Another Tiny IC Engine

[90LX_Notch]

Very nice Bill.  One of my flywheels is currently on the rt with some of the holes drilled.  There definitely is a lot more to these then I first realized. 

-Bob

[b.lindsey]

Thanks Chris!  Bob there are a lot of these parts that are more than they first appear. The flywheels aren't hard, just a lot of repeated operations and keeping track of where you are as you are seeing yourself. I am glad to have both done now though

Bill

[Flyboy Jim]

Bill...........that family shot looks great! 

Jim

[Roger B]

Looking good    Not long now 

[Don1966]

Bill that is looking awesome, I would tell you to put a Don  shine on it but it looks damn good like it is. Not far form having a runner I see. Beautiful work buddy!



 
Don

[b.lindsey]

Many thanks, guys, I should have some more updates later this afternoon or evening.

Bill

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Well I'm waiting on the update that says "we gotta runner" . Seriously, great build thread Bill. And, and, many thanks to you for being so active and inspirational to our forum. First class act all way around 

Cletus

[90LX_Notch]

...many thanks to you for being so active and inspirational to our forum. First class act all way around 

Cletus

Well said Eric.

-Bob

[b.lindsey]

Thanks guys. Since I don't do Facebook or Twitter, etc. I suppose MEM is my online vice. I still enjoy hanging out here, mostly because of all the members like you and the atmosphere of sharing here, not to mention the inspiration I get from many of the wonderful projects here!!

Bill

[b.lindsey]

And now for this evenings update....first up the disk thingy that will hold the magnet for the hall sensor to trigger the CDI system. I cleaned up a scrap piece of 3/4" brass rod drilled and reamed the center hole to fit the crankshaft, then offset a 1/8" hold for the magnet by .250" (photo 1). Then I trimmed down both sides to an overall width of .375". A 2-56 threaded hole was added to the end opposite the magnet hole to fix it to the crankshaft and to allow for adjustment for timing purposes (photo 2). Photo 3 shows how it will fit on the off side of the crankshaft.

Bill

[b.lindsey]

With that done, it was time to make a bracket to hold the hall sensor itself. In this case I came up with something similar to what George used, but still incorporating the plastic hall sensor holder (as Gary had done) supplied by Roy as opposed to mounting the bare sensor itself. While things are tight, there is still room on the offside crankshaft for this to work. I cleaned up a short length of .500" square aluminum and located and drilled a hole about .007" larger than the crankshaft (for clearance) (photo 1). I then centered the hole in the 4 jaw chuck (photo 2) and turned a.031" shoulder around the hole to an OD of .313" to match the opening where the bearings fit in the frame (photo 3). As an aside, photo 3 shows a mistake in that I turned the shoulder on the wrong side of the piece, so had to recenter and do it again on the other side. Not an issue though as there was a lot of stock to remove on the mis-machined side. With that done half of the hole and shoulder was machined away since this is just for locating purposes anyway (photo 4), and the "fat" side was machined down to .375 overall width leaving a small tab for screw attachment to the engine frame. (photo 5). Then on the side opposite the shoulder, I milled a .270" wide slot to fit the plastic case for the hall sensor (photo 6). The finished bracket is shown in place on photo 7. Between the shoulder engaging the bearing hole and the screw into the frame, it should be plenty stable enough in operation. Photo 8 shows a similar view with the hall sensor and plastic case slid into the slot. This will ultimately be affixed with super glue or some of the adhesive I got from Roy with the CDI system.

 Bill

[b.lindsey]

Ran out of space for pictures above so the first photo below is a view of both the bracket and magnet holder in place on the crankshaft.

Photo two is of the frame for the engine base. The frame components are 1/2" x 1 1/2" red oak (my usual material). on the top side I am going to mill out a 1/2" deep pocket extending half way through the side and end frame pieces and inlay a piece of an attractive (I think) brown speckeled Corian. The photo simply shows that while things will be tight, the battery box and CDI module will fit with enough left over room to route the spark plug wire, ground wire, and hall sensor connector. The batter charging connector will remain there in the bottom, since it is only used occasionally for battery recharge. Somehow the on/off switch, and the LED "on" indicator lamp will be mounted through the corian. Some additional planning will be needed in order to get all these located in the right places, though the switch and LED could also be mounted through one of the frame pieces as well.

Bill

[b.lindsey]

I think I can rout out the top of the frame on the sherline mill, will try that this evening. Meanwhile I cut a piece of the Corian to the size needed today at work. It actually cuts quite well with a carbide tipped blade. Attached is a picture of both. In the end the top of the Corian will be flush with the top of the wooden frame. More to follow on this.

Bill

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Watch the post Professor, something for the Corian headed your way 

Cletus

[Dreeves]

Bill, you stealing my base designs 

Dave