Author Topic: Cart Me Off  (Read 14820 times)

Offline 10KPete

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2017, 05:09:38 AM »
The engine and cart are beautiiful!! I love the oak and the finger/box joints and the fact that you didn't fall into the "stain the oak dark" hole. Oak will darken a bit naturally... The whole thing is great.

Ummm, how do you put gas in the tank? does the tank come out?

Pete
Craftsman, Tinkerer, Curious Person.
Retired, finally!
SB 10K lathe, Benchmaster mill. And stuff.

Offline scc

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2017, 09:41:46 AM »
Terrific fabrication :NotWorthy:  great pics.....thanks for sharing.............Terry

Offline gerritv

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2017, 01:00:43 PM »
Beautiful craftsmanship.
I like the idea of laser cutting, I have seen some samples at our local club. Certainly saves a lot of time on the roughing out stage.

Gerrit
Don't confuse activity with progress

Offline scalemodel

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2017, 08:03:57 PM »
That cart is lovely Jason. There are so many good modlers out there that build lovely hit and miss engines then screw them to a tough piece of wood

Jonathan

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #19 on: April 02, 2017, 07:29:42 PM »
Thanks for all the comments chaps, Jonathan I'm glad you like things so far and I also know of people who stick their models on bits of firewood :???:

As well as the Horizontal R&V there is also the vertical one to finish off and stick on a cart. I was given some photos and both myself and the owner liked the same one which was handy, this is a pic that gives an idea of the desigh of the wheels, rear axle and how the axle joins the channel frame.



Cartweels to start with on this one :cartwheel:

The rear wheels will be 152mm dia which can easily be cut from 6" ERW steel tube, for the fronts I also had some thicker walled 5 1/2"  tube and by machining down the OD could get about 16mm difference in diameters. First job was to saw off a length a bit longer than needed for two rims and turn the 3mm and 5mm wall thicknesses down to give the 2mm thickness that I wanted. This is the smaller 5 1/2" tube having its OD reduced, I have left a section near the chuck full thickness to help keep the tube round as it starts to distort from the pressure from the chuck jaws if you are not careful. The larger rear wheels had the metal removed from the ID



The ring can then be sawn in half and the two wheel rims machined back to the finished 3/4" width.



As the spokes are dished the holes need to be drilled at an angle, rather than faff about setting the rotary table at an angle I used it vertically to put 10 evenly spaced spot drilled dimples around the centre line and then made a simple jig to drill the holes at alternating angles, they then had a shallow CSK added.



The hubs were machined to length and drilled through under size before mounting onto an arbor for some shaping using the ball turner.



I dusted off my old Emco Unimat 3 dividing head/indexer as it had a 40T plate which made it easy to get the 10 holes and drilled, tapped and counter bored the hubs at an angle



Finished hubs with some screws to give an idea of how the spokes should look



Talking of spokes if you thought three triples had a lot of similar parts then thats nothing to wheel building,   40 spokes threaded one end and reduced in dia the other not much change out of a 3m length of 3mm round mild steel :( plus 40 bosses drilled and rounded on one end.



To assemble the wheels each spoke had one of the bosses loosly slipped over it then the threaded end was dipped in JBWeld and screwed right into the hub following which the other end was snapped into the hole in the rim, this got a bit more difficult as more spokes were added. Once all were in the spokes were unscrewed a couple of turns until the full dia started to touch the rim at which stage the wheel was held in the lathe and the spokes tweaked to get the rim to run true much like you would true a bicycle wheel. Finally the bosses were stuck into teh counterbored holes then set aside to dry.



All that remains to do is rivit over the ends of the spokes, tidy up the dries JBWeld into neat fillets and then pop the wheels into the lateh to bore out the hub to finished size which should help get them running totally true.



J

Offline Gas_mantle

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #20 on: April 02, 2017, 08:11:31 PM »
Looks great Jason, I've wondered how people go about making spoked wheels.

Thanks for sharing your method  :)

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #21 on: April 10, 2017, 08:05:52 PM »
The two axles are quite straightforward being 14" lengths of 1/2" square bar that are turned down to 3/8" dia at each end. From the photo of the original you can see that behind the wheel there is a rounded flange and then a short section of a slightly larger square. I decided to make these as separate parts and JBWeld them into place as they are not stressed parts. While I was at it I turned 4 hubcaps as well.



The rear axle is clamped between two blocks to the rail on each side. The bottom blocks were milled from 1/4" thick stock and the top ones from 3/8" . The mill vice stop comes into it's own on jobs like this where there are several similar parts as you only need to setup for one to first drill them.



Followed by milling to shape, a home ground cutter was used to give a fillet to all the internal corners to give the blocks a cast look.



After knocking off the corners it was time for a test fit with some temporary nuts and screws, the groove at the top will be what the side rails locate into.





Talking of side rails I had made enquiries about getting some 1" x 1/2" C channel but it is obsolete in the UK and the cost of getting lengths from the US was too high so I decided to make my own. Starting with some 13x13x3mm angle the edges were preped and then welded together. To avoid distortion I tacked three one inch lengths on one side with the angles clamped to a sturdy bit of structural steel.



Then flipped it over and did matching tacks on the other side.



This was repeated several times until I had a bead of weld running the whole 25" length on both sides. Following which the welds were cut back with a grinding disc and then a flap disc in the 4.5" angle grinder



It's going to be a big'un :o





Front bolster next time.

J

Offline jeff l

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #22 on: April 11, 2017, 12:18:41 AM »
beautiful job !

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #23 on: April 11, 2017, 01:13:58 AM »
The welds cleaned up very well Jason and the cart is looking great !!

Bill

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #24 on: April 11, 2017, 01:30:12 AM »
Very nice!

Dave

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #25 on: April 23, 2017, 08:01:51 PM »
Although a lot of the smaller engine carts don't have an articulating front axle, this cart is styled more on the larger ones so I looked around for some suitable designes and came up with this.

The front axle will have a long top clamp and two small lower clamps the same as the ones on the rear axle.

Some 1/4 x 1" material had a slot milled out of it to fit over the axle, 4 holes drilled and the outside shaped to match the lower clamp plates. I also milled a shallow 5mm wide slot along the top into which I silver soldered an angled plate with a pivot hole.



I did not take a separate photo of the fork but it is a simple turning job with a 1/2" square bar solded to it that is slotted and drilled to take the axle top clamp.

To make the bolster that goes between the two side rails I started with some 3mm thick material and milled it out to leave a circular "turntable" in the middle. The shallow slot is to locate the vertical part of the "I" beam section



It was then just a case of soldering up some plates to complet the I beam, with end plates and a round boss in the middle. Looks like the solder flowed nicely along all the joints.



This is how it will fit within the two rails



The engine needs a couple of cross pieces to bolt too as the mounting holes in the base casting are not that widely spaced so I welded up a couple more short bits of angle to form some short C channels



After soldering on some end plates the channels were notched to fit within the side rails, I won't drill them until I have finalised the position of the engine.



The engine uses quite a few square headed fixings which I had previously made



So I also had to make up a batch for the cart, apart from the 4 very long ones the rest were cut from 8mm round as I did not have the size square stock that I wanted and off the shelf square in small sizes often has rounded corners.



J

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #26 on: October 08, 2017, 10:20:39 AM »
Bit of a while since I posted in this thread but as the weather now means it is a bit more comfortable in the shed to crank over engines I thought I would put a bit of fuel into the horizontal and give it a flick of the flywheels. After a lot of flicking and fiddling with the ignitor we have a runner :pinkelephant: all my other static settings of timing, exhaust valve movement etc were Ok just the ignitor and slight adjustments to needle and choke to get it going. I have not got teh governor hooked up as it is one less thing to worry about but as you can see it will coast and then pick up again.

Always nice when an engine fires into life as it shows you must be doing something right :ThumbsUp:


Just needs a lick of paint now.

Offline Ye-Ole Steam Dude

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #27 on: October 08, 2017, 12:05:36 PM »
Beautiful engine, great sound and a really nice project.

Thomas

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #28 on: October 08, 2017, 12:44:49 PM »
Very nice Jason!! I agree, why worry about the governor when you have your finger  ;)

Bill

Online Jo

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Re: Cart Me Off
« Reply #29 on: October 08, 2017, 12:47:46 PM »
Very nice Jason!! I agree, why worry about the governor when you have your finger  ;)

Bill

Its thumbs he normally worries about  ::)

Jo
Usus est optimum magister