A simple Vertical Steam Engine.

[zeeprogrammer]

Feel the wood Jo. Feel the wood. 

[Flyboy Jim]

Thanks Jim,

While it may seem long winded it is only by explaining every step that we can overcome the fear of castings some people suffer from  .

Jo

Believe me Jo, at least as far as I'm concerned, you're accomplishing your objective. With my P & W castings, I've had absolutely no issues, but it's nice to know how to deal with any should they rear their ugly head.

Now on a completely different, and nosey note, what make of car is that in the background of the pic of your newly acquired bandsaw?

Jim

[Jo]

Now on a completely different, and nosey note, what make of car is that in the background of the pic of your newly acquired bandsaw?

That's my little "Pug" or Peugeot 206 Station Wagon. She's well over 10 years old now and still going strong. I keep thinking I should replace her but all the new cars that I like are huge in comparison so until I am forced to replace her she is staying 

Jo

[Jo]

Feel the wood Jo. Feel the wood. 

Its my age Zee,  I have some vague recollections of trying to do things with the stuff when I was younger but every time I played with it went wrong or never did what I had hoped for, however much I tried with it   .


Castings are so much more easier to get along with, they don't have a mind of their own  .

Jo

[Jo]

The Band saw is in and tested: It cuts through 6mm Ali nicely, it runs a lot slower than I was expecting.

Now I just need to find a decent blade supplier 

Jo

[Jasonb]

I would suggest you turn it 90degrees that way you can cut long items without hitting your wall

[Jo]

I would suggest you turn it 90degrees that way you can cut long items without hitting your wall

It is easily turned if needed. But if it was left that way round the table sticks out into the garage further .


I had a flying visit from my supplier this afternoon who dropped off a couple of bits of metal to make the pistons and rods out of for these engines and I have just realised he also took home my new Stentor for a fondle.. I remember what it was like trying to get my R&B back when he looked after it 

Jo

[Jo]

The Steam chests and covers have been machined as matching pairs to depth, height and width. In front of them are three bits of bar destined to become crossheads 

In theory the piston/crosshead is a forged casting but not with these engines  so I am taking the opportunity to make the piston rod out of stainless steel and to use those bits of EN1A as crossheads. If you have the casting then most of the piston rod and crosshead can be turned between centres 

The rod part started as 12mmm diameter Stainless, turned to length, with a shoulder to go in the crosshead and a bit for the threaded section left on the end. The top slide was set up using the gash end of the stainless bar until I got the taper required. Then it is a case of turning the taper down until it blends correctly at the correct depth with the main rod and the bit that is going to be threaded.

Before anything moves the pistons tapers need to be machined and all of them fitted on the rods. So back to the three jaw and mount up the (still over diameter) piston ready for boring the taper.

Jo

[b.lindsey]

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6912.0;attach=63826;image

Good thing they put that warning sign on the saw, I was about to crawl in the bottom part and watch things go round and round 

Bill

[Jo]

Good thing they put that warning sign on the saw, I was about to crawl in the bottom part and watch things go round and round 

Bill

It came out of a school at some point..Not sure why there is no warning sign on the lower door which the kids would easily be able to get at

Of course its age means there are no interlocks fitted to prevent those doors being opened while it goes round and round 

Jo

[Jo]

So having cut the tapers on the rods while everything is at the right angle it is time to cut the tapers inside the pistons. First drill 8mm for clearance for the thread on the end.

Then having marked the rod for the end of the taper see how far it fits into the piston. The final fit leaves the piston rod sticking out for 8.2mm instead of the 8.7mm it says on the drawings but I am laying bet that once the nut pulls the rod in it will move in a bit more. All three pistons were fitted to their respective rods before moving on to cut the threads on the end of the piston rods.

Mr Silky set himself up for a spot of thread cutting and using one of those nice "I can't believe how cheap they are from China" tipped carbide threading tools the 22 TPI thread was cut and a die run down to clean up any sharp edges. Quick check that the piston fits on and is tightened on nicely. Two more rods to thread cut, then I will need to make some matching nice Stainless nuts  .

Jo

[Jo]

Having screw threaded the ends of all the rods I just checked the bored diameters to turn the pistons to fit only to find the No 5A cylinder is not only over sized but also tapered   

Jo

[Jo]

The offending cylinder has been re-bored on Tgs and the top counter bore cut. Before moving anything the fit for the cover was checked, this is where remembering not to clamp the cylinder to the bed from the top face is important 

Jo

[Roger B]

Another unique feature  What's the boring bar, HSS or one of the dubious geometry carbide tipped ones?

[Jo]

Hi Roger,

That is a "german boring bar" It has an HSS tip and unlike some of the flexible carbide tipped ones it tends not to flex

I am trying to stay focused on the medicine Its so hard 

Jo