building a "Tiny" too!

[steamer]

Cutters are here.   I'll need a cutter Arbor and a gear arbor.

[steamer]

I know I have a 3/16 arbor for the Aciera.    Guess I'll cut the gears on that.

I'll make a cutter arbor and a .156 arbor with a 3/8 shank so that I can grab it in a collet on the SB and the Aciera.

Dave

[b.lindsey]

I am pondering over the same thing Dave. I have a cutter arbor for the sherline, but need something to hold the gear blanks to cut them.

Bill

[crueby]

I am pondering over the same thing Dave. I have a cutter arbor for the sherline, but need something to hold the gear blanks to cut them.

Bill

Normally I take some round bar stock, ali or brass, and make another arbor to hold in the chuck on the rotary table. Just needs to be long enough so the cutter can come through the blank without getting near the chuck jaws. I recommend using the 4 jaw since it has the hold down groove to ensure it cant loosen on the table.

[steamer]

I have 3/16  1/4  3/8 and 1/2 W12 factory arbors with spacers to fit the Aciera

I'll need a 0.156"   So as I've owned the mill, I make arbors and tooling for it.   For instance, for the Wallaby, I needed and additional 3/8 arbor to hold the gears while I fly cut the teeth.     So I have a 3/8 shank 3/8 arbor with some home spun arbor spacers....works good....I'll just make up a 0.156" version


I'll also make up a 3/8 shank x 1" cutter arbor to fit the mill    48 pitch is pretty fine, and I'm sure the Aciera can handle that.

Dave

[steamer]

The other alternative Bill, is a superglue chuck.     A straight shank on one end you grab with a collet or a chuck and a miniature faceplate on the other with annular grooves cut about an 1/8 apart.   Glue a piece of gear material on it, and then turn it round to size and face it.   Take gentle cuts...next...transfer to the dividing head and cut the teeth.     When done, wave at torch to it and the glue will let go.


A clockmakers trick for sure.....works well I did the oil pump on my Wallaby that way.

Dave

[steamer]

Check out my Wallaby thread starting at post 19 on page 2.

You can see how I used the glue chuck to machine the oil pump.....

If you start with a faced side glued to the chuck, you can bore and turn to size  and then cut the teeth all in one setting....



Dave

[b.lindsey]

I took a bit of a different approach Dave. Procedurally it worked well, even though I am not 100% happy with the first result. Will try it again tomorrow after rechecking my depth calculation. See my thread for pictures in a bit, just getting ready to post them.

Bill

[steamer]

Roughed out the head and blanked out some 300 series stainless for valves yesterday.   Easy jobs so far. 

I'll do Bob's version of the valve seat cutter....and I got some suggestions from George.....Thanks George!

Yeah Yeah.....pictures coming....

On a cool note....Samantha Bell can eat!    0.200 on diameter in a pass in stainless and I'm running out of power...not out of lathe!...if you know what I mean.

Dave

[Mosey]

Dave,
What kind of glue do you use to fasten the work (gears) to the plate when turning? When I do it with Superglue it gets hot and the glue lets go just before I'm finished. Tried 3M double-sided tape made for this and it fails also.
Mosey

Did you make the W12 arbors?  Envy.

[steamer]

The W12 x English arbors are factory....  3/16, 1/4, 3/8  and 1/2" with precision arbor spacers and nuts 

I use super glue.   Cut some grooves in the face of the chuck.   and take light cuts....Part shouldn't be getting hot enough to let go at all.

Dave

[90LX_Notch]

I'll do Bob's version of the valve seat cutter....and I got some suggestions from George.....Thanks George!

Dave-

I've been wondering, if done correctly,  if a d-bit cutter could cut the guide, port and seat all in one shot. If everything was roughed out and the d-bit was used for the final cut it just might be possible.  I was too far into the head when I made the seat cutter to try it.

-Bob

[steamer]

I think it could.   I'll be doing it that way.   The .0625 bore is got to be right, and the cuts need to be very light so as not to damage the bore with the tool pilot

Dave

[steamer]

SHOP DAY!

No racing today....so I'm running into the shop as soon as I can before they miss me!

Dave

[b.lindsey]

Enjoy Dave, and don't forget the pictures 

Bill