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I played with doing something similer and I ran into problems. I had no issues cleaning up the hub but the rim was a disaster. With no support it just flexed and rang like a bell. I ended up trashing the casting. The lesson learned is that you need something like a face plate to add rigidity and support the turning loads on the rim.Tony
Quote from: AOG on March 06, 2017, 09:02:56 PMI played with doing something similer and I ran into problems. I had no issues cleaning up the hub but the rim was a disaster. With no support it just flexed and rang like a bell. I ended up trashing the casting. The lesson learned is that you need something like a face plate to add rigidity and support the turning loads on the rim.TonyDo you think that adding a support plate to the setup, to help hold the spokes/rim rigid, would make that setup work? I'm wondering if the mill column would be rigid enough?
Has any one tried a set up as shown to true a 7" diameter fly wheel on a SHERLINE mill?
After reading all the good advice I think I found a solution that I can handle. First I'll mount the flywheel on my mill. Level and machine the face of the hub, locate a center and drill and ream the bore to size.Second I'll make an arbor with a slight shoulder to fit the bore. Drill and tap the end for a hole to hold the wheel on the arbor.Third rotate the lathe head toward the rear and face off the rim.Finally remount and level on the mill and face off the remaining hub face.Many of the large sprockets and gears I have used during my career only had the faces of the hub machined. I think this should be "OK" I knew Roy would want to reverse the operation cause he's standing on his head anyway. Regards to all.