilling a .0135 (#80) diameter cross hole in the pin. 

As mentioned earlier in this thread, I have a piece of scrap aluminum that I use for doing this that has a couple of 10-32 threaded holes for clamps.  I mill a fresh surface on the scrap, then cut a small vee shaped groove with a center dril along one axis.  The other axis is locked for this and remains locked.  This creates a vee  for the pin to lay in that is 100% aligned and centered to the spindle.  The pin is then clamped in the vee and the edge is picked up with an edge finder, then the hole position is located.  A small center drill is used to make a very small spot.  The drill is held in a modified pinvise (indicated in the four jaw and a section of the knurl was removed and turned to .250).  The pinvise is held in a 1/4 inch collet in the mill.  Then the drilling begins.  I backout and clear the chips every .010.  This particular exercise was five diameters through steel.

-Bob

[b.lindsey]

Looking good Bob!!  I didn't put a cap on the fuel tank filler tube, but its probably a good idea.

Bill

[Dave Otto]

Very nice work Bob,

Do you run into the problem where the chisel point of the center drill is larger than the drill that you intend to use? I have often wondered about this.
Also about the pin chuck, I'm not clear exactly how you are indicating it in? Do you do this in the lathe and then transfer it to the mill? If you have some time I would like to better understand your process.

Again, very nice work!
Dave

[90LX_Notch]

Dave years ago I modified two A size pin vises by turning part of the knurl off each.  They were held the four jaw chuck and indicated near where the Starrett logo is roll stamped.  The attached picture shows a stock B size pin vise and one of my modified A size pin vises.  You can see where I removed the knurl.  This area was turned to .250 so that the pin vise can be held in a collet when in use.  The joke of it all is that I found out later that Starrett does offer pin vises that are not knurled in the same area. 

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.


-Bob

[steamer]

Dave years ago I modified two A size pin vises by turning part of the knurl off each.  They were held the four jaw chuck and indicated near where the Starrett logo is roll stamped.  The attached picture shows a stock B size pin vise and one of my modified A size pin vises.  You can see where I removed the knurl.  This area was turned to .250 so that the pin vise can be held in a collet when in use.  The joke of it all is that I found out later that Starrett does offer pin vises that are not knurled in the same area. 

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.


-Bob

I just picked up a 162C for the Watchmakers lathe,   I'll be machining the back of it to fit the tailstock runner on the Levin....relative to the collet.

Dave

[90LX_Notch]

Dave, sorry I forgot to answer your first question.  I have a couple very small center drills that have something like a .020 nose on them.  What I basically do is put some black Sharpie where I am going to spot and watch the center drill come down to the part through a 10x loupe.  As soon as I see metal dust appear on the Sharpie I backoff.  This makes a very small spot.

-Bob   

[90LX_Notch]

Dave (steamer)- The only thing you have to watch is that the collet nut on the pin vise can easily thread up unevenly which causes the jaws to not close equally, causing the drill to not be true.  When running it in a spindle, it is very apparent when this happens because the drill flutes will look like a DNA chain.  There have been times when I have loosened the nut and indexed the drill and retightened the nut for 10 plus minutes just to get a small drill to run dead true.

-Bob